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Thread: Steering and Handling Discussion.

  1. #191
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Location
    Erie PA
    Posts
    823

    FLAT SPEEDWAY OVALS

    What are your opinions on set up for flat speedway oval tracks. Left turns and straights.

    Obviously a wider footprint, sway bar, smaller tires and a lowered ride height are essential but what about castor and camber?
    2005 GNCC Sport Class #2
    2006 AWRCS Sport Class Champion

  2. #192
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Escondido, California
    Posts
    31
    Originally posted by Scro
    This may be way out in left field, but it just popped into my head. It's a given that a linked rear end is more popular, and thought of by most as a superior setup compared to no-link.

    I know the upper a-arm may have something to do with it, but why hasn't anyone tried a linked front a-arm? I mean the lower a-arm is making the same general range of motion as the swingarm. Would it not be as beneficial?


    Sorry about the quality of this article. It was 1, of a few, that I was able to save, out of the many that were destroyed in a flood. This was just a prototype. The revised front end was going to have CR500 linkage (all aluminum, of course). But, once again, the flood put a slight detour to that project.

  3. #193
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Valparaiso, Indiana
    Posts
    8

    front suspension on my ltz

    I just ran in to this thread for the first time. I'm pretty new to the site. Great reading btw and thanks for all the great info.
    I will soon be replacing my stock shocks and arms on my LTZ 400. I trail ride and do not race. I want to go wider and was thinking long travel. I've looked at Houser arms and Elka shocks. I wanted
    +3 and + 3/4 arms but since I ride trails I'm really thinking of +2 now and maybe nothing foward. Not sure if long travel or standard would be best for me. I hear long travel is the only way to go from most people but again I really don't know.
    I bought Hiper Tech 3 rims and 18" rear tires and 20" front tires. Now I'm thinking I should go with 19" rears and 21" fronts for the trails. Any suggestions from anyone would be appreciated. If you guys could give me opinions on different set ups that might be good for me, a trail rider not a racer. I do get some what agressive, a lot of trails I ride are rough and I do enjoy jumping to the best of my ability. I really want to make sure I have proper clearance for trails and a nice set up to smooth out the rough stuff and help with landings. From what I gather I'm thinking going up one inch in tire size like I listed with +2 width arms versus my original plan. My friend trail rides with me and has a +3 +1 arms set up with 18" and 20" tires with Elkas. His LTZ rides and handles better than mine of course but he's limited at times getting through trails. One other thing, If I go with long travel that would be on the front only for now. Elka says that's fine with standard travel on the rear just not the other way around. What's everyones opinion on this? Sorry about the long post, just have a lot going through my head and don't want to have to re-buy suspension becouse of poor choices I might have made.
    Scott Baker

  4. #194
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    SOUTHERN ILLINOIS
    Posts
    1,349
    I race mx and track ride 95% of teh time, but I can tell you 20" fronts and 18" rears are gonna cause you grief on the trail. Id gor 21" frotns and 22" rears. I really like Goldspeed tires that you can get from DWT. Very soft and grippy, yet wear very slowly.

    you may want to look into sending your rear shock to Andy M@ul, at M@ultechatv.com. He does good work and could have your rear working as well in the woods and trails as an Elka. I would look into Fox Shocks or Axis before Elka. Just my .02 Either way, you are gonna see an improvement
    DEVIN FISHER#56
    Team Titan
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  5. #195
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Crowtown, Ohio
    Posts
    38
    Originally posted by DEVINF450R
    I can tell you 20" fronts and 18" rears are gonna cause you grief on the trail. Id gor 21" frotns and 22" rears.
    Tire sizes need to be either equal or 1" taller in front. A shorter tire in the front will cause it to push. A 21/20 setup is ideal for trails. 22" rears are great for clearance but hinder handling. We run sprocket and rotor guards instead of skid plates to add more ground clearence. www.gregsatv.com

  6. #196
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    SOUTHERN ILLINOIS
    Posts
    1,349
    I meant to say 21 or 22" fronts and 20" rears. thanks for pointing that out....
    DEVIN FISHER#56
    Team Titan
    http://media.putfile.com/Devin-F-56
    http://sponsorhouse.loopd.com/Members/DevinF450r/Home.aspx

    http://www.myspace.com/dfish56

    2K11 Sponsors: Titan Motorworks, Hamson Racing, MX Midwest, No Fear, SPY Optics, Gaerne Boots, Leatt Brace, 661, Monster Energy, Kicker Audio, Osiris Shoes, Custom Axis, Walsh Racecraft, Rath Racing, Hotrods, Vertex Pistons, Cylinder Works, ODI Grips, KalGard, Twin Air, DWT, Renthal

  7. #197
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    144
    Originally posted by XC_Raptor700R
    Tire sizes need to be either equal or 1" taller in front. A shorter tire in the front will cause it to push. A 21/20 setup is ideal for trails. 22" rears are great for clearance but hinder handling. We run sprocket and rotor guards instead of skid plates to add more ground clearence. www.gregsatv.com
    I would think it would push less with smaller tires on the front?

  8. #198
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Crowtown, Ohio
    Posts
    38
    Originally posted by number52
    I would think it would push less with smaller tires on the front?
    Alot of it has to do with what tires are being used, but taller is better in the front, otherwise the pro's wouldn't be setting up their quads with them.

    www.gregsatv.com

  9. #199
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    southeast missouri
    Posts
    85
    The people who are bent on getting something like wheel spacers or ways around buying shocks and real deal AA-arms for the "ideal setup" are the people who dont have the cash it's not that they are denying the fact that wheel spacers suck ,and are not as good as a true setup... The reason someone does get wheel spacers is to save money meaning that for some it's just that 1000 dollar aa arms and 1000 dollars shocks are out of the question. Mainly this is a good subject over the matter, but i'm just saying that people asking these questions are more than likely trying to buy withen a price range... Something that they can afford ,and thus are looking for a way to get the best setup that they can for what they got... so if a way to help people get a wider setup when cash isn't their as much would be a great addition to the poll
    06 honda 450r

  10. #200
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    165
    http://www.acdparts.com/index.php?page=atv/aarms
    very similar concept to the suspension posted above, progressive link front suspension. Just wanted to throw this out there as i have not seen this discussed before, it is nice to see someone taking a different approach to suspension design, whether it delivers on its claims is another story.
    2001 Honda 400ex
    Baldwin Motorsports 440 stroker
    Pep shocks
    Sidewinder

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