Outlaw 525 oil

[eerhard09]

Originally posted by SSJEFF
predatorowners

oops, I let it slip.

Bad SSJEFF, BAD!

[ojcool]

Originally posted by Evasiveone
The PS4 Polaris oil is 0w-50. The PS4 plus Polaris oil is actually a 2w-50 oil.

Rotella is wet clutch safe. It meets the JASO certification. The 5w-40 synthetic has to much ash in it though to fully qualify. But since our quads are not running emmision systems in them no biggie.

"We recently ran the JASO MA friction test on Rotella T with Triple
Protection 15W-40, Rotella T Synthetic 5W-40 (CI-4) and our soon to be
introduced (within the next 2 months) Rotella T Synthetic 5W-40 CJ-4.
All three oils passed the wet clutch friction test. Rotella T Synthetic
5W-40 (CI-4) has more than 1.2% ash (JASO MA spec limit) so it can not
be classified as JASO MA. However, Rotella T with Triple Protection
15W-40 and our soon to be introduced Rotella T Synthetic 5W-40 CJ-4 do
meet JASO MA."

If you have any additional questions please call us at 800-231-6950.
Thank you for your interest in Shell products.

Richard Moore
Staff Engineer
Shell Global Solutions (US) Inc.
Westhollow Technology Center, PO Box 4327, Houston, TX 77210, United
States of America "

One of the most recent of 100's of discussions on Rotella T in a bike/quad engine on that site.

This is an interesting comparison of popular oils. Synthetic and conventional.

VI-Viscosity Index (the higher the number the better)

Flash- The temp the oil will vaporize considered "thermal breakdown"

Pour- 5 degrees F above the point where a chilled oil shows no movement at the surface for 5 seconds when inclined.

%Ash- the amount of residue left behind when an oil breaks down thermally i.e. burns off = sludge

%zinc- zinc is added to prevent scuffing and wear when their is actual metal to metal contact. .11% is enough for normal use. More Zinc does not improve protecting but extends protection during metal to metal contact.

NOTE: I had to remove the chart with the oils because it just won't display properly. Here is the lind to the article.

Link to Oil article



What I gleaned from this article is that higher differential oils i.e. 10w 40 (30 point viscosity spread) require the use of "polymers" to keep the oil thick enough at operation. These Polymers are molecules (that do not lubricate) that; "wind up" when cold to thin the oil; and "unwind" at temperature to thicken the oil. Since they have no lubricant properties themselves the use of them to improve "viscosity index" is a bad thing. It's in essence chemically tricking the oil into being something it's not. The less, or in some cases, non use of these polymers (amsoil) means that you have a higher quality base oil, which is ideal.

So looking at this chart the Rotella does not seem to be all that good of a selection. With only a 146 viscosity index and a flash point of 410 degrees I'm thinking a better choice could be made, however those values are from their 15w 40.

Riddle me this......The thing that is fundamentally confusing about all this is that I have always been told that a thinner oil has a lower viscosity value. i.e. 5w is thinner than 10w, and a thicker oil has a higher number, 50 is thicker than 40. This does not jive with my understanding of physics. How can the oil be thinner at the colder temperature? I suppose it is through the use of "polymers" however, Amsoil apparently does not use polymers in many of their oils. How are they achieving this viscosity "magic"? I would expect the oil to get thinner at a higher temperature, not thicker.

Regardless, the 0w 50 viscosity oil that Polaris recommends has a 50 point viscosity differential. That I am being told is bad, too much reliance on polymers to maintain viscosity at operating temperature. Apparently the reason polymers are bad is the fact that through use they are "sheared" into smaller pieces in the high pressure areas of the engine and eventually do not preform their function over time. So the oil begins to effectively "thin" over time and provide less protection. I am concerned about using an oil in place of this 0w 50 grade because should I replace it with a 20w 50 grade oil would the increased viscosity at low temperature cause increased wear due to slow pumping? I guess at this point I am stuck with the polaris oil. I wonder what KTM recommends.....

[Outlaw 50]

You are not going to find an oil with a higher shear factor than a diesel oil anywhere. Besides the oil will be changed long before it is even an issue because of the clutch .

[LT250_JOE]

Too much debate for me. I just find a comparable oil to what the factory recommends. Stick with the same brand and blend. Change it regularly and have no problems. I personally dont leave oil in my quad long enough to begin getting dirty.

[LT250_JOE]

Originally posted by SSJEFF
predatorowners

oops, I let it slip.

Good job....Now the MAN is going to delete the whole thread!!!

oh yeah also on ktmtalk.com (now youre causing me to slip)

[SSJEFF]

I am happy that the 525 takes lees oil than the 500, that is savings right there. I will probably try the Rotela. I have no problems finding nuetral after adjusting the clutch handle and breaking it in.

[ojcool]

Yeah, neutral is actually pretty easy to find on this bike. The Banshee is the hardest one i have found. Even with a modified shift star it's tough.

I guess I'll try the Rotella as well. Got one more oil change worth of PS Plus in the garage though.

[spanky101]

how much oil does the 450 and 525 take oil wise?

[SSJEFF]

My dealer told me 1 and 1/3 quarts.

[sheriff525]

Could i use Mobile 1 5W-40 oil. I know it is a diesel oil but so is the rotella? They are almost the same price here and i don't see why not.