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Thread: Newb clutch install question

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
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    Chi town burbs, IL
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    Question Newb clutch install question

    Getting ready to replace my clutch in my quad....i've never done a clutch before in my life.

    Question for those experienced with this:
    Should I scuff the the new OEM Honda steel plates with sandpaper prior to installing them? If so, what grit paper should I use?

    I only ask because my Honda service manual makes no mention of it
    00' 400EX - GT Thunder 450 stroker, custom JE 12.5:1 piston,
    +7mm stroked crank, HD stroker rod, HRC cam, GTT full race porting, +1mm intake valves, FCR 39 carb, CRF timing chain, Denso IXG27 iridium plug, full Hinson 8 plate clutch, Desert Toyz Supercooler w/ SPAL fan, UM airbox w/ UNI, CT Hi-Output exhaust, Roll LOBO II F/R, LT PEP 8 click ZPS piggyback fronts, PEP ZPS rear, YFZ brakes/450R master, CCP stabilizer, Hiper Tech beadlocks, Durablue X-33, TAG, Quadtech, ASV, AC, IMS, RAD, Works Connection, Galfer..

    05' Kawasaki KLX 110 - Fast 50's springs F/R, HRC cradle, Rox risers, FLY fatbars, NGK CR6HIX iridium plug, Twin Air filter

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
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    Haughton, LA
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    1,511
    i did mine with scoth brite just to take the glaze off.
    01' 440EX stroker - +4mm crank 11.5:1 JE piston, stage 3 cam, lightened flywheel, ported by Thumper Racing, +1mm intake valves, 39mm fcr carb, HD studs, 8 plate clutch, Sparks X-6, Houser, Elka ZPS front shocks, Gt Thunder rear shock with mx linkage, Lonestar axle & +1 swinger, TAG bars, AC bumper and propegs, RAD tapered carrier

  3. #3
    bjg696 is offline Ride-to-Live_Live-to-Ride
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    Abbeville, SC
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    I did mine with a 1000 grit sand paper. It works very well, just like drew said, do it just enough to knock the glaze off. Just be carfull and watch how it all comes apart and itll take a total of 30 to 45 min and youll be done....
    05 440ex, Wiesco(12.5:1) compression piston, Hotrods Crank,
    Port and Polish heads, shaved head, hot cams stage 2 & CDI, 450R carb, K&N filter, Intake Spacer, Titanium 1mm bigger valves, HMF exhaust, AMR monster coil, Digital Dipstick, Pro Armor Fat Peg Nerfs, ITP Baja wheels, spal 4" fan, UM air scoops, LSR blockoff plate, 450r rear conversion, HID headlight kit, tinted tailight, Kenda Klaw tires,FLY bars with FOX crossbar pad, billet accesories....etc

    New Owner of:
    2007 YFZ450SE
    +2 Stem
    Pro Taper bars
    ITP holeshots
    Blingstar Grab bar
    AC Blackline Nerfs

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
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    Chi town burbs, IL
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    Ok, thanks for the replies

    Now as for the clutch springs.....I have searched and searched on this without a decisive answer. I know you just have to "snug" up the bolts on the springs, but that's still a little vague to me.

    Do I just tighten the bolts until they bottom out and then stop?

    or

    Do I tighten the bolts until they bottom out and then slightly "snug" them?

    or

    Do I stop tightening BEFORE the bolts bottom out?

    Help a guy out with no experience here. I just need to get an idea from those who have done this many times.
    00' 400EX - GT Thunder 450 stroker, custom JE 12.5:1 piston,
    +7mm stroked crank, HD stroker rod, HRC cam, GTT full race porting, +1mm intake valves, FCR 39 carb, CRF timing chain, Denso IXG27 iridium plug, full Hinson 8 plate clutch, Desert Toyz Supercooler w/ SPAL fan, UM airbox w/ UNI, CT Hi-Output exhaust, Roll LOBO II F/R, LT PEP 8 click ZPS piggyback fronts, PEP ZPS rear, YFZ brakes/450R master, CCP stabilizer, Hiper Tech beadlocks, Durablue X-33, TAG, Quadtech, ASV, AC, IMS, RAD, Works Connection, Galfer..

    05' Kawasaki KLX 110 - Fast 50's springs F/R, HRC cradle, Rox risers, FLY fatbars, NGK CR6HIX iridium plug, Twin Air filter

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
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    Goldendale, WA, USA
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    2,352
    Be sure to soak the fibers in oil. IMO there is no need to scuff the steels, just install them as is.

    Tighten the bolts in a criss cross pattern in several steps until they stop, then snug them up.
    2000-440ex Stroker--Fan Cooled

    Houser +1 A-Arms, Elka Triple rates, Laegers +1 1/4 Swingarm, G-Force Axle w/Durablue Anti-Fade Locknut, 14/36 Gearing, DID X-Ring Chain, C&D Revalved Rear, Maier Silver Plastic, Steel Grey PCed Frame, SPAL Fan, AC Bumper, Pro Armour Footpeg Extensions, Renthal Bars, Yoshimura Full Exhaust, 450R Carb w/ZR's Adaptor, K&N w/o Lid, Powroll 440 Stroker w/stg 3 HC, P&P Head, HD rod, GT Thunder HD Studs, and Timing chain, AMR Monster Coil, 4 Degree Advance Key and a 12oz lighter flywheel. Now at 12.5:1 Compression!

