Rear Suspension

[cannondale27]

I got some nice Works for the front so thats good but I just couldnt swing a rear shock and stock has way to much damping for my daughter even with different springs.So I am making my own out of a old Viper snowmobile shock.I know I could get dimensions off a buddies Works rear but his kid also cracked the motor using that rear so I have been trying to figure out how to get most travel.

Upstroke is pretty easy and there is some to be gained there with limit in my eyes to point carb to airbox boot gets bent to far.

Downstroke is the one that has me kind of floored.Without looking at stockshock I made the new shock and it came out exactly the same as stock shock.The engine has a rib that hits the right bottom frame with anymore travel down.Now AFTER the engine hits there is alot more travel left.Is it safe to take advantage of this travel after engine touches frame?Has anyone modded the motor or frame to eliminate this contact?Where do the engine/tranny break from jumping?

[LT80]

Thye cases will crack/break at a angle (\) in front of the front sprocket.~~ fixable usually.
They also will break off the rear end mounting plate holes.~~ Scrap cases.

[cannondale27]

Thanks.Since they arent breaking anywhere near the motor frame contact I saw I think I am going to use some of that travel after contact.Its almost like it was designed to use the travel but they didnt because of contact.That wierd link on front of motor isnt doing anything much on downtravel until the engine hits frame then it moves.Still makes me nervous with motor touching frame but will take a look at buddies to see if his does with Works on back.

[cannondale27]

I looked and Works does not allow engine to contact frame just more up travel.Kind of a bummer to me since there sure is alot if allowed to hit.Must have had trouble if they arent doing it though.

[hawaiianbasshed]

wouldn't the spring have to compress alot to allow that much droop? and how much bump would it have with so much pre compression with a body short enough to fit properly and have bump AND droop.. I don't see too much more travel unless moving shock mounts to clear longer shocks I could be off. I didn't go look at it and I'm not the sharpest tool. but usually to make bikes long travel, longer shocks, arms and shock linkages are used? I have a rigged shock on our bike that I bought like this... it doesn't have a clevis mount, the axle bracket is drilled and uses washers and a coupling nut to hold it on a bolt...

its right behind the mount on the motor. I believe I can squeeze a slightly longer shock and a regular style one at that. but I'm just not thinking I wanna spend the money to do it lol.

[hawaiianbasshed]

it's just after 6am here right now lol. the light is from the flash. here's a closer look

[cannondale27]

Springs are easy to deal with as far as travel.The amount of uptravel is limited since you can only fit so long a shaft into the shock body before the shaft bottoms out.I agree not much to be gained at stock mounts but when there is so little every bit counts.I got more than the travel than stock shock and nothing is hitting anywhere.Just have to tweak rebound valving and experiment with springs now.Its not bouncing or bottoming on landings and is actually moving now.May try a bigger shock and relocating mounts like you did if this isnt enough but kid is happy so far.She is only 65lbs so it doesnt take much.Check out hers.Viper sled shock shortened and valved and fox bottle with a homemade clicker I got from a buddy in PA.Thanks for pics of yours.

[cannondale27]

Clicker can be noticed with me on it but I dont think she can tell difference in settings.She just wanted to ride instead of me playing with her shock

[hawaiianbasshed]

NICE

I don't understand shocks enough to build something like that do you have a spring compressor? and how do you pressurize the oil?

I'd like to get a good shock that would have more travel like a stock shock off another bike that would work even. I just want something better but minimum investment lol. I know I'll never get back what I have into it already so I figure why throw more money away... if I can soften it up and get more travel tho my kid would be able to use it more for jumps. currently it's not even realistic to jump it alot imo. yours looks useable

I bet your daughter wants to ride. my son watches me work on it all the time and pretty much just wants to ride it as well lol

[cannondale27]

Yes I am all set up for doing shocks and I have a Lathe and time.Had to learn it since way back I raced a Banshee and nobody could get it right for MX!
I really didnt look at other minis for a shock that would fit.Not sure if any do.I know the guys with predators the rear shock is too soft for most which is opposite the LTR which is way to stiff.I went this route simply because I couldnt afford anything offered and with the way kids grow and learn you are going to have
to constantly be changing settings to try and avoid bottoming and breaking.My kid has one more year on it and then it will get passed to her little sister if she doesnt want to stick with dirtbikes.So the LTR will be in family at least another 5 years.Its worth sticking $ into it for that for sure.I cant recommend any rear shock since all the racers I talked to still have issues eventually.Probably is just something you really have to keep updating since kids keep changing.I wish Fox made a Float shock since that would be easy to make adjustments as kid grew or went bigger would make it worth the cash.