eton wont start need help

[JAG Motosports]

Originally posted by neveready
I am sorry I tried to help!!!! I don't know why I try, everytime I do someone has something they think is so much better. You say stator or coil is your"GUESS". As was my post, and I have been around several of these motors, so I felt it was an educated one. I have never had a fresh motor read that low?? We all are just here to try to help one another, not to try to prove each other wrong. I will stay out of the thread!!!!!!

Well said my sentiments exactly. Happened to me just yesterday. The whole forum is 99% educated guess. It's a mini quad thang.

[dericsdad]

WOW! I am only trying to help as well. No personal proving issues here...

The Polaris and Eton Mini atv's never had as much compression as the DRR and Apex atv's now come with stock.

I am only posting what I know, hoping it helps. Sorry if it looked differently the way I typed it.

With out personally ohming out the stator and coil, as per the link I attached, I can only "guess" that that is what is wrong, based on all of the info. given.

I have never owned a DRR or Apex, so I honestly don't know stock what the compression is for them.

Having just purchased this quad, he may not know if it is still stock... but bottom line is you were correct in that 100 psi with a "good" strong spark should be enough for it to start.

[etondaddy]

With a 100psi your going to have to kick it to start it......if it's going to start.......

Check the stator.......... like this......

Posted by: markvette

Tests to try if you have no spark or if your charging system is bad.

Preliminary test >>> This will not work on the Polaris and may not work on the Viper. If You Have either Proceed to the Stator test listed below.

1. Locate the CDI and unplug the connector for the black wire with the white stripe (or white wire with black stripe).
Test for spark. If no spark, leave it unpluged and proceed with test.

2. On the CDI, unplug the red wire with white stripe (could also be white wire with red stripe) AND the Black wire with white stripe (could be white wire with black stripe).

3. Locate the wires that come from the stator on the engine (right front top of engine. This harness is about 10" long can covered with a black tubing).
Connect the CDI red wire with white stripe (could also be white wire with red stripe) directly to the matching stator wire. Connect the CDI Black wire with white stripe (could be white wire with black stripe) directly to the stator wire.

Test for spark.

If no spark, you have a problem with the CDI, Stator or COIL. You have eliminated the AVT wire harness as the cause.


The stator tests as follows:

1. YOU MUST USE A DIGITAL OHM METER!!!
2. On the stator the ohm reading between the red wire with white stripe (could also be white wire with red stripe) AND the Black wire with white stripe (could be white wire with black stripe) should be about 1284 ohms for the ETON style (3 bolt fan) stators and 689 ohms for the Kasea, LRX and DRR (4 bolt fan) stators.
3. The red wire with white stripe (could also be white wire with red stripe) to ground should be about 447 ohms for the ETON style (3 bolt fan) stators and 112.7 ohms for the Kasea, LRX and DRR (4 bolt fan) stators.
4. The Black wire with white stripe (could be white wire with black stripe) to ground should be about 837 ohms for the ETON style (3 bolt fan) stators and 576 ohms for the Kasea, LRX and DRR (4 bolt fan) stators.
5. From the plastic connector with the three wires, confirm that the black lead has 0 resistance between the lead and the frame of the atv. That is the ground lead. Any noted resistance in the ground system means the ground is BAD. We recommend always adding a wire between the engine and the frame for a better ground.

NOTE That the total ohms for #3 and #4 are the same as the ohms in #2. That is because we but the resistance of the two coils in series and added the ohms.

IF YOU DO NOT GET THESE READINGS your stator is BAD.

COILS:

1. There are two resistances in coils. Eton vs. Kasea.
2. The Eton should measure about 9.24k ohms checking between the high voltage lead (no boot) and the coil ground.
3. The Eton coil should also read about .5 ohms between the coil input and coil ground. Kasea reads about .3 ohms. Don't switch them because you can burn out your CDI and stator.

Your typical plug cap is a resistor cap and it should read about 5k ohms. A great replacement cap is the NGK TB05EMA.

