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Thread: The shoe string project!

  1. #131
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Iowa
    Posts
    657
    I'm starting to think its my new OEM cable! Took it out and aside from it being on its last adjustments both places, it still has enoung slack. It hooked up great with a couple psi in the rears and can now lug/lurch around the yard in 1st just letting the lever out.
    Overall I'm happy and the clutch bites great. No slipping felt or popping out of gear, just hooking hard IMO. I'll see after a day ride.

  2. #132
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Iowa
    Posts
    657
    I got a chance to get over to my suspension guy and talk with him for a bit about what I have and what I want to build. We talked more and we both agreed that what any and all mods are done, Then bring it in for suspension work. That way it can be dialed in on a pro track, Setting ride height and sag etc.

    I want a 'all around' set up, High speed free riding/mx/trails and he showed me a few pic's of others. For a triple rated 450r fronts, New springs, Gold valves etc $600-$800. Seemed kinda steep, But he is a 400 guru and hometown support.
    He also told me that a link is nothing more than an anodized piece of aluminum and that all my concerns can be addressed with internal valves and arc movement throughout the shock cycle. A spring would also aid in a better rear and all around ride also.
    Now, From what I have read on here, The style I ride warrants a mx link. Hes a race tech certified suspension guy with trophy's to prove it. I did ride with him 10+ years ago and if it were not for a paralyzing wreck, He 'might' have been able to qualify with the big boys. He rode both bike and quad, Both netted many pieces of hardware.

    So with his highish prices and the fact many others can do the same, Ill hit up a couple other places and check prices. I 'might' take him up on the rear offer just to see if he is right. If not lesson learned! But for now, Hope to get some seat time before its colder than a well diggers ***!

  3. #133
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    North Carolina
    Posts
    2,158
    Quote Originally Posted by KKiowaTJ View Post
    I got a chance to get over to my suspension guy and talk with him for a bit about what I have and what I want to build. We talked more and we both agreed that what any and all mods are done, Then bring it in for suspension work. That way it can be dialed in on a pro track, Setting ride height and sag etc.

    I want a 'all around' set up, High speed free riding/mx/trails and he showed me a few pic's of others. For a triple rated 450r fronts, New springs, Gold valves etc $600-$800. Seemed kinda steep, But he is a 400 guru and hometown support.
    He also told me that a link is nothing more than an anodized piece of aluminum and that all my concerns can be addressed with internal valves and arc movement throughout the shock cycle. A spring would also aid in a better rear and all around ride also.
    Now, From what I have read on here, The style I ride warrants a mx link. Hes a race tech certified suspension guy with trophy's to prove it. I did ride with him 10+ years ago and if it were not for a paralyzing wreck, He 'might' have been able to qualify with the big boys. He rode both bike and quad, Both netted many pieces of hardware.

    So with his highish prices and the fact many others can do the same, Ill hit up a couple other places and check prices. I 'might' take him up on the rear offer just to see if he is right. If not lesson learned! But for now, Hope to get some seat time before its colder than a well diggers ***!
    Gosh, it is hard to beat a good suspension guy close enough you can just ride over there. That's worth a lot.

    I would see how he stands behind his work... satisfaction guarantee... etc. If that is good, I would go with it. His prices are in line with others and I don't think many are actually doing gold valves (as they are not cheap).

    Anyways, I fear you may be disappointed without a link, especially anywhere off an MX track where you will run 20" tires. So he will have his work cut out for him I believe and you'll want satisfaction....
    '08 Monster Kawasaki KFX450R (black)
    Too many mods

    '99 Sport 400
    Out of a time capsule
    Bone stock, new condition (6/08)

    '00 TRX400EX
    Already a project in progress
    Full Yoshimura Exhaust, UNI filter & jetting
    ITP Holeshot HD rears XC fronts on ITP T-9 Baja wheels
    PRM Desert Bumper, PRM full skid protection, & CDB air scoops
    T.M. Design Powerlip Chain Guide, DG Nerf Bars & Pro Armor FAT Pegs
    Duncan Graphics kit, gripper seat cover & Shock-Pros flame covers
    Pro Taper taperwall bars & Cycra Probend hand guards
    Nac's Racing number plates & headlight covers
    14/38 gearing that was on it

  4. #134
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Iowa
    Posts
    657
    Yeah, Im torn between reading 9/10 happy people with a link and a person who didn't know the difference anyway! Im most likely going to go mx link and go from there, It was part of the original build 'plan'.

    Its great to be able to swing by his place or have him come to a mutual friends track and test/tune. He is race tech certified over and over, He also has many people running his suspensions, More bike than quad, But still good results. I recommended him to many friends, Not one was un happy and are return customers.

