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Thread: HOW TO- Sparks Advance Key Installation

  1. #101
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    South Jersey
    Posts
    68
    Originally posted by Dangerous400EX
    When the key is in right the fat part of the key will be flush with the crank. The offset, or narrower, part will be the only part sticking up.

    Make sure the red portion is pointing away from the bike of course.
    My key way must be a little different or there is an error in the Curtis key because I can get this thing all the way down and even and the fat part is into the crank a bit. ???
    2004 Honda 400EX, Renthal Bars, Acerbis Hand guards, K&N Filter, HMF Sport Series Slip-on, modified factory header, 155/42 jets, Curtis Sparks +6 degree Key, Ricochet Skid Plate, ITP rims w/ Holeshots

  2. #102
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Birch Run, MI
    Posts
    56
    You have the Curtis Sparks key and not another brand right?

    The important thing is to have enough of the key sticking up to hold the flywheel in place. If you dont have that you should contact Sparks racing.

    If it "sinks in" a thousandths or two that would not be a big deal, but too much and it could shear off and you would be stranded somewhere
    '07 EX
    not quite stock anymore
    Lexx s/o
    Sparks key
    UNI
    13 tooth sprocket

  3. #103
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Danbury,ct
    Posts
    293
    great write up
    Onto my 7th 400ex won't stop until they are extinct!!

  4. #104
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    South Jersey
    Posts
    68
    Alright I went back out to the barn and tore it apart again. This time armed with Verniers, a depth micrometer, and torque wrench. I took the old key and the Sparks key and measured them with the Vernier calipers and they were dead nuts identical. I then installed the old key and checked the distance from the top of the key to the adjacent surface on the crank. Then I popped it out and installed the Sparks key and took another measurement. It was +/- 0.001" different from stock. I guess the thinner look of the sparks key makes it look like there is less key sticking out of the crank. Then (as directed) I put everything back together and torqued the flywheel bolt to 94 ft-lbs and she is up and running again.

    Moral of the story, make sure the key is seated all the way in the key way and even.

    We're supposed to get some good weather around here tomorrow so I can't wait to go raise a little hell in the woods after work and test this thing out!!

    Thanks again for all the help guys.
    2004 Honda 400EX, Renthal Bars, Acerbis Hand guards, K&N Filter, HMF Sport Series Slip-on, modified factory header, 155/42 jets, Curtis Sparks +6 degree Key, Ricochet Skid Plate, ITP rims w/ Holeshots

  5. #105
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Orange County, Ca.
    Posts
    3,069
    good job,
    I'm confident you'll be pleased, (and maybe even a little impressed), with the results.

    make sure you sit/lean a little farther forward than usual, for your first launch.
    If you've got good traction, the front end may be a bit 'lighter', and will probably stand up a little quicker than you are used to.

    enjoy...

  6. #106
    Guest
    Originally posted by tri5ron
    good job,
    I'm confident you'll be pleased, (and maybe even a little impressed), with the results.

    make sure you sit/lean a little farther forward than usual, for your first launch.
    If you've got good traction, the front end may be a bit 'lighter', and will probably stand up a little quicker than you are used to.

    enjoy...
    Thats exactly what I did followng your instructions through the whole thing. You were spot on. I was sitting on the tank lifting it up

  7. #107
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Orange County, Ca.
    Posts
    3,069
    here's a little shot from last weekend.
    keep a few things in mind while looking at the pic...

    1- I am 180lbs, and sitting on the front tip of the seat, and a 85-90 lbs kid is sitting behind me. (approx. 265 lbs on the seat)

    2- engine wise, it's dang near stock.
    All it's got is, a big gun full exhaust, k&n, lid removed , jetted, and Sparks key.

    Stock bore/compression piston, Stock cam, Stock carb, Stock rev limiter, Stock gearing.

    We are on a hardpack dirt road, and Turf Tamer rear tires.

    No double clutching, No leaning back, No yanking on the bars.
    This is simply a 3rd gear, Roll-on power. No snapping the throttle.

    Yeah, I like the Sparks key alot.


  8. #108
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Chesaning, Mi
    Posts
    334
    great write up, this is what used...now for a quick ?. if you were to do this wrong would it still start and run fine, cause when i did this i didnt feel any change in the least, ran like it always did
    Travis
    1999 Honda 400ex
    LRD Pro 4 full exhaust, 450r shocks, PEP stabilizer, ASV C-5 clutch lever K&N Power lid & filter w/outerwear, Sparks key, Renthal bars, Acerbis handgaurds, DG nerfs n bumper, Rock p brake block-off, Tinner scoops, Dynojet kit...

    2000 400ex, all stock

    Thanks to HERO SIGNS for the PBR
    graphics


    "if carrots got you drunk, rabbits would be f*cked up"

  9. #109
    Guest
    Originally posted by Pabst_Powered
    great write up, this is what used...now for a quick ?. if you were to do this wrong would it still start and run fine, cause when i did this i didnt feel any change in the least, ran like it always did
    i'm guessing you didnt hold the flywheel to the side to advance it and its at stock timing

  10. #110
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Birch Run, MI
    Posts
    56
    Also if you were on the lean side before with your jetting, you would be even leaner now and probably would not see much of a difference
    '07 EX
    not quite stock anymore
    Lexx s/o
    Sparks key
    UNI
    13 tooth sprocket

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