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Thread: ti or stainless valves?

  1. #1
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    ti or stainless valves?

    i have a 2006 yfz and need intake valves. what do you guys recomend which one makes more horse power..

  2. #2
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    I don't know if there's a difference in power between the two. Stainless are a tad bit heavier than Titanium but I'm sure there's no big gain with going with one or the other. The Ti valves are more prone to bend than break and vice versa on the stainless. There have been a couple of guys on this site that have said they've had problems with kibblewhite stainless. Myself, I've always run Ti and probably what I'll continue to run.
    If it'll run... I'm ridin'!!!

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  3. #3
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    i agree with rob im sure theres no big gains but id go with the titaniums just cuz their lighter, maybe a little weaker but lighter
    08 yfz
    Tusk nerf bars, HMF sport series slip on, Modquad airflow system with K&N and Outterwears pre filter, FMF Jet kit, Cam mod, Maxxis Razrs(rear)

  4. #4
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    I would stick with ti. I think you will need new springs with the stainless for maximum performance if they are heavier.
    -04yfz--Sparks/CP/TCS/Lonestar/Hiper/Rath/ect..

    Quad A MX
    Open A TT/ProAm TT

  5. #5
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    so now.. the other question is stock or aftermarket .. the stocks are $100 each do you guys know a better deal? and thanks

  6. #6
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    $100!!! Who told you that? Valves only run $65 per valve.
    If it'll run... I'm ridin'!!!

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    Jhamir "JAM" Scott #320
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  7. #7
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    Originally posted by Ride1Rob
    $100!!! Who told you that? Valves only run $65 per valve.
    $75 for the intake and 90 for the exaust..
    its always the intake valves that go away.. i ran good for 4 years
    so now what about the springs ??

  8. #8
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    Originally posted by florentino
    $75 for the intake and 90 for the exaust..
    its always the intake valves that go away.. i ran good for 4 years
    so now what about the springs ??
    The prices your talking about come out to be $425. Whomever you're getting your parts from, they're ROBBING you lol. The price on valves run $65 for exhaust and alil less for intakes. Here are valve and springs for $300 +change. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamah...Q5fAccessories This is a deal that's hard to beat and where I just got the same setup for a motor I rebuilt a couple months ago .
    If it'll run... I'm ridin'!!!

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  9. #9
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    When my stock valves wore out, I replace them with SS. I did have to get a spring kit which, at the time, would have added up to 5 new Ti valves.

    IMO, SS valves are more durable. SS can be cut where Ti can't. Once the coating on the Ti valve wears off, they are junk.

    Stay away from Kibblewhite valves. Under a microscope, the kibblewhite valves are rough which will chew up seals and guides. I run Ferrera SS valves and, with about 60 hrs on them, I had them touched up on my last rebuild and, just checked them last weekend and, the clearances haven't changed a bit.

    The weight of the valve isn't the concern, its the stiffer spring that you have to run is. It takes more work to push a 40 lbs spring down than a 20 lbs spring.

    According to everyone I've spoke with, the relative "hp" lose is about .5 hp on the peak. As far as I am concerned, that is worth it for the additional reliability.
    Like to thank those that gave me the ability to think for myself and have a sense of individuality.

  10. #10
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    i am going with titenium after all ... now stock or aftermarket?

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