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Thread: Killing Batteries

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    south central oklahoma
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    Killing Batteries

    Why is my 300ex killing batteriesThis will be the third in about a year or so. It has a New silinoid, new oem start switch. The toggle switch I use to turn the fire on and off just fell apart and was melted when I was on the trail, and was wondering Y this thing wont do anything. You can't even cross the silinoid and it turn over. The battery is totally dead. I've checked the fuse its good. It will start when pull or pushed started. Any ideas before I start messing with it?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Southeast Louisiana
    Posts
    11
    sounds like a short somewhere. prolly just stating the obvious but electricity will take the path of least resistance especially in a short situation. maybe theres a wire ground out that shouldnt be or another electrical part that went bad somewhere and shorted out. maybe check the amperage rating on that toggle switch. it might not be able to handle the current running through it. im not sure what current (how many amps) that circuit pulls but it might be a start. hope it helps
    2003 300EX K&N/ no air box lid Supertrapp IDS 2 exhaust
    Maxxis Razors 22 front 20 rear
    Dynojet jet kit
    14 front sproket soon to be 36 rear
    Hoping for a FST 330 Big Bore

    Between duck tape, WD-40 and cajun ingenuity anything is fixable!!!!!!!!!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    south central oklahoma
    Posts
    2,665
    I hooked a battery charger to the battery cables, and it will start like normal. Like I said the toggle switch pretty much just fell apart when I touched it. U think the toggle is the problem. Do I need a highter amp toggle or what? Also I checked the wire harness and no bare wires so.....

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Southeast Louisiana
    Posts
    11
    Dude it could be that toggle switch. If It can't handle the current passing through it and inside it melts and then shorts it would stay in the on position all the time cause it's making contact (steadily draining your battery) Then the current would keep flowing, overheat it then destroy it. That's where I would start to check things out especially if you checked the wiring harness and that looked good and there were no other bad wires elsewhere.
    2003 300EX K&N/ no air box lid Supertrapp IDS 2 exhaust
    Maxxis Razors 22 front 20 rear
    Dynojet jet kit
    14 front sproket soon to be 36 rear
    Hoping for a FST 330 Big Bore

    Between duck tape, WD-40 and cajun ingenuity anything is fixable!!!!!!!!!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    south central oklahoma
    Posts
    2,665
    That's what im thinking. I'm gonna try to charge the battery, and get a heavy duty toggle switch.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Southeast Louisiana
    Posts
    11
    Cool deal man keep me posted. I'm anxious to see if that was the problem too.
    2003 300EX K&N/ no air box lid Supertrapp IDS 2 exhaust
    Maxxis Razors 22 front 20 rear
    Dynojet jet kit
    14 front sproket soon to be 36 rear
    Hoping for a FST 330 Big Bore

    Between duck tape, WD-40 and cajun ingenuity anything is fixable!!!!!!!!!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    south central oklahoma
    Posts
    2,665
    Originally posted by Thumper330
    Cool deal man keep me posted. I'm anxious to see if that was the problem too.
    I'll keep ya posted. I tried charging the battery, and man I think it completley drained it like the last few times or so. It will not hold a charge for nothing. Wish I would of kept the receipt it hasn't been long at all since I bought that battery. I've had everstart,motopower and a stock battery, and its killed them all since I started using a toggle. I need a heavy duty toggle I promise ya. I guess I could take the negative cable off the battery after I ride, so its not draining it.

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