If your stator, coil and engine kill wiring tests OK, you simply need a new CDI. I will not list out CDI test procedures since you have concluded your CDI is bad and because if you test the CDI improperly, you will damage the unit.


If you want to check the charging feature of the stator:

(We assume that you have confirmed that the in-line fuse near the battery is good and that your battery is in good shape.)
1. Locate the 3 wire plastic plug from the stator. One wire is the black ground and the other two are the charging system.
2. The Orange wire with red stripe to ground should read about .4 ~ .5 ohms on the Eton and the same on the Kasea style.
3. The White wire to ground should read about .5 ohms on the Eton and .3 ~.5 on the Kasea style.

NOTE: You cannot interchange the Eton for the Kasea stator without the matching flywheel and there are two crank tapers that you will find. The Kasea style has a substantially higher voltage output for lighting.

For those who prefer pictures Spike has spent several hours putting together very detailed graphics for your use. Click the links for some excellent detailed pictures

[Bill Lemans]

Comp is good and spark is good......by gauge for the comp and visual for the spark.Pull your reed cage out of the case and make sure they aren't dirty or held open by dirt.One sign can be a spray/mist of gas hangin' out in the mouth of the carb intake when you turn it over.Pull the filter if you haven't already. I have had that happen on several ocassions.

I would still test your stator output and ohms since you only have a visual on the spark and a definate on the comp.If your getting strong spark the cdi is doing most of it's job. My only other thought would be the pulse generator(timing) signal either not getting to the cdi , or the cdi not functioning properly in that aspect.I don't know the internal working of the signals, but I would think that if you are getting spark, the cdi IS telling it when to spark.I'm sure someone here knows....

Here's a link that will be handy on the testing if you have a meter.If you don't, spend the 20.00 and kep your hair !!
http://www.exriders.com/vbb/showthre...stator+testing

Read the links and although it's says polaris it's quite close to the eton values I get. Concentrate on checking the primary(big coil)and even check the resistance across the coil pack itself, not just the wires coming out.

I fel your pain and only offer up the things I have experienced in the last few machines i owned.

[Bill Lemans]

DOh !! etondaddy ,you beat me to it

I like that testing better, but couldn't find it. Will save it now.

[etondaddy]

Originally posted by Bill Lemans
DOh !! etondaddy ,you beat me to it

I like that testing better, but couldn't find it. Will save it now.

I used to have one printed and hanging in the trailer.....then I gave it to someone and never printed another one. That's one nice paper to have.

Mike Kozura

[vislaguy]

first off thanks for everyones input its all welcome,if it wasnt for this site I would be spending a fortune at the shop. bill, I do have this fog and mist coming back from the carb and the fog comes from a hole that is beside the throat. I have only used the electric start on all this what would be the difrence in kicking it over??? Ive been around my share of motors and the spark looks really strong I could swap a coil and check the stator I just dont feel thats it .so what would be with the carb fog or spray??? it seems the thing would run as is just maybe run rough but to not grab at all kills me??

[etondaddy]

Not sure why kicking it works but it does.......when Kyle's stock 50 would not start with the starter it would start with the kick starter. I believe you get a stronger turn over. Like when a kid trys to start it and then you kick it and it starts.

Mike Kozura

[Bill Lemans]

[i]so what would be with the carb fog or spray??? it seems the thing would run as is just maybe run rough but to not grab at all kills me?? [/B]

This can happen from a reed sticking open and the crankcase pressure forces it back out. Sometimes they will run , sometimes they won't.Clean the reeds and put them back on. What's the plug looking like ? Dry ? Wet? Oily ? Where is the plug arc going to ? Is it fouled by a cracked porcelain perhaps ? Try a new plug.

Far as the kickstarter goes, my thought is leverage is more than the force of that tiny little starter gear.

By the way, when it was my stator, i was VERY comfortable with how my spark looked.......I hope we're wrong cause it's about 70.00 for a new one.

[ewathen]

is it a manual or auto choke? I have a 50 that wouldnt start for anything with and auto choke. Replaced it with the manual choke and it has started on the first try everytime since.

Eric