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Thread: Front brakes

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
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    Central NJ
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    Front brakes

    00 400ex, pretty much stock.

    I tried to bleed them to no avail, still the lever has ALOT of travel, they dont really grab at all. I broke the bleeders and pumped like a car, topped it off too. I even gravity bled to be sure.

    Now, I aint ever really known how to look at brakes and say they are bad, but imho there isnt much left on the pads. How much material should there be?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
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    Haughton, LA
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    Re: Front brakes

    If I remember correctly, there is close to 1/4" or a little less of pad.

    Originally posted by CJM
    00 400ex, pretty much stock.

    I tried to bleed them to no avail, still the lever has ALOT of travel, they dont really grab at all. I broke the bleeders and pumped like a car, topped it off too. I even gravity bled to be sure.

    Now, I aint ever really known how to look at brakes and say they are bad, but imho there isnt much left on the pads. How much material should there be?
    01' 440EX stroker - +4mm crank 11.5:1 JE piston, stage 3 cam, lightened flywheel, ported by Thumper Racing, +1mm intake valves, 39mm fcr carb, HD studs, 8 plate clutch, Sparks X-6, Houser, Elka ZPS front shocks, Gt Thunder rear shock with mx linkage, Lonestar axle & +1 swinger, TAG bars, AC bumper and propegs, RAD tapered carrier

  3. #3
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    Okay then, I think I need pads since imho there is way less than 1/4".

    There is also some kinda indicator thign with an arrow on the caliper and this metal strip that touches it?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    chula vista, california
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    607
    try this....... tie the brake lever over night as tight as you can......... either zip tie it or whatever you can use to secure the lever as tight against the bars as possible. come next morning undo the tie and you should have full pressure built in the system and the bubbles or whatever air will essentially move to the area with lower pressure. do this and your brakes will be rock hard if all else is good.

    if you think your pads are about done then change em and rebleed the system.

    when you bleed the system, you can usually bleed it in parts. you can first crack it at the master, then at the junction, then at each brake line banjo bolt, then the bleeder on the caliper. keep a close eye on each break and look for the air bubbles. you'll slowly see air bubbles work their way out untill straight fluid starts to seep. thats how i did mine and they are rock hard responsive.
    02' 400ex

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  5. #5
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    Thanks, ill try the lever method, then pads anyways later.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Indiana
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    340
    I spent around an hour and half, just pumping my lever, then bleeding them. Of course with the help of my brother. It takes forever, just like a car. Switch your hands :P
    01 400ex mostly stock

    05 CRF450R, I like R better than EX

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Maryville, TN
    Posts
    85
    I just went through this after starting with a dry system. Tried mity-vac, regular bleeding, back bleeding the lines by cracking open the banjos, strapping the lever down for several hours, etc.

    What worked was to back bleed the master cylinder. There must have been some air trapped in there. I attached a syringe to one of the caliper bleed screws and slowly pushed fluid up to the master cylinder reservoir. That did it, brakes are firm again.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2006
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    Stixville, Ms
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    that lil trick will work every time.
    250R's...... "they gots bite wiff dat bark !!!" R's are fo sand bars.....

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  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
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    Originally posted by richards
    ...I attached a syringe to one of the caliper bleed screws and slowly pushed fluid up to the master cylinder reservoir.
    did you have a rubber hose between the syringe and the bleed screw then or what?
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  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Maryville, TN
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    Originally posted by bbender85
    did you have a rubber hose between the syringe and the bleed screw then or what?
    Yes, a clear hose from the syringe to the bleed screw. Attach the hose to the syringe and suck some brake fluid out of a bottle. Then get all the air out of the syringe and hose by holding it vertical and pushing all the air out. Squeeze the end of the hose so no air gets in and attach it to the bleed screw.

    I get large (60ml) syringes cheap from the local farm place - Tractor Supply. No needle attached, just a big plastic syringe.

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