How To Remove your Bearing Carrier

[Pappy]

Removing your bearing carrier is something everyone should know or be able to do, as these bearings require service atleast once a season.

You will need a few simple tools to get the job done:

1 Large pipe wrench or an adjustable wrench that will open to 2 1/4 inches.
1 pair of Snap-Ring Pliers
I flat blade screw driver
24 mm 1/2 drive socket and ratchet for removing the wheel hubs(Size will depend on your model)
Pliers
2 new cotter pins
Allen head of varying sizes depeninding on the brand of atv


Before lifting the the atv off the ground, you will want to loosen the axle lock nut and wheel hub nuts as they require some substantial force. Leaving the machine on the ground so that you can use the rear brake to hold things still is a huge help.

Place the large pipe wrench/adjustable wrench on the inner axle lock nut and apply pressure downward. These large nuts are reversed threaded and usually confuse people who have never done this work. A friend to help hold the rear brake sure helps and make sure you have the machine in gear to also help hold the axle in place via the chain.

Once you have the axle lock nut and jam nut loosened slightly, remove the two cotter pins and axle nuts before proceeding.

[Pappy]

With the axle jam nut and lock nut loosened, you will see the axle clip retainer as the two nuts are threaded towards the swing arm.

Once everything is loosened, you can now loosen the 2 or 4 bolts that hold the bearing carrier firmly in the swing arm. Rotate the carrier to loosen the chain at this time.

[Pappy]

The clip can be removed with the flatblade screwdriver by applying some pressure to remove it from it's groove in the axle

[Pappy]

Remove the two rear brake caliper mounting bolts and swing caliper out of the way.

Now you can slide off the axle nuts and brake stay and rotor

Remove the bearing carrier retaining c-clip using the snap ring pliers, or in a pinch a pair of needle nose pliers will work if the tips are small enough to fit into the holes. (Snap ring pliers work best)

[Pappy]

Remove the c-clip and brake stay

Now you can remove the chain from the sprocket and slide the axle out, and remove the bearing carrier.

Thats it, your axle is now out and the carrier can be replaced or is now ready for your inspection.

When reassembling, it will be benficial to have someone actually sit on the machine and hold the rear brake as you tighten the axle lock and jam nuts and the hub nuts. The stock axle nuts on Honda machines are notorious for loosening once removed for the first time, and aftermarket units are available at a fair price that have set screws to keep them tight. You can even modify your stock nut but thats another article!

[interceptorz28]

Perfect instructions man! Just what I was looking for.

[quad handler]

Originally posted by interceptorz28
Perfect instructions man! Just what I was looking for.

Your exactly right, excelent right up. Only thing on mine has a 27 mm axle nut, 24's are on the front. Thanks Pappy..

[alberto]

Pappy,


This is what I was looking for. I just recently broke the bearing carrier on my sons 01 tring to adjust the chain after install in 13 tooth front sproket. My question to you is do you recommend replacing this part with an OEM or an aftermarket? There are tons of choices our there.

[Pappy]

Double edged sword of an answer

The stock carriers last along time for most folks if all they do is general riding. They are cheap on ebay and in the classifieds on most atv forums.

Aftermarket are stronger, the housing itself doesnt usualy break like the cast aluminum oem units, but bearing life is about the same.

Just ask yourself what type of riding you do the most. If your carrier from an 01 just failed, you might just throw back in a take out unit bought for a few bucks off ebay!

[alberto]

We are recreational riders. Mostly dunes. I think I will save a few bucks and shop OEM! Thanks for the heads up.