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#28 AMA Dist. 17
VegasEx'r- Thanks, be sure to post what they say on here when you know. I was thinking something along the lines of a silicone sealant, since it sticks to almost anything, and maybe since it's rubbery when it dries, if it ever got into the engine, I don't think it would mess it up at all since it couldn't scratch anything. What do you guys think of this idea, and do you think the rubber could do any harm? Lexal(sp) is the silicone I'm talking about by the way.
-Kenny
hey yo
amazing stuff
Yeah I saw that metal when I removed those little screws on the butterfly. I saw 2 metal spirals from each screw. I was thinkin', would I have seen that if I didn't have to take the carb out? ... Well, the answer is yes, but I was never expecting "SWEDGING".Originally posted by MIKE400EX
GOOD thing you had to take the carb off! The two screws holding the butterfly to the shaft are swedged. When you remove them lots of metal flakes and small pieces fall off. Now they won't go in your engine!
'00 Budweiser 420SS, XR cam, JE 10.8:1 416 piston, FMF 4Q with Powerbong , AC Pro Pegs, skid & bumper, UniFilter, 6 airbox vents, 42 pilot; 165 main; clip 4 down, chokeless, stock fuel screw position (= 2 1/4 turns out), hydraulic clutch
Senior Member
If you take off that black plastic cap and base that used to seal the end of the choke shaft, just put a rubber vacuum cap over the boss on the side of the carb & wire tie it tight. I've seen those stock plastic caps launch when a bike backfired! The other smaller screw hole doesn't have to be capped because it's not a thru hole. At least on mine it's not.
Mods: Big Gun FS w/MM quiet core, no lid , K&N, FCR41, 11.3:1 440 and Web 479 cam, porting, no choke. Works TRS fronts & Ultracross rear shock, a few other goodies
450R,250EX, Blaster, Banshee
hey yo
Take of this boot and loosen the other carb boot attached to the engine. Your carb will now "float around" for easy choke removal.
'00 Budweiser 420SS, XR cam, JE 10.8:1 416 piston, FMF 4Q with Powerbong , AC Pro Pegs, skid & bumper, UniFilter, 6 airbox vents, 42 pilot; 165 main; clip 4 down, chokeless, stock fuel screw position (= 2 1/4 turns out), hydraulic clutch
hey yo
I stripped this soft phillips head screw that attaches the yellow choke lever. This screw should come off first. If you happen to strip it, take out the carb and use a dremel tool with a cut-off bit and make a "regular screwdriver" slot in the screw. It will then come out with ease. Replace the screw and washer into the carb after removing the yellow lever and bracket.
'00 Budweiser 420SS, XR cam, JE 10.8:1 416 piston, FMF 4Q with Powerbong , AC Pro Pegs, skid & bumper, UniFilter, 6 airbox vents, 42 pilot; 165 main; clip 4 down, chokeless, stock fuel screw position (= 2 1/4 turns out), hydraulic clutch
hey yo
I didn't take a pic with the choke in the open position, but I can tell you that it really is big enough to restrict airflow. Remove the 2 screws. Dont postition the carb this way when you do it because 2 metal shavings will fall out on the thread side of those 2 screws.
Last edited by knighttime; 02-28-2002 at 07:48 AM.
'00 Budweiser 420SS, XR cam, JE 10.8:1 416 piston, FMF 4Q with Powerbong , AC Pro Pegs, skid & bumper, UniFilter, 6 airbox vents, 42 pilot; 165 main; clip 4 down, chokeless, stock fuel screw position (= 2 1/4 turns out), hydraulic clutch
C&D Racing, 308-696-7805
After removing the black cap on the choke put a little silicone on there to seal it up to protect and dust or dirt getting into your carb. I would not use JB weld because someday you may wany to put the choke back in it, I did. I hope this helps you guys. And by the way I just bought me a 39mm FCR, I will let you all know what it is like when I get it installed. I kinda wish I hadnt spent the money on it know with all this talk about the stock carb being more than good for the 400ex. OH Well, I will just have to get it port and polished now.
C&D Racing, 308-696-7805
SOLD ---------- SOLD
2001 400ex, JE 416 10.8:1, Hotcams Stage 2 Cam, C&D Racing Port and Polish, Viton Valve seals, 39mm FCR Carb, Complete Curtis Sparks X-6 Exhuast, Sparks Timing Key, Magnum Rev Limiter, Sparks 8 Plate Clutch, Race Cut Fenders with CarbonFiber Hood with Scoop w/ mesh insert, Magura Hydrolic Clutch, Steel braided clutch line, Holeshots MX Rear on Red Labels, Holeshot MX Front on Red Labels, K&N Air Filter with Prefilter, ShockWears, AC Skid Plate, and Polished Propeg Nerfs, TAG X-5 Bars, Kill Switch, DR Blockoff Plate, OMF Radiator Shrouds, Elka Triple Rate SSD, Rear Elka Rebuild, +2 Houser a-arms (HammerTone and Chrome), Lonestar Axcaliber 2 + 2 axle, Polished Motor Mounts and Sidecase, DR number plates, PEP Steering Stabilizer.
C&D Racing, 308-696-7805
hey yo
Remove this clip and the rod that holds the butterfly will slide out of the carb.
'00 Budweiser 420SS, XR cam, JE 10.8:1 416 piston, FMF 4Q with Powerbong , AC Pro Pegs, skid & bumper, UniFilter, 6 airbox vents, 42 pilot; 165 main; clip 4 down, chokeless, stock fuel screw position (= 2 1/4 turns out), hydraulic clutch
hey yo
It's the hole that has the o-ring down from it.
Last edited by knighttime; 02-28-2002 at 08:04 AM.
'00 Budweiser 420SS, XR cam, JE 10.8:1 416 piston, FMF 4Q with Powerbong , AC Pro Pegs, skid & bumper, UniFilter, 6 airbox vents, 42 pilot; 165 main; clip 4 down, chokeless, stock fuel screw position (= 2 1/4 turns out), hydraulic clutch
hey yo
Put something over the hole and use a hose clamp to secure. I was thinking that this hole would be good to use as an entrance for carb cleaner.
'00 Budweiser 420SS, XR cam, JE 10.8:1 416 piston, FMF 4Q with Powerbong , AC Pro Pegs, skid & bumper, UniFilter, 6 airbox vents, 42 pilot; 165 main; clip 4 down, chokeless, stock fuel screw position (= 2 1/4 turns out), hydraulic clutch
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