are you guy's just taking off the blade and leaving the shaft?
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Member
choke removal?
are you guy's just taking off the blade and leaving the shaft?
aka sandnut
I pulled the shaft out, too. Just make sure to put that cap back on & secure it (mine had masking tale on it from the dealer) so it doesn't fall off. Throttle response seems much better after removing it.
03 Predator w/ TrailTech X-bars & clamp, WB slip-on, custom K&N intake, Edelbrock carb
06 Raptor, Houser +2 A-arms, LSR +4 axle, FMF PowerBomb Header w/ Two Bros slip on, ProDesign K&N intake kit, TrailTech X-bars, clamp & Vapor computer, PC III USB
#28 AMA Dist. 17
Nope, taking the whole shaft out, so it's smooth sailing all the way in. Just pull it out through the black plastic piece where the lever attaches to, theres a small cap that comes off to do this. Save the cap and put it back on when you're done.
-Kenny
Ride Hard or Don't Ride!
do you have to open the carb up at all? and do you have to re-jet afterwards?
dave
1986 Honda 265R, New 89 motor, ported and polished by East Coast ATV, New Stock Honda clutch/clutch basket, FMF reed cage/ spacer/ and rad valve, 38mm keihn airstriker carb, K&N w/ outerwares, FMF fatty pipe, powercore 2 and Q silencer, Laeger +2 arms, Maier plastics, BAD saddle seat cover, Works triple rate steelers w/ rezzies, MOB aluminum swingarm, Lonestar dualrow bearing carrier, Durablue +2 axle, Durablue adjustable strut, AC Bumper, AC grab bar, AC nerfs, AC chassis skid, Lonestar anti-vibe steering stem, Lonestar handlebar clamp, Renthal bars, Douglas 190's w/ holeshots, Front and rear SS brake lines, Speed easy pull clutch lever, anti-fade locknut, SS bolt kit, Rocky mountain swingarm skid, and some more little goodies!
Football, baseball, soccer, golf, and tennis
all take one ball
Racing takes two!
SN: CrasHing3283
Ride Hard or Don't Ride!
another question, can it be done on a 300ex carb?
dave
1986 Honda 265R, New 89 motor, ported and polished by East Coast ATV, New Stock Honda clutch/clutch basket, FMF reed cage/ spacer/ and rad valve, 38mm keihn airstriker carb, K&N w/ outerwares, FMF fatty pipe, powercore 2 and Q silencer, Laeger +2 arms, Maier plastics, BAD saddle seat cover, Works triple rate steelers w/ rezzies, MOB aluminum swingarm, Lonestar dualrow bearing carrier, Durablue +2 axle, Durablue adjustable strut, AC Bumper, AC grab bar, AC nerfs, AC chassis skid, Lonestar anti-vibe steering stem, Lonestar handlebar clamp, Renthal bars, Douglas 190's w/ holeshots, Front and rear SS brake lines, Speed easy pull clutch lever, anti-fade locknut, SS bolt kit, Rocky mountain swingarm skid, and some more little goodies!
Football, baseball, soccer, golf, and tennis
all take one ball
Racing takes two!
SN: CrasHing3283
#28 AMA Dist. 17
Alright, yes it can be done on a 300EX, I did it on mine. And yes you have to totally take the carb out to do the best job. There are two small screws that hold the choke plate onto the rod, and their ends are flaired so that the screws can never back out of the holes by themselves. When you go to take the screws out, metal shavings get inside of the carb, so you have to take the carb off anyway to clean it out. Also, more than likely, your going to strip the heads on those little screws too because they're made of a soft metal and are very stubborn when they come out, so those metal shavings will also end up inside the carb which you'll have to clean out. Re jetting isn't necessary as long as your running somewhat rich. If you are running on the lean side, I would suggest going up one jet size, just like if you were increasing air flow with a new filter. This is absolutly the best mod I've made to my 300, since it's free, and it adds about 1-1.5 horses throughout the powerband, so I would suggest it to almost anyone who rarely uses their choke. Just pump the throttle a couple times before you start it up to prime the carb, and it will start in almost any conditions. Hope this helps.
-Kenny
#28 AMA Dist. 17
300ex rules- I just re-read your post, and no you don't have to OPEN the carb up at all, its accessable from the outside, but the carb does have to be off the machine. Just thought I'd clear that up.
-Kenny
Ride Hard or Don't Ride!
thanks man. ill do that this weekend
dave
1986 Honda 265R, New 89 motor, ported and polished by East Coast ATV, New Stock Honda clutch/clutch basket, FMF reed cage/ spacer/ and rad valve, 38mm keihn airstriker carb, K&N w/ outerwares, FMF fatty pipe, powercore 2 and Q silencer, Laeger +2 arms, Maier plastics, BAD saddle seat cover, Works triple rate steelers w/ rezzies, MOB aluminum swingarm, Lonestar dualrow bearing carrier, Durablue +2 axle, Durablue adjustable strut, AC Bumper, AC grab bar, AC nerfs, AC chassis skid, Lonestar anti-vibe steering stem, Lonestar handlebar clamp, Renthal bars, Douglas 190's w/ holeshots, Front and rear SS brake lines, Speed easy pull clutch lever, anti-fade locknut, SS bolt kit, Rocky mountain swingarm skid, and some more little goodies!
Football, baseball, soccer, golf, and tennis
all take one ball
Racing takes two!
SN: CrasHing3283
hey yo
No, we are ripping out the entire choke assembly.Originally posted by hippy440
are you guy's just taking off the blade and leaving the shaft?
'00 Budweiser 420SS, XR cam, JE 10.8:1 416 piston, FMF 4Q with Powerbong , AC Pro Pegs, skid & bumper, UniFilter, 6 airbox vents, 42 pilot; 165 main; clip 4 down, chokeless, stock fuel screw position (= 2 1/4 turns out), hydraulic clutch
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