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Thread: 400ex connecting rod removal

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Ft Myers, Florida
    Posts
    38

    Arrow 400ex connecting rod removal

    How do I remove the rod from the crank?? the bearing is being stubborn too.. thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    98
    The Connecting rod is a pain in the butt to remove. Most ppl will just take it to the honda shop or local atv shop and have them press it out plus they have all the correct tools. To get the bearing off you need to have a bearing puller. If it doesnt come easy try heating it up but not too hot. then you have to heat up the connecting rod pin really hot and press it out with a hydraulic press. Its much easier to just bring it to the honda shop.. hope this helped
    2005 TRX 450R Just bought it. FMF pipe ICE tires and nerfs looking for some A Arms.

    1995 Dodge 2500 Cummins 12 Valve 6" Stack with pump turned up #0 fuel plate and a billet trans. 560 hp 870 ftlbs or torque

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Ft Myers, Florida
    Posts
    38
    The local shop wanted $170 to install the new rod. I paid $120 for the rod itself. So $290 total! Thats just nuts. I just bought a rotating assembly instead, for cheaper.. thanks for the info.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Ft Myers, Florida
    Posts
    38
    Anybody know where to get heavy duty valve spring at a decent price? or maybe you have some used heavy duty ones laying around.. let me know, thanks

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    98
    try dennis kirk or rocky mountain they both have pretty cheap springs i had some heavy duty ones but there on the quad that i sold. try those places you might just have to spend some money
    2005 TRX 450R Just bought it. FMF pipe ICE tires and nerfs looking for some A Arms.

    1995 Dodge 2500 Cummins 12 Valve 6" Stack with pump turned up #0 fuel plate and a billet trans. 560 hp 870 ftlbs or torque

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Ft Myers, Florida
    Posts
    38
    Hey thanks. Just trying to save a buck is all. already up to $600 on my build, rebuild. Just getting it running has turned into go fast rebuild

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    paragould, Ar
    Posts
    513
    theres a reason why the shop wants 170 to put a rod on. Its a pain the *** job. Once you push the rod pin off with a press you have to press the new one on and use indicators to "true" the crank halves within .001" of an inch or so.
    1995 Blaster. Bored .040" , midrange ported, head rechambered, pro series reeds, FMF fatty/Dg silencer, lightened flywheel, +4 timing, Hydro brakes, Lonestar +2 a-arms, Works dual rate G-series shocks, +2 swingarm,. More to come

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