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Thread: HOW TO- Sparks Advance Key Installation

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Orange County, Ca.
    Posts
    3,069

    HOW TO- Sparks Advance Key Installation

    OK Guys,
    A few have asked for these, so here's my pics for the Sparks key install.

    You will not need to drain the oil, if you put the left side tires up on about 6" boards. (this will also make it eaiser to work on).

    Also you will not need to use an Impact gun/wrench providing you have a Large Adjustable Wrench, (24" is good), a Medium Adjustable Wrench, (18" is good), a Long Breaker bar, (24" is good), and a good Torque Wrench.

    Remember to have your replacement side cover gasket BEFORE you start. it is Honda part number, 11395-KCY-671

    (note- captions for pics will be BELOW the pic)
    so lets get going here....

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    Sparks Timing Advance Key with Flywheel Puller Bolt



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    with your bike lifted up about 6" on the left side, you will not need to drain the oil, and it makes it eaiser to remove the starter cover bolts, and the Left Side Cover bolts.
    (yes you need to remove the starter cover, gear, and spacer )



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    remove the neutral switch wire. (it just pulls straight off)



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    Remove the Shifter Lever, Side Case bolts, and Starter Cover bolts



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    Gently remove Started Cover, Gear, Spacer, and Shaft.
    (If you are gentle, and with a little luck, the gasket should be ok)



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    Now GENTLY Tap the Side Cover Case with a Soft Blow Mallet to break the seal, and pull the Side Cover STRAIGHT back.
    Remember that there is a o-ring seal around the starter shaft housing, and you must remove the Side Case straight without trying to wiggle it too much.
    Now remove any gasket material from the Side Case.



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    Now place a Large Adjustable Wrench on the 2 flats of the flywheel. Make sure to get the wrench as tight as possible on the flats to prevent it from slipping off.



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    If you use a 24" Adjustable Wrench, it will conviently reach, and rest on the front spindle, allowing for a solid contact surface



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    Next place socket and LONG breaker bar on the Flywheel bolt, and you can easily remove the bolt, without the need for a Impact gun, and chancing damage to the bolt or Crankshaft.



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    Remove bolt and washer



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    put the puller bolt into the Flywheel.



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    Swap sides with the Large Adjustable Wrench, and remember to get it as snug as possible on the Flywheel.
    Find a convienent point for the handle of the Wrench to rest.
    (my spot was on the nerf bar), yours may be the footpeg.

    Now use you Medium Adjustable Wrench on the Puller bolt, and carefully TIGHTEN the bolt, into the Flywheel, until it pops loose.
    (sorry I dont have a pic of this, but I only have two hands, and was doing this all alone)



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    Flywheel removed.
    Now clean off any gasket material from the Engine case.



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    Using a small screwdriver, and tap hammer, remove the stock Woodruff key.
    take your time and dont damage the keyslot.



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    these 2 pics show the difference between the Stock key, and the Sparks Advance key.
    (this is how far you will be turning the Flywheel to the left).
    This applies to the "single notch" type keys only.

    Note- if you recieved one of the keys that is the "offset type", you will not need to hold the Flywheel to the left when tightening the flywheel back on.



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    Now install the Sparks Advance key into the slot, with the red side facing AWAY from the Engine.

    Make sure to get it COMPLETLY seated into the slot so that the "notch" is COMPLETLY flush with the surface of the Crankshaft.

    This is eaisly accomplished using a small, flat tipped, drift punch, and small tap hammer.

    (Be careful not to damage the edge of the key, OR the edge of the keyslot)



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    Now carefully replace the Flywheel, aligning the Flywheel keyway, with the Sparks Advance key.

    Rotate the Flywheel forward to touch the backside of the Sparks key, and slide the Flywheel onto the Crankshaft until it stops.

    next, replace the stock Flywheel bolt finger tight.



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    Put the Large Adjustable Wrench back onto the flats of the Flywheel, and find a solid place to rest the wrench handle.

    Using a Torque Wrence set to 94 ft/lbs, tighten the Flywheel bolt.
    (this method will insure that you a keeping the Flywheel "turned to the left").



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    install new Side Case gasket.



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    Honda Side Case gasket part number



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    Re-install Side Cover, being careful to slide it over the O-Ring Seal on the Starter Shaft Housing.



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    replace the Side Case bolts,(and 1 nut), back in their original positions, finger tight.

    (If you use a piece of cardboard before you started, and draw a picture of the sidecase and bolt positions,... then it is easy to insure they all go back in their original positions).



    Photobucket
    OK, Now we are going to re-install the Starter gears.
    I tried to put the gear shaft first, then slide the gear on.

    This did not work too well due to the Starter Gear meshes with the Starter Shaft FIRST, and makes it a little difficult to get the Starter Gear to mesh with the Flywheel gear....

    SOooo,...
    To make it a little eaiser, do it this way.

