Polishing- on a wheel

[pb_paulie_b]

I sanded the bowl and as much as I could but not in those tight areas. For those areas I used a Dremel tool and some really small wheels ( about 1 inch) I would consider a carb pretty high on the patience and skill level. I spent around 7 hours on it. I can give you some tips to help though.
Obviously plug all ends to keep debris out of the circuits. Break the carb down as far as possible and do those parts individually. Use Q-tips and a liquid polish like Mothers to clean up in those tight areas.
I have to admit a polished carb will definitely wow the crowd everytime
Broke down parts:

Other various angles:



Extreme close up!

[fords4life]

I've done some light polishing work, but nothin that big......yet. I can appreciate the amount of time that takes, and dang.....you've spent some serious hours on that stuff and done some amazing work....Good job!

[wilkin250r]

Originally posted by mach1stang
yeah i have a question i did a oil catch can on me and my dads mustang and i went all the way up to 600 and wet sanded it, it still has very very fine scrathes i was wondering if your parts have them ?

You can get finer than 600 grit, I think even Wal-Mart has 1500 and 2000, and if they don't, I'm sure your local auto-parts store does.

Polishing is really labor-intensive. It's not the sort of thing that can be done in 10 minutes. If you still have scratches, one of two things is happening. Either you didn't sand enough (you didn't remove all the scratches from the previous grit, or you didn't remove the original flaws in the material), or you need to go to the next higher grit and sand some more. Basically, it boils down to more sanding either way. You should be spending a LOT more time sanding then you ever do buffing.

Many of those truly hot show cars have literally hundreds of hours of sanding before paint is applied. Hundreds of hours.

[pb_paulie_b]

Originally posted by wilkin250r


Many of those truly hot show cars have literally hundreds of hours of sanding before paint is applied. Hundreds of hours.

I have more than 100 hours in the engine bay of my 89' Mustang.

[moto04racing]

that carb is beatiful..... im gonna do that

[messenger13]

I am by no means an "expert" at polishing and buffing aluminum . . . but I did learn a LOT a couple of winters ago when I polished and buffed the frame and wheels on my '98 ZX-11. I went to an expert and asked his advise. The first thing he said to me was, "NO SANDPAPER! That's for rookies!". Then he went on to tell me about the magic of buffing wheels and compounds with a HIGH-SPEED buffer (10K RPMs or greater! ). Here's a good place to start.

You want your aluminum to look nicer than chrome? . . . just say "No" to sandpaper, and "Yes" to buffing wheels and compounds. FWIW, buffing is what you do AFTER the polishing phase is done.

[pb_paulie_b]

I want to talk to him. Hi-speed buffing only works on parts that are basically smooth to begin with. Try that on any rough cast or rough machined part and you will get no where - fast. You will burn though wheel after wheel and still have pits and machine marks. At most you end up with a shiny surface that reflects a distorted image. I have an account with Caswell and can tell you that they offer no 'special wheels' that any other reputable supplier doesn't have. Without specialized machines- expensive and not available to the general public, polishing will always be about hand work and time. I have done many parts without hand sanding but it's rare to get away without using sandpaper.
Know how chromers get their parts so nice and shinny? They are sanded and polished first and THEN dipped in chrome.

[messenger13]

Yes, there is a time and place for sandpaper. But you should NEVER end with it. Not for a nicer-than-chrome finish.

And no offense Paulie, but I would not call the two items below "finished". But perhaps I'm just more anal than you are. Very possible.







I apologize if any of this offends you. This is certainly not my intent.

[pb_paulie_b]

It's all good Joe. I'm here to help and give advice for other people to learn the art of polishing. I have done a goo gobble amount of polishing over many years. The pic of the brake lever is just an example and looks like that only because I choose to leave it that way. You did see all the other examples right? The picture of the alternator you just posted is after 220 grit as I noted right above it in this thread. This pic is of it finished:

I don't have anything to prove.
I have lots of other photos of my work that is completely mirror reflective.
If you don't mind please describe your hi-speed technique and the machines you use w/some close up shots of the finished work...PB

[messenger13]

Originally posted by pb_paulie_b It's all good Joe.

Then I think it's time one of us stops typing. Nice alternator. VERY nice.