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Thread: DDM Tuning 400ex HID how-to

  1. #81
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    4
    whats the point of the two relays? why not just wire one ballast to the "low" wire and the other ballast to the "high" wire. then you have a low/high functionality.

    whats the point of the wire going straight to the battery for highs? is there an advantage there?

  2. #82
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    52
    I don't have much time, so here is the short answer.

    Quote Originally Posted by mfive View Post
    whats the point of the two relays? why not just wire one ballast to the "low" wire and the other ballast to the "high" wire. then you have a low/high functionality.
    If you wire one ballast to high and the other to low then you only ever have one burning. One will burn on high and the other on low. You don't get low/high functionality. You get low/low functionality. If you ever wire the two together then both burn all the time and you get high/high. In order to burn one on low and both on high you need the relays.

    Quote Originally Posted by mfive View Post
    whats the point of the wire going straight to the battery for highs? is there an advantage there?
    It keeps from overloading the factory harness with both burning. Both ballasts together pull more power than the factory harness is designed for.
    2008 700xx - Two Brothers slip-on, K&N, Pro Armor bumper & nerfs, L8ton Racing sway bar, HIDs

    2000 400ex - 440 12.5:1 Wiseco, K&N, LRD full exhaust, HIDs

    2008 RZR - +5 long travel, Afco shocks w/ Progressive springs, Two Brothers slip-on, Two Brothers Juice Box, Donaldson intake, Dynatek ignition

    2007 BMW 335i - Burger Motorsports juice box 3 at 14psi, K&N dual intake

    1994 Mitsubishi GSX - Too much to list. 420awhp, 7.7 @ 96mph 1/8th mile

  3. #83
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    4
    Quote Originally Posted by dsm_racing View Post
    I don't have much time, so here is the short answer.



    If you wire one ballast to high and the other to low then you only ever have one burning. One will burn on high and the other on low. You don't get low/high functionality. You get low/low functionality. If you ever wire the two together then both burn all the time and you get high/high. In order to burn one on low and both on high you need the relays.
    I see what you mean here. Basicallly if you wire one to low and one to high, you always just get one light. That makes sense. I must have been having a blonde moment.

    It keeps from overloading the factory harness with both burning. Both ballasts together pull more power than the factory harness is designed for.
    I see. So just a ring terminal on the battery connection, what guage wire would you run? And then just an inline 20a fuse? I think this sounds the safest from your description.

    Thanks for all your help!

  4. #84
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    4
    Can someone help a brother out and post a pic of their headlight housing? I can't find a good pic from google-searching. I just got my DDM kit in, and I think my headlight housings are missing something (previous owner already had the headlights torn apart, so I'm trying to fix all his f-ups.

    Anyway, see the attached pic. What screws into those two holes in each headlight socket? What do I need to order? Do I need the harness (as in, part #3 at this link: http://www.partzilla.com/parts/searc...7)/parts.html)

    I'm curious what a complete headlight looks like...

    Here's mine:
    IMG_20140323_113748016.jpg

  5. #85
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Wayland, MO
    Posts
    2,316
    Hmmm, that is an interesting pickle you're in there. I think that there is a metal plate that screws over that hole that your bulbs go into, then you turn them to lock them in, but you can't order just that plate because it's part of the housing. I'm not positive though. If I remember I'll look at my other headlight housing I have that is the same style and see what is up.
    2002 Ford Ranger (Red, Westin Brush Guard, K&N CAI, Clearance Lights, couple other little things)
    2012 RAM Power Wagon (Black, Line X, Weathertech, Cover King, Flowmaster, Tinted, DiabloSport Trinity, Rertro Shop Custom Headlights, Leveled)
    2006 450R (MX/Dune/QFMX Machine)
    2005 407EX (XC, GNCC, Harescramble Machine, Not much left that's stock, PICS)

    R.I.P. Caleb Moore, you will not be forgotten.
    R.I.P. Tyler Saxton, I'll never forget you bud.

  6. #86
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    4
    Quote Originally Posted by Stickman400 View Post
    Hmmm, that is an interesting pickle you're in there. I think that there is a metal plate that screws over that hole that your bulbs go into, then you turn them to lock them in, but you can't order just that plate because it's part of the housing. I'm not positive though. If I remember I'll look at my other headlight housing I have that is the same style and see what is up.
    Well crap. Guess I'm going to have to figure something out. What a PITA! Thanks for your help. Much appreciated.

  7. #87
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Monongahela, PA
    Posts
    1,253
    It indeed has a small metal plate that screws in, it's notched out so the light can screw and lock in.
    '02 Banshee


  8. #88
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Needmore, PA
    Posts
    1,248
    I just got some of those Tusk white bulbs for now until I wanna mess with the HID kit.
    - 2005 "The Sleeper" 400ex
    - 1984 CR125r Project

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