    450R Front brake upgrade using 06-up Spindles and 07' hubs.

    450R Rear Brake Upgrade

    Kenda Knarly XC Radial 21x11x9 Rear Tires

    Shorai Lithium Iron Battery

    Running E85--Jetting: 70 pilot, 240 main, HRC needle on bottom notch and shimmed.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Ohio 43050
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    762
    I think the actual torque spec is 7-8 ft lbs
    2008 LT-R450 #97 ....ATV FourPlay stem w/ softbars,PC5 w/autotune, Uni filter, EHS air box lid, Pro Design intake, PRM control series front bumper, ATV FourPlay Aarms -1 1/16", Fox Podium X DSC, Fox Float Evols, Rath racing nerfs w/heel guards, One Industries graphics, HEP rear number plate, BRM number plates, Suzuki carbon fiber frame guards, ProDesign teather, CCP steering stabilizer, QuadTech beak, alum. elec. guard, Acerbis Uniko handguards, Fuel parking brake blockoff , Youshimura start button, throttle body block off nut, PRM frame skid, Suzuki .250" disc guard, GT Thunder dual sprocket guard, Guard Dog sprocket guard cleaner, milled LT-Z400 rear hubs, HiPer beadlocks w/ Razr 2s all around

    Certified Suzuki Technician

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Tavistock, Ontario, Canada
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    17
    The repair manual just says to tighten them.
    I havent done mine yet so I cant tell you the bolt size, but general torque specs for a 6mm bolt is 88in-# and an 8mm is 16ft-#.
    They do not need to be overtight, stay on the light side.

    BTW 88in-# = 7.3ft-#
    99 Scrambler 500
    02 400EX (sold)
    89 Warrior (FS)

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
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    Chi town burbs, IL
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    Thanks a lot for everyone's hints and tips
    00' 400EX - GT Thunder 450 stroker, custom JE 12.5:1 piston,
    +7mm stroked crank, HD stroker rod, HRC cam, GTT full race porting, +1mm intake valves, FCR 39 carb, CRF timing chain, Denso IXG27 iridium plug, full Hinson 8 plate clutch, Desert Toyz Supercooler w/ SPAL fan, UM airbox w/ UNI, CT Hi-Output exhaust, Roll LOBO II F/R, LT PEP 8 click ZPS piggyback fronts, PEP ZPS rear, YFZ brakes/450R master, CCP stabilizer, Hiper Tech beadlocks, Durablue X-33, TAG, Quadtech, ASV, AC, IMS, RAD, Works Connection, Galfer..

    05' Kawasaki KLX 110 - Fast 50's springs F/R, HRC cradle, Rox risers, FLY fatbars, NGK CR6HIX iridium plug, Twin Air filter

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    WI
    Posts
    8,922
    If you end up using after market springs or anything be careful. I know they are alot stiffer. I used the tusk hd ones that came with my clutch plates and kept tightening them until snug and snapped the head off one of the bolts. I had all the rest good to go and pow the last one broke from the forces on the rest adding to that one also along with turning it. I had to loosen them up a tad after that. Good luck, Steve
    2019 Maverick X3 XDS Turbo R
    2003 TRX 400EX
    2016 HONDA RANCHER

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Chi town burbs, IL
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    Yeah I got it all done with no mishaps

    The springs were no big deal at all, I just tightened until they bottomed out, then slightly snugged them with a 1/4" ratchet like you guys said.

    The hardest part was actually getting the front cover off...nobody ever mentions that part! lol
    I got all the bolts out and started tapping the cover with a rubber mallet and pulling on it as hard as I could but the thing wouldn't budge! I about gave into exhaustion when I noticed a small tab on the corner of the cover behind the rear brake cylinder. I got a huge flat blade screwdriver and started prying against the swingarm and the tab. I tried and tried, and again nearly gave up. I gave it one last go and the cover finally let loose with a loud "pop".

    Scraping the old gasket off the cover was also a huge PITA I'll probably try to reuse the old gasket next time. Also had to take my right side motor mount off in order to move one of my oil pipes out of the way. That was due to my aftermarket oil cooler with its huge inflexible oil lines

    Good learning experience though, i'm sure next time will go a lot easier after learning some things the hard way the first time

    In the middle of it

    00' 400EX - GT Thunder 450 stroker, custom JE 12.5:1 piston,
    +7mm stroked crank, HD stroker rod, HRC cam, GTT full race porting, +1mm intake valves, FCR 39 carb, CRF timing chain, Denso IXG27 iridium plug, full Hinson 8 plate clutch, Desert Toyz Supercooler w/ SPAL fan, UM airbox w/ UNI, CT Hi-Output exhaust, Roll LOBO II F/R, LT PEP 8 click ZPS piggyback fronts, PEP ZPS rear, YFZ brakes/450R master, CCP stabilizer, Hiper Tech beadlocks, Durablue X-33, TAG, Quadtech, ASV, AC, IMS, RAD, Works Connection, Galfer..

    05' Kawasaki KLX 110 - Fast 50's springs F/R, HRC cradle, Rox risers, FLY fatbars, NGK CR6HIX iridium plug, Twin Air filter

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