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Thread: Rear Brake Pads

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Upstate NY
    Posts
    913

    Rear Brake Pads

    I AM IN NEED FOR SOME NEW REAR BRAKE PADS. WHAT KINDS ARE GOOD AND HOW MUCH? ALSO, HOW BAD A JOB IS IT TO CHANGE THEM?
    ~2001 Yellow 400ex, K&N filter with Pre-filter, POLISHED Supertrapp IDS2 silencer, 20" rear Holeshots tires, Braking brake pads, Black Shockers Shockcovers, Renthal 400ex bend bars w/ oury grips, Pro Design tether kill switch, JE 440 big bore 10.5-1 piston, Dyno Jet Stage 2 kit, Removed air box lid, Duncan Racing aluminum nerfs, AC Racing full chassis skid plate, Race cut plastic, AC Racing mudscreen bumper, and a 42 pilot jet and removed choke.
    *SOLD*

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Location
    Uwharrie, NC
    Posts
    1,519
    The front and rear use the exact same pad. I went w/ Vesrah when I changed. Havent tried them out yet but they are $30 a set---it only takes a few minutes to change them---DO NOT pay dealer prices--do them yourself w/ a friend. MB
    96 KX250
    86 Asphalt 330R

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2000
    Location
    va
    Posts
    7,449
    i paid around 25.00 for stock replacement pads from my local dealer. they lasted longer than my EBC organic pads which were the same price.

    they are a piece of cake to change.

    1. remove reservior cap
    2. loosen 2 bolts that hold the pads into caliper
    3. loosen parking brake assembly ALL the way out @ the back of the caliper
    4. remove 2 bolts holding caliper to rotor
    5. remove pads
    6. squeeze piston ALL the way back into caliper with either channel locks or a "C" clamp
    7. replace with new pads

    reverse steps........and leave parking brake assembly loose so as not to prematurely wear out new pads.
    hope this helps
    In memory of Christopher (Chrissy) Riley Andrews / 1-24-02 to 1-23-06
    we love you Chrissy

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    276
    I would suggest that between steps 5 and 6 that you crack the bleeder. Forcing the piston back when brakes are under pressure will force direct fluid back into the system. Also, opening the bleeder will make it easier to push back the cyliner.

    BE SURE TO CLOSE THE BLEEDER BEFORE RELEASING THE PRESSURE ON THE PISTON - AIR IN BRAKES = VERY BAD
    '02 400 EX - Bling, Bling !

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2001
    Location
    Southwestern Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    3,379
    so you are saying that ebc brakes suck....
    Here in Canada the ebcs cost 35$ and 70$ for the honda ones...
    so your saying i should pay almost twice as much for a barke pad if they are the same .....

    Also is the company braking do they make good brakes i read that some pros use them???
    thanks
    400exbro
    07 Honda
    04 Honda

    Timo Nielsen: CMRC ATV Intermediate class #99

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2000
    Location
    va
    Posts
    7,449
    Originally posted by RideRed400EX
    I would suggest that between steps 5 and 6 that you crack the bleeder. Forcing the piston back when brakes are under pressure will force direct fluid back into the system. Also, opening the bleeder will make it easier to push back the cyliner.

    BE SURE TO CLOSE THE BLEEDER BEFORE RELEASING THE PRESSURE ON THE PISTON - AIR IN BRAKES = VERY BAD
    I guess that is another way to do it, however...........there is no need to open the bleeder since in step 1 the reservior cap should have been removed which allows the fluid to go back into the reservior where it belongs.
    In memory of Christopher (Chrissy) Riley Andrews / 1-24-02 to 1-23-06
    we love you Chrissy

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2000
    Location
    Pittsburgh, PA
    Posts
    7,476
    I do my brakes exactly as 3 punks does. Been doing them for years like this...never had to open the bleeder.



    Eric
    Eric

    - '00 400EX
    ...with some stuff.

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