    I don't know, Might give him the benefit of the doubt and say 'try' it. If im not happy, Get the link or have it and put it on and fix it. But, or the time being, Stock R's and rear and add parts. Then make the decision, To most likely build around a mx link! LOL

  5. #135
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Posts
    66
    Quote Originally Posted by CJM View Post
    its possible they over tightened the pressure plate bolts (literally hand tight is correct), or put the clutch together wrong.
    pressure plate bolts stop when they're done, they cannot be over tightened. Once they stop turning, that's it, if you try to turn anymore, snappy snap! The only way to know if you over tightened them is by snapping the bolts. They bottom out and they're done, seen it happen to many times when somebody tries to make them tight and they end up snapping off. hand tight just as you said, but they can't be over tightened because once they are hand tight, they are done turning.

  6. #136
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Iowa
    Posts
    657
    Well, After talking to a couple and one more possibly, I think I found the new 'clutch' problem. Last weekend before I roll her, I would shift into gear and it would lunge like a 450r with a jugger spring, Not like a CRF drop in or what my 400 did before.
    Took it apart and everything looked fine and re assembled it. Same thing and I was told my pressure plate is shot and its not un common to go through 2-3 per whole basket replace?

    Would this account for my new OEM stretched cable and no adjustment? I called the company I bought my AOF/cable/etc and they also said PP and that with the combo im running, Almost positive! I hate hanging parts and I know this time ill need a new gasket, But want to make sure it could be the culprit!
    Thanks for any info or pointers

  7. #137
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Posts
    66
    i'm still trying to figure out how you an over tighten a pressure plate bolt, lol.

    I'd say get yourself some oem replacement parts to help find the problem here. if the cable didn't fix it, your springs, clutch, basket, or plate is worn out.

    just make sure once the pressure plates are tight, stop turning....can't overtighten them, if you do, they snap.

  8. #138
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Iowa
    Posts
    657
    Well I got around to fixing her to my extent and so far so good. I replaced everything from the basket, bearings, sealers, inner out PP, clutch lifter arm, spring and seal! Nothing fixed it!

    New cable from another batch. I do have a msr aof perch and lever, but swapped oem and still same. The cable(s) are at their last adjustment! It had a dragging clutch still until I burnt them in a couple times on a ditch/hill.

    Pulls hard, runs good and I'm more than happy with performance so far. But talked go guys who are master techs and 400 gurus and they too, are stumped!
    Oh well, gonna get some seat time and add my arms, axle and all other new parts as I go. Only thing I need is a set of small play tires. More mx than gncc that I have. But getting back into it and loving it more and more.

  9. #139
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Needmore, PA
    Posts
    1,248
    Quote Originally Posted by KKiowaTJ View Post
    Well I got around to fixing her to my extent and so far so good. I replaced everything from the basket, bearings, sealers, inner out PP, clutch lifter arm, spring and seal! Nothing fixed it!

    New cable from another batch. I do have a msr aof perch and lever, but swapped oem and still same. The cable(s) are at their last adjustment! It had a dragging clutch still until I burnt them in a couple times on a ditch/hill.

    Pulls hard, runs good and I'm more than happy with performance so far. But talked go guys who are master techs and 400 gurus and they too, are stumped!
    Oh well, gonna get some seat time and add my arms, axle and all other new parts as I go. Only thing I need is a set of small play tires. More mx than gncc that I have. But getting back into it and loving it more and more.
    Just curious, what's going on with your clutch? Tried scanning this page but I didn't wanna go back and read all the pages. I think you may be having a similar problem like I did when I ran my lockout. Brand new everything. 0 adjustments.
    - 2005 "The Sleeper" 400ex
    - 1984 CR125r Project

  10. #140
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Iowa
    Posts
    657
    Quote Originally Posted by cheater13 View Post
    Just curious, what's going on with your clutch? Tried scanning this page but I didn't wanna go back and read all the pages. I think you may be having a similar problem like I did when I ran my lockout. Brand new everything. 0 adjustments.
    It only has one adjustment really. The cables ends are at very end and lever side a few threads. In all honesty I never looked into the clutch or cable until I was getting neutral drops from fanning the clutch like a two stroke and clutching up in 3/4 gear.
    Started getting neutral drops so I parked it until I could put a new clutch in it. Old looked good but swapped it, then all clutch related parts, and still have no adjustability.
    Low hour machine that I couldn't have tweaked the gear shaft. Honda techs agreed!

    Bad part is, I had to burn them in on a incline so I didn't have a dragging clutch. Every time I'd shift from neutral it would lunge and roll and a PITA and most time just killed it to go back to N. That's when I said F it and went to a hill to burn them in. But when I get a few hours on this, I'll have to buy a new set of friction plates and have X hours until next set of fibers.

    Thrown around the idea of finding and trying a cable 1"+/- shorter eye to eye and see what it nets me. It's running strong now, but for how long I don't know and can't think of any parts or any odd quirks other than clutch adjustment that can fix it! We just threw down $600+ into all new clutch parts and same outcome, don't wanna chance a rebuild now.

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