I AM IN NEED FOR SOME NEW REAR BRAKE PADS. WHAT KINDS ARE GOOD AND HOW MUCH? ALSO, HOW BAD A JOB IS IT TO CHANGE THEM?
I AM IN NEED FOR SOME NEW REAR BRAKE PADS. WHAT KINDS ARE GOOD AND HOW MUCH? ALSO, HOW BAD A JOB IS IT TO CHANGE THEM?
~2001 Yellow 400ex, K&N filter with Pre-filter, POLISHED Supertrapp IDS2 silencer, 20" rear Holeshots tires, Braking brake pads, Black Shockers Shockcovers, Renthal 400ex bend bars w/ oury grips, Pro Design tether kill switch, JE 440 big bore 10.5-1 piston, Dyno Jet Stage 2 kit, Removed air box lid, Duncan Racing aluminum nerfs, AC Racing full chassis skid plate, Race cut plastic, AC Racing mudscreen bumper, and a 42 pilot jet and removed choke.
*SOLD*
The front and rear use the exact same pad. I went w/ Vesrah when I changed. Havent tried them out yet but they are $30 a set---it only takes a few minutes to change them---DO NOT pay dealer prices--do them yourself w/ a friend. MB
96 KX250
86 Asphalt 330R
i paid around 25.00 for stock replacement pads from my local dealer. they lasted longer than my EBC organic pads which were the same price.
they are a piece of cake to change.
1. remove reservior cap
2. loosen 2 bolts that hold the pads into caliper
3. loosen parking brake assembly ALL the way out @ the back of the caliper
4. remove 2 bolts holding caliper to rotor
5. remove pads
6. squeeze piston ALL the way back into caliper with either channel locks or a "C" clamp
7. replace with new pads
reverse steps........and leave parking brake assembly loose so as not to prematurely wear out new pads.
hope this helps
In memory of Christopher (Chrissy) Riley Andrews / 1-24-02 to 1-23-06
we love you Chrissy
I would suggest that between steps 5 and 6 that you crack the bleeder. Forcing the piston back when brakes are under pressure will force direct fluid back into the system. Also, opening the bleeder will make it easier to push back the cyliner.
BE SURE TO CLOSE THE BLEEDER BEFORE RELEASING THE PRESSURE ON THE PISTON - AIR IN BRAKES = VERY BAD
'02 400 EX - Bling, Bling !
so you are saying that ebc brakes suck....
Here in Canada the ebcs cost 35$ and 70$ for the honda ones...
so your saying i should pay almost twice as much for a barke pad if they are the same .....
Also is the company braking do they make good brakes i read that some pros use them???
thanks
400exbro
07 Honda
04 Honda
Timo Nielsen: CMRC ATV Intermediate class #99
I guess that is another way to do it, however...........there is no need to open the bleeder since in step 1 the reservior cap should have been removed which allows the fluid to go back into the reservior where it belongs.Originally posted by RideRed400EX
I would suggest that between steps 5 and 6 that you crack the bleeder. Forcing the piston back when brakes are under pressure will force direct fluid back into the system. Also, opening the bleeder will make it easier to push back the cyliner.
BE SURE TO CLOSE THE BLEEDER BEFORE RELEASING THE PRESSURE ON THE PISTON - AIR IN BRAKES = VERY BAD
In memory of Christopher (Chrissy) Riley Andrews / 1-24-02 to 1-23-06
we love you Chrissy
I do my brakes exactly as 3 punks does. Been doing them for years like this...never had to open the bleeder.
Eric
Eric
- '00 400EX
...with some stuff.