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Thread: deglaze cylinder

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
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    Charleston S.C.
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    884

    Question deglaze cylinder

    how do you do it? is that like 3 passes with a hone? 11.1 wiseco std bore

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Chandler, AZ
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    4,021
    On plated cylinders, several passes with a ball hone (I've heard everything from 240 to 360 grit--I'd likely prefer about 280 grit) or flap hone should do it. I just wet sand mine by hand in the sink. I've tired Scotchbrite pads but wasn't getting enough "bite" to remove visable build-up.

    Flap hones are sometimes prefered on two stroke cylinders because of the reduced risk of chipping the plating at the edge of the port (vs. a ball hone). But since you mentioned 11:1 I assume your talking about a four stroke cylinder.

    After deglazing clean the bore with solovent. Clean, clean some more, then clean again until a paper towel coated with brake clean (or similar) comes out perfectly white every time.
    "It ain't what you don't know that gets you into trouble.
    It's what you know for sure that just ain't so. "

    --Mark Twain

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
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    Charleston S.C.
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    so 3 passes with 280 ball hone will be fine to rering a 400ex

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Chandler, AZ
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    4,021
    No. You don't de-glaze an iron bore like you would a plated alumimum bore. Typically, the term "de-glaze" refers to cleaning up plated bores. Normal iron bores (like those in the 400EX) actually get honed. Honing and de-glazing are not the same thing. De-glazing only removes build-up that has transfered to the surface of a plated bore. It does not make any dimentional changes (besides restoring the bore to it's origninal size) and does not add any new cross-hatch. It only brings the orignial cross-hatch back to life by removing foreign material that's built up in the "scratches".

    Honing actually creates new cross-hatch and can dimentionally change the size of the bore in the process.

    I've never honed my own iron bores so I can't help you there.
    "It ain't what you don't know that gets you into trouble.
    It's what you know for sure that just ain't so. "

    --Mark Twain

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    upstate NY
    Posts
    497
    you can use a flex hone on your 400ex. 240 grit works well, but you might have to order it, most places sell 180 grit which is ok but don't get carried away. you'll want to run it on low speed at full power on a 2 speed drill (about 400 rpm). try to do one up and down stroke in one second. have it running going in and coming out of the jug. stroke it for 10 seconds or so until the glaze is gone, you want to keep the 45 degree cross hatch like the factory. if the hatching is too vertical, then use slower strokes, if its too horizontal, use faster ones. use oil or or rust penetrant on it then clean it out with thinner then hot soapy water. use atf or wd40 for final instal of the piston in the bore.
    don't buy from Paul Corbin aka TampaBoy813

    01 492ex

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