    Put the Starter Ge ar in FIRST. this will make it much eaiser to get the Starter Gear meshed with BOTH the Starter Shaft, AND the Flywheel Gear together.



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    Starter Gear in, and meshed with both the Starter Shaft, and the Flywheel Gear.



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    Next, Slide the Shaft through the Starter Gear , and into the Side Case Cover.



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    Shaft in place.



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    Next, Place Shaft Spacer onto Shaft.


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    Spacer in place on Shaft.



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    And now replace Starter Cover.



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    Now replace remaining bolts, Neutral Wire Clip, 1 Case nut.
    Tighten all bolts, and 1 nut to 7 ft/lbs ., Replace Neutral Switch Wire to it's connector,
    Reinstall Shifter lever, (re-align the dots on the Shifter Lever, and the shaft).

    Now, turn key, push Starter button, get your Helmet, (I don't think I need to tell ya how to put that on...LOL!), give the throttle a couple of quick snaps,
    and start Bangin' some gears!

    (Little tip here, You might want to sit/lean a little more forward than usual for your first Launch !)

  2. #2
    Guest
    awesome write up man! its better than the 1 they had before in the article section.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    301
    STICKY!!


    Much better right up...
    ur bike is definitely in better shape..my gaskets wouldnt come off for crap..i spent atleast an hour tryin to get all of the gasket pieces off..
    i really wouldnt be surprised if i end up with a leak..
    also my starter cover gasket has to be replaced as well..it was garbage when i took the cover off..

    anyway great right up..and should be a sticky..definitely better then the article..

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    UP Michigan
    Posts
    117
    Wow thats a really good detailed instructions on how to do this! good job, should help me alot when i get my key on tuesday!
    07 400ex - Black
    Pro taper se
    Powermadd hand guards
    E-brake block off
    Uni air filter
    Outerwears prefilter
    OMF air scoops
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    Candy red HMF slip on
    11:1 wiseco piston
    stg 2 hotcam

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    658
    Great walkthrough! Very well done!
    WWW.STUNTCOCK.NET
    “PROJECT BLACK” 2004 Honda 450R
    Pro Armor, DASA, Quadtech, GPR, Kenda, Galfer, Fox Shox, OMF, Fasst Co. Team RPM, Sidewinder, Walsh, ARC, PWR and GoForItGraphics

    ATVRiders.com June 2008 "Quad of the Month" Open Class

    myspace.com/stuntcocknet

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Orange County, Ca.
    Posts
    3,069
    Thanks for the compliments,
    (It was alot of work for a guy who can only type with 3 or 4
    fingers!!!)

    I just hope it might help anyone wanting to do this mod.

    If I have left anything out, or need to change anything, just let me know, and I will edit it.

    Ride hard, and keep the rubber side down...

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    301
    maybe u should just edit in a warning...not everyones will be this easy..haha
    people like me with bad luck will have difficulty with installation..

    Tri we can trade if u want..u do my atv work..ill type everything up for u? i type 100-150wpm ..deal? haha

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Orange County, Ca.
    Posts
    3,069
    DementeD,
    You got a deal !
    Go ahead and type up everything I'm thinkin' for me ! Haha!
    So did you get yours in yet?

    I'm going out for the weekend with some friends on the 16th thru 18th of this month.
    I cant wait to see how the new shocks and advance key perform...

    Lets see,... Good friends and family, Quad riding, Landsailing, cookin' BBQ, Beer, throwin' horseshoes, beer, making smores with the munchkins, watchin' the stars in the telescope, beer, playing checkers by the campfire, beer, eatin' hobo pies, beer, a good cigar, and, oh yeah,... some beer.

    Nah, It dosent sound like any fun at all...
    Maybe we should just stay home and do some work instead.

  9. #9
    Guest
    I have a question. Does this change when the actual timing mark comes arund to the window. For adjusting valves will this make it so the "T" mark isnt where the actual "T" is when adjusting the valves? If so how much of a difference is it?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    301
    Originally posted by tri5ron
    DementeD,
    You got a deal !
    Go ahead and type up everything I'm thinkin' for me ! Haha!
    So did you get yours in yet?

    I'm going out for the weekend with some friends on the 16th thru 18th of this month.
    I cant wait to see how the new shocks and advance key perform...

    Lets see,... Good friends and family, Quad riding, Landsailing, cookin' BBQ, Beer, throwin' horseshoes, beer, making smores with the munchkins, watchin' the stars in the telescope, beer, playing checkers by the campfire, beer, eatin' hobo pies, beer, a good cigar, and, oh yeah,... some beer.

    Nah, It dosent sound like any fun at all...
    Maybe we should just stay home and do some work instead.
    i got it in..but i need the starter cover gasket which i havent been able to fine cheap..the dealership would take 5 days..plus i ahve to go down there pay for it..they order it..then come back to get it...waste of gas

    so i looked online found it for 2 bucks..but shippin is 10 one place 13 another..so i guess its up to..whats cheaper? gas or shipping? haha probably shipping

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