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Thread: Lightening Flywheel

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Sandusky OH
    Posts
    811

    Lightening Flywheel

    I understand the pros and cons of a lighter flywheel. I have a fair amount of bottom end for still having stock gearing, so I'm not afraid to lose a touch and possibly have to fan the clutch a bit more.

    What I'm asking is WHERE the material is removed from and how much is taken off when our flywheels are lightened. I got my lathe up and running, and even though I don't have much tooling yet, setting up to turn a little material off my 'wheel would be a very easy task.

    Thanks!
    1989 TRX250R "Red"...Mildly built with the usual goodies.

    2005 SkiDoo Mach Z 1000; wicked!

    1997 Ford F350 4x4 Off Road single axle, 460v8 manual tranny, 25,000original miles

    1994 Robalo 2520 Center Console; twin 200 Mercury outboards

    Past toys have been:

    1996 Ski-Doo MachZ 780 85% Stock and still FAST
    1993 Trophy 20' Center Console boat 175hp Mercury Outboard
    1995 F150 4x4- 393 EFI/roller stroker, 4.10 posi both ends, built E40D
    2001 400ex with the usual goodies
    2005 Kawasaki ZX10R- stupid fast
    2003 Honda CBR600RR
    1991 Suzuki RMX250
    1991 Suzuki DR250S
    1989 Honda CR125
    1987 XR600 "Miss Piggy."
    198? Suzuki DS80

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    508
    I don't know if it's a good idea to do it yourself.
    When it's done by someone like Ricky Stator, it's balanced during the process. If you don't get it perfectly balanced you could cause some damage.
    TRX330r (Parted Out)

    06' LTR450 (Stolen!!!).......R.I.P.

    06' CBR600RR (SOLD)

    TRX250R - The classic, the legend, the icon, the BEAST!!......the reason ATV's are where they are today.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Sandusky OH
    Posts
    811
    I can definitely understand the importance of balancing and centrifugal forces at high rpm's. However, if chucked properly in a lathe, and indicated with a tenths/micron test indicator along the bore and then face, it should run concentric with the bore and perpindicular to the face, making it pretty damn close, wouldn't you think?
    1989 TRX250R "Red"...Mildly built with the usual goodies.

    2005 SkiDoo Mach Z 1000; wicked!

    1997 Ford F350 4x4 Off Road single axle, 460v8 manual tranny, 25,000original miles

    1994 Robalo 2520 Center Console; twin 200 Mercury outboards

    Past toys have been:

    1996 Ski-Doo MachZ 780 85% Stock and still FAST
    1993 Trophy 20' Center Console boat 175hp Mercury Outboard
    1995 F150 4x4- 393 EFI/roller stroker, 4.10 posi both ends, built E40D
    2001 400ex with the usual goodies
    2005 Kawasaki ZX10R- stupid fast
    2003 Honda CBR600RR
    1991 Suzuki RMX250
    1991 Suzuki DR250S
    1989 Honda CR125
    1987 XR600 "Miss Piggy."
    198? Suzuki DS80

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Kansas
    Posts
    3,023
    hell remember the genius that did it with a air grinder? lol you will be fine. You remove the metal on both sides of the pick up tab. NOT very much. I may be able to dig up a pic later if needed.
    Caution! Post Whore!
    Kansas B Class Motocross Racer
    Long Live the 250r!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Boise, ID
    Posts
    840
    Yes, if you are cutting grooves in the flywheel, then it is easy to make them symmetrical. If you are adding lightening HOLES, that is different, and it must be balanced.

    I have not seen too many 250R flywheels as of yet, buut I have seen a LOT of Cannondale flywheels. they were balanced from the factory, and have divets drilled into them at certain locations along the flywheels edge, in order to balance them.

    I wonder how well the original 250R flywheels were balanced, considering I haven't noticed any balancing holes or weights on them.

    I am running a CR250 flywheel now, and did not notice any balancing indicators on it either.....

    My cannondale crankshafts, counterbalancers, and flywheels were balanced as a system by an outside source. In stock form I have dynamic balancing sheets that show 350+ pounds of rotational force out of balance, then when balanced it was down to 13 pounds. That was on ONE side of the crank, the other side was different, but it balanced to 13 pounds. The piston weight was accounted for too, to ensure everything was in balance. After that was done the engine was the SMOOTHEST 4 stroke I have ever ridden. No vibrations anywhere.

    I would imagine we would need to balance our cranks, counterbalancers, and flywheels as a system too, for perfection.

    James
    1995 Titled Laeger Narrow Pro-Trax w/ 1991 CR5000 Linkage / All Stainless Hardware / Custom Axis Shocks / LSR Axle / Baldwin Anti-Fade / 265CC Mildly Ported National / Port Matched V-Force3 Reed Cage / 39mm PWK / No-Toil Air Filter / Custom Filter Bracket / ESR CR250 Ignition / Sparks MX Pipe / ESR Silencer / IMS 4G Tank Line-X'd / AC Bumper, Grab Bar, Pro-Peg Nerfs, Skidplate / Tag Metals Clamp / T2 Cannondale Bend Bars (Sandblasted) / TRX450R Front Brake Master / ODI Lock On Grips / 300EX Throttle

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Kansas
    Posts
    1,433
    we cut our own flywheels on my buddies lathe. he sends his off to be balanced. i dont. niether of us have had any problems after running them long term. my engines are set up high RPM. he takes off a little bit of weight. i cut mine down so much you would think i am mad. neither of us have any extra vibration.

    the 2 sides of the story. a heavier flywheel makes the engine spin up more slowly making it more manageable. also it spins down more slowly making it harder to stall.

    BUT

    a lighter flywheel spins up and down more freely. freeing up more power. giving you more torque down low and more over all power through out the band. the reason it SEEMS easier to stall is that you are not use to it and the new quickness of the engine. also i like that it is easier to engine break.

    to me the lighter the flywheel the better, it allows you to more precisely control the ENGINE instead of having to use other devices to help minimize the effects of having to controll the engine. (breaks for when its spinning to fast and clutch for when its not spinning enough.)

    counter to what most people say, a lighter flywheel will cause you to clutch LESS because the engine will be able to ppull itself up into power easier then when its fighting the weight of the flywheel.

    hope all that made sense.

    (NOTE: factory balanced flywheels are still not balanced worth a crap. the more weight you take off the more unbalanced mass you are getting rid of. why balance a chunk of rotatating mass when you can just get rid of it)
    God is not here today.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Kansas
    Posts
    3,023
    hey i have prolly asked this a million times, but where are you from in kansas?
    Caution! Post Whore!
    Kansas B Class Motocross Racer
    Long Live the 250r!

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