Ok Ill help out since I need to remeber this stuff!

There is Caster, and Camber.

Camber is the amount of degrees that the tire and wheel is tilted in or out at the top in relation to the bottom of the tire. A tire that is tilted in at the top and out at the bottom is said to have negative camber. The farther it angles out at the bottom the greater the amount of negative camber.

For positive camber the top of the tire is farther out then the bottom. The reason for having camber in your front end is as fallows. An ATV's suspention is forced over in a corner and the suspention flexes. With everything in motion, all this force wants to flex the tire more upright, or reducing the amount of negative camber. As a bike enters a corner, the forces tend to bend everything over, adding positive camber.

Caster is the amount of angle the spindle has in relation to the vertical centerline of the wheel. If the upper ball joint is farther forward than the lower ball joint, it is said to have negative caster. If the upper ball joint is farther back than the lower ball joint it is said to have positive caster. The greater the amount of positive caster, the more stable thw ATV will be at speed. The less positive caster it has the eiser it will steer and the quicker it will turn. As the spindle is laid back, the tire has to lay over more when the front tires are turned. This adds stability. If there is not much angle, the wheel will turn more, making it quicker and easier to turn.


Recomended Caster: Positive

Moto cross 4.5 degrees
Cross country 4.5 degrees
Sand dunning 3-4.5 degrees
Desert racing 6.5 degrees
Recreational 3.5-4.5 degrees


Recomended Caster: Negative

Moto cross 4.5 degrees
Cross country 4.5 degrees
Sand dunning 2-4 degrees
Desert racing 2-4 degrees
Recreational 1-3 degrees

A bike should have about 1/4 inch of toe-in.

I feel helpful tonight. This is LSR setting's. Id think they might be close to stock arms too...I hope this is understandable.