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Thread: Rear Axle Removal Problem

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Pennsylvania
    Posts
    27

    did'ya get 'er????

    Waiting to hear back.............................

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Elkhart Lake, WI
    Posts
    12

    Dang thing won't budge

    Nope, worked on it for about 6 hrs on Saturday and it still won't budge. I noticed the little bit of movement I get out of it transfers through to the other side which leads me to believe that movement is the play in the carrier bearings and that the shaft is seized in the splines and not the c-clip.

    Since the inner joint was shot anyways we drilled a 1/2 hole the long way through the end of the joint so we could get some penetrating oil in from the back side of the joint by the c-clip. This of course was after several hours of monkeying with it including heating it up with a torch, letting it cool, and repeating the process to try to get it to move.

    We have it soaking now and rotating the joint 180 degrees every day and applying more penetrating oil. We'll try again this weekend, I'm sure I'll get it because if it doesn’t budge I plan to drill a 1-1/2 inch hole through the joint and taking the rest of it out in pieces.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    SW AR
    Posts
    17
    Get a pry bar between the cup and the diff and apply pressure outward while you tap the opposite side of the cup w/ a hammer which will break the c clip loose and then it will come out.
    05 POPO 800
    29.5 Outlaws, MSA Torks, Aaen Mega Power, K&N, 3000LB Warn, Gorilla Prop-Shaft, HL Rear Springs, Ranger Front Springs, RDC Bar Ends, RDC Rear Lift, El-Cheapo Front Lift, Heel Clicker, Turners Up Front

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Pennsylvania
    Posts
    27
    I feel for ya, man. Mine was the same way. Gotta be careful using heat. I'm sure you need new seals now!!!

    I know I had at least 3 hours one night and then another 2 or three the next night. Just don't say die. It will come eventually.

    Just remember to try and keep the joint even while prying. The more of an angle you have while prying, the harder it will be.

    You will be amazed at just how much rust is really in there when it does come. I wish I was closer. I'd love to come help.

    Also, if you are using Oxy-Acetylene heat, you gotta hit that thing while HOT. Once it cools, the steel contracts again.

    You may want to take the "womanly" approach also. Sometimes a nice light touch is needed just when you think you have to manhandle it.

    Keep at her!

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Elkhart Lake, WI
    Posts
    12

    FINALLY

    OK, after another week of spraying, rotating, and letting it sit, the axle shaft finally loosed up enough that it came out with the slide hammer. It was definitely seized in the splines. Not much rust around the c-clip. Thanks guys for all the help.

    Rick

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Pennsylvania
    Posts
    27
    Glad you made it!

    STRESS: That confusion created when ones mind overrides the body's natural desire to choke the living $hit out of some a-hole who desperately needs it...

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Bay City,MI.
    Posts
    45

    Re: FINALLY

    Originally posted by ricdawg
    OK, after another week of spraying, rotating, and letting it sit, the axle shaft finally loosed up enough that it came out with the slide hammer. It was definitely seized in the splines. Not much rust around the c-clip. Thanks guys for all the help.

    Rick
    If the spines were seized up there is rust under the clips. I couldn't get the axle to go back in because the rust under the clips. once i cleaned the area under the clips it went right in., So i would still pull the clips off and clean that area to.
    Keep your front wheels in the air.

    1986 Suzuki 250 LT
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    2004 Polaris Sportsman 4x4 700 Twin

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Elkhart Lake, WI
    Posts
    12
    Nope there was no rust under the c-clip because I removed it to inspect as I wanted to figure out exactly why it was so hard to remove the cv joint. I suspected lots of rust too but this was weird, only lots of rust on the splines.

    Once the penetrating oil worked its way down the splines the joint loosened up and had some side play where as to it popped out just like it was suppose to.

    Anywho the reason why I had to remove it was to replace the axle shaft as the inner joint had exploded on me. Lubed the new splines and the splines in the carrier up with some anti seize and slide it back together.

    Thanks again guys for all the tips.
    Rick

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