Synthetic 5w40
Synthetic 5w40
2007 Outlaw 525 (#315Q) AC Racing Blackline ProPeg nerfs, Wilson Racing suspension, Precision steering stabilizer, Flexx Bars 15*, Rath Racing anti vib mounts, Rath Racing MX grab bar w/supports, Oury, Pit Posse Outlaw shifter, Vapor computer, JD Jet kit, big O-ring, YFZ throttle mod, Pro design filter, CT Racing full exhaust, RAZR 2, for sand-20x10x10 Edge on Douglas .160.
2007 Predator 500 LE
350 Raptor, 2008 250 Raptor, 2006 Jetmoto 150, 50 Raptor
2007 Outlaw 90(#384M) 2008 Class A 14 and under state champion
2006 Predator 90 (#705M) 10 and under 2nd place in state
Synthetic 5w40
2008 Outlaw IRS
Jd Jet Kit
Fasst Flexx Bars
Precision Steering Stabilizer
Pure Polaris Nerf Bars
Pure Polaris Heel Guards
Boss DLR Roller Bearings
Powermadd Handguards
G-Force rear spacers
ProTaper Pillow Grips
K&N Air Filter
YFZ Throttle Spring
For now...
So Rotella 5w-40 synthetic should be my choice?
Change your oil OFTEN and you will never have any problem..I always change oil before a race and after a hard day trail riding..I use the Wal_mart oil Rotella, oil changes often are a cheap way of protecting your investment!
I use Cross Power 4T, Full Synthetic, 10w-40 in my 525irs. It is expensive, but I would rather spend a little more on my oil and not have major expensive motor problems.
I dont have a 525... yet... but i have had a few issues with oils im my built 400 ex, mainly with the act>evo oil, made by castrol, it worked GR8 in my wr400, worked really gr8 in my quad when stock, i could go on several weekend rides and change it and it had no burning, no clutch issues nothing at all, even ran the stock clutch for 3 years riding hard, even after mildly modding the quad it was fine.
did the full teardown, piston still spec'd out like a machine with 10 hours on it, cam was the same thing, even the clutch plates.
so, after the engine was turned into a 461, then went to a 15% stronger clutch, and getting all the bugs worked out and tuned in properly, first run up the hill, was ok, second run, clutch slipped from 3rd to 4th majorly, had to let off throttle to get it to grab, then by that time i lost enough forward momentum to slow...
im sry, turning a short story into a book.
so anyways, i replaced the clutch again, the clutch i took out still spec'd out fine, no wear yet, but slipped like hell under a load at about 7k rpm.
called castrol, they told me that that oil was not designed for use in my quad, so i may see issues with it.
wtf?
thats all i could say to the castrol tech guy. i bought an expensive oil that works gr8 in everything else, except my built quad.
i used i think motorex (i think, it was blueish/greenish jug, was like about 20/gallon)when i changed the clutch again, and that clutch at least lasted a few rides. it is slipping again, but not as bad, only if i shift under full throttle.
soo, i say if it works for you, then do it, just you cant be mad at someone else if you have issues, once the warranty is up, its all on you anyways.
i am also confused about what oil to use? i was afraid to use ps4 because of the rumors years back about polaris having transmission problems with the 500 fuji motor. so i've been useing castrol actevo 20w-50 4t (meaning clutch & trans. additive) but i was told by polaris headquarters in minn. that the ps4 was a straight 0-20w . nobody sells a straight 0-20w except mobil 1 and the price is 179.89 for 6 qt. they just releast this product recently. but does it have teflon in it like the ps4 and clutch & trans additive. buy the way my polaris dealer told me that ps4 was made buy the same company that packages mobil 1 but thats here say? i think my next oil change is going to be mobil 1 20w-50w v-twin harley oil with clutch& trans. additive! we pound our machines they need the best protection!
I'M WITH YOU GUYS THIS TOPIC HAS BEEN ON MY MIND FOR THE LAST COUPLE MONTHS. I RUN ROTELLA T IN MY 05 DURAMAX AND MY1993 KABOTA 2 CYL. LAWN TRACTOR. MY FATHER INLAW IS ON HIS SIXTH JOHN DEERE TRACTOR! SINCE I BOUGHT MY TRACTOR 15 YRS. AGO I'VE RUN SCHELL OIL ALL THOSE YEARS. I WENT ON A FORUM TODAY CALLED THUMPER TALK THEY CLAIM NOFRICTION ADDITIVES IN OIL WITCH RUINS WET CLUTCHES AND WEARS TRANS. I'M DEFINITLY SWITCHING TO 5W-40 SYN. NOW THAT MY OUTLAW HAS BEEN BROKE IN WITH ACTEVO 20-50 CASTROL 4T I'M READY FOR STRAIGHT SYNTH.
Amsoil 0w-40 4stroke Power Sports Synthetic Motor Oil. It has a picture of a 4wheeler and a snowmobile on the bottle. I use it in all my quads and it has been good. No problems with anything. Just use it and change it regularly and quit worrying about it. I have also run the cheapest Walmart oil I could find without any issues, but I just don't feel good about doing it, so I use the expensive stuff. I don't care what you use, just change it often.
Future champion.
if your talkin like the newer deere's, they are junk, so go figure, esp like teh l series lolOriginally posted by holeshotoutlaw5
I'M WITH YOU GUYS THIS TOPIC HAS BEEN ON MY MIND FOR THE LAST COUPLE MONTHS. I RUN ROTELLA T IN MY 05 DURAMAX AND MY1993 KABOTA 2 CYL. LAWN TRACTOR. MY FATHER INLAW IS ON HIS SIXTH JOHN DEERE TRACTOR! SINCE I BOUGHT MY TRACTOR 15 YRS. AGO I'VE RUN SCHELL OIL ALL THOSE YEARS. I WENT ON A FORUM TODAY CALLED THUMPER TALK THEY CLAIM NOFRICTION ADDITIVES IN OIL WITCH RUINS WET CLUTCHES AND WEARS TRANS. I'M DEFINITLY SWITCHING TO 5W-40 SYN. NOW THAT MY OUTLAW HAS BEEN BROKE IN WITH ACTEVO 20-50 CASTROL 4T I'M READY FOR STRAIGHT SYNTH.
l means laugh out loud as you are on your way out... the l series is cheapo deere.
anywho, the breakin peroid is better to use normal oil, if you break in using a really good oil, then switch to a crappy oil, you may have issues from going from a good super slick oil to a not as slick oil.
i have seen odd engine issues, many of them... and honestly, break in on whatever is in it, then run what you want, dont run a good expensive oil then think wtfever oil is oil...
and the durajap has like tons of oil vs quad and bike engines man.
what is straight synth oil?
the synthetic is the base... thats about it... everything else is additives. i have also never heard of schell oil lol... jk just punning there...
and im not saying that rotella is crap oil, just getting humor from this.
01 400ex... built...
bored to 89mm, stroked +4mm, heat coated and anti friction coated piston, eichner 440 carb, +1mm valves, ported polished, shortened guides, diff ignition, cam, also cryo'd trans and head and rockers, perma-cool oil cooler, scoops, re-geared, white brother pro meg system, K&N filter... tried to drill lid and install uni vent filters... it sucks them right out of the lid lol
everything you can really do to the engine