WOW
Great info John. I run the twin row carrier mainly because of the price I got it for, but to know how particular the Tapered carrier is I'm glad I did opt for the cheaper of the two.
Making a copy of this in the FAQ forum...good info.
Tapered
Double row
WOW
Great info John. I run the twin row carrier mainly because of the price I got it for, but to know how particular the Tapered carrier is I'm glad I did opt for the cheaper of the two.
Making a copy of this in the FAQ forum...good info.
The RAD carrier is very trick how it has the grease zerk on the side. More companies need to do that.
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Very good information. Better yet, the double rows are usually quite a bit cheaper!
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John, I always appreciate your input
I knew about #1 and #2 other than the reason the taperd carrier needs a zerk.
I knew nothing about #3
I have heard that the tapered row carriers are good for flat track racing and TT racing, can you elaborate on this?
Joe
ATVRiders Janitorial Technician
!!!!!DON'T FEED THE TROLLS!!!!!!
That was an expensive carrier!
The only positive thing that I have heard was that they can handle the side load that better TT and flat track racing has. I'm not sure that is the right terminolgy but I think so.
There was a recent thread that brought up the point that automotive hubs have tapered bearings. Maybe it's a case of comparing apples to oranges?
Joe
ATVRiders Janitorial Technician
!!!!!DON'T FEED THE TROLLS!!!!!!
I understad what you're saying for the most part but when you say preload it throws me off. When I hear preload in reference to quads I think of shocks.Originally posted by Jnine
You are probably right about the side load on TT's, and a tapered bearing would handle that very well. You are also correct that all cars and trucks that I am familiar with have tapered bearings at the wheels also, but then again nobody jumps their Buick 70'. However, I can think of 1 big difference. In every other application that I can think of, there is a locking device to keep the preload constant on the tapered bearing. On your car or truck you tighten the bearing together, back it off just a slight amount so it spins freely but has no play, and then lock that position in place with a fine thread nut AND A cotter pin! I think the cotter pin prevents the thing from coming loose.
Can you explain in more laymans terms?
Joe
ATVRiders Janitorial Technician
!!!!!DON'T FEED THE TROLLS!!!!!!
Thanks John and remlapr.....Originally posted by Jnine
Hello again:
Maybe I'm not using the correct term by saying "preload" on the tapered bearing. It is exactly like the side load from a TT race that you are talking about however. With a tapered bearing you have one half that contains all the rollers, and the other half which is the race, and that is tapered to fit inside the rollers. That half forms the little banked track the rollers will run on. When you put the two together, somehow you have to make sure the little banked track doesn't back away from the rollers, or everything will be too loose. Usually there is some sort of threaded collar holding the two together. The trick is to adjust the two together so it is just tight enough to take out any free play. However, if you get them too tight they will actually be hard to turn. In fact, you can tighten them so much they won't turn at all. Anyway, that little bit of pressure that holds the two together I was calling preload.
Hope that explains it a little better. You know, some things are easier to describe in person....
Thats kinda what I thought, just wanted to make sure for myself and the others that read this thread
I'll be sticking with my twin row even if I get into flat track racing
I know what you mean about explaining things in person
Joe
ATVRiders Janitorial Technician
!!!!!DON'T FEED THE TROLLS!!!!!!
My rpm tapered bearings are still good after more then 2 years.
lol...way to lay it out for us john
and now someone please go jump thier dads buick
I have the RAD tapered carrier and absolutely love it. It has held up perfectly for over 6 months of hard use.
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