Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 22

Thread: Got back into the game

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    KY
    Posts
    555

    Got back into the game

    So tonight I bought a 400ex after I thought I'd never ride another one., I couldnt pass up the deal, the guy didn't know what he had.he said It's an 05 but it's the old bodystyle has no reverse so... But it has a sparks exhaust lonestar a arms, aftermarket oil cooler, swing arm, Handelbars, axle, braided brake lines, I think powder coated frame, and hiding under some shock covers was a set of custom axis shocks with remote resis... I got a really good deal on it...

    So it was low on oil when I checked it cold. I got like a drop of oil on the dipstick that was pretty fresh but I know the level seems to go up and down on these things with heat. So. I well. I didn't see any leaks or some.

    But a couple of things:

    If this thing needs high octane gas or race gas how do I know??

    And one more question:
    One on of the shocks inside the spring On the "main shaft" I guess you could call it, there are like 2 collars just sitting loose there vibrating when I had the quad running. The ones on the other shock are sitting at the top of the shock. What's the deal with this??

    Did I score good??
    Loud Pipes Save Lives!
    ♪♫♪♫♪♫♪♫♪
    Ill keep my Guns, Money, and Freedom. You can keep the change.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    WI
    Posts
    8,922
    I wouldnt run anything but premium in it, regardless, the only real way to tell is to listen for pinging or take a look at the piston and see what kind it is. if it is aftermarket, it could possibly need 91 or more. anything less than 11:1 you can pretty much run pump gas on unless it is crappy or has ethanol in it.

    the shocks, cant help much there but if they are rubber, they are probably stoppers. they will move and be fine on there, they are only there to absorb the last of the stroke on a hard impact that would bottom it out.

    youll also want to check the oil with it warm, after running it at idle, then shut it off. To check the oil level, the engine must be warm, a cold engine will give an inaccurate reading. Let it idle (without goosing the throttle) for about five minutes. Shut the engine off. After a few minutes, remove the dip stick, wipe it clean, put the dip stick back in, but without screwing in any of the threads, then remove it to show the oil level. The oil level should be between the two marks.

    sounds like you got a good deal on it!

    steve
    2019 Maverick X3 XDS Turbo R
    2003 TRX 400EX
    2016 HONDA RANCHER

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Iowa
    Posts
    657
    Mine has a tad of cackle with anything less than 91. But if I mix a half in with a couple gallons, it goes away. Jetted correct, but seems to run decent per wise on both, maybe more snap but that's it. This is only my experience with premium 90+ and 110 race. I just usually end up with pump gas, easier and runs just as good.
    Hope ya got a title or bill of sale with correct #'s since he thought 05'.
    Either way enjoy, can't beat a built quad on the cheap! Might have to fix a few things, but nothing like was spent to get it where it is!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    ky
    Posts
    1,013
    welcome back. post some pics!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    KY
    Posts
    555
    Quote Originally Posted by 400man View Post
    welcome back. post some pics!


    Loud Pipes Save Lives!
    ♪♫♪♫♪♫♪♫♪
    Ill keep my Guns, Money, and Freedom. You can keep the change.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    KY
    Posts
    555
    I also found a set of hiper beadlocks for $350 planning on buying as well
    Loud Pipes Save Lives!
    ♪♫♪♫♪♫♪♫♪
    Ill keep my Guns, Money, and Freedom. You can keep the change.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    KY
    Posts
    555
    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=2YQ8i5B7jhw




    My gear shifter got loose and now is just loose on the shaft so I can't get out of second I tried tightening it but I think the splines on the shaft are to far gone.

    Would it hurt it I weld it and it I ever need to take it off how hard is that shaft to change that comes out there??
    Loud Pipes Save Lives!
    ♪♫♪♫♪♫♪♫♪
    Ill keep my Guns, Money, and Freedom. You can keep the change.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Iowa
    Posts
    657
    Won't hold very long, friend has been trying for years. It's $600 +/- at a shop he said to replace shaft. You can try and weld it, but the heat you are transferring through the shaft don't help much either.
    Plus the position you need to be in to weld it on correctly with a chance to hold. To each their own on that one. If you bought it right, F it and tack it on as best you can and ride! Good luck either way

    To change it, you have to tear the whole motor down!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    KY
    Posts
    555
    Quote Originally Posted by KKiowaTJ View Post
    Won't hold very long, friend has been trying for years. It's $600 +/- at a shop he said to replace shaft. You can try and weld it, but the heat you are transferring through the shaft don't help much either.
    Plus the position you need to be in to weld it on correctly with a chance to hold. To each their own on that one. If you bought it right, F it and tack it on as best you can and ride! Good luck either way

    To change it, you have to tear the whole motor down!
    Well that sounds like bad news...

    Maybe I can drill and tap the end of that shaft and rig something up..
    Loud Pipes Save Lives!
    ♪♫♪♫♪♫♪♫♪
    Ill keep my Guns, Money, and Freedom. You can keep the change.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Iowa
    Posts
    657
    I'd try a new cheap lever, or take old one and try and cut splines. When I raced decades ago, my dad always took off the shifters, then ground down or cut where the bolt goes into the shifter. This would pinch it even harder, but down fall is a complete snap nub and all. But that's the chance we took.
    If you know a better than average welder, not a farmer, it can be plug welded. How long will it hold? Who knows, but will get ya riding again. Just remember you can't slam gears as much anymore.
    Clean up the shafts splines as good as you can, shifter and make sure a welder can get a good arc, he will know how to keep temp down and a plug weld won't warp as bad.

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •