In doing a shim and bucket valve adjustment there is math involved. Unless you want to spend all day trying out different shims to get it right. Find your clearance specs for intake and exhaust. Now ill try to explain this in words without showing you the best of my ability. Since shims are sold in increments of .05 you need to take the clearance you measured and either add or subtract to it .05 to get your clearance within the spec range. (side note: intake should be on tight side of clearance exhaust on loose side because exhaust heats up faster and will expand more). Once you do that if you added to your clearance then that means you have to subtract that much from your shim number you are replaceing, and vice versa. Tada! Your resulting number you get from either adding or subtracting to your shim will be the new shim you need to get. say your shim says 195, that means it is 1.95mm shim. Odd shim numbers like 197 or 192 are more complex to do and I dont want to screw up trying to explain that to you via comment.
2000 400ex
Durablue +2 axle, Lonestar Carrier, Moose Nerfs, Protaper Bars, 450r shocks, 450r brakes (steel braided lines) and spindles, Motion Pro throttle cable, HMF Exhaust, ProCom CDI, Curtis Sparks +6 degree key, DG Bumper, Douglas rear rims, K&N Air and Oil filter, Complete Skids, +1 stock steering stem, Kenda knarleys in the rear, Kenda klaws up front, Factory Effects gripper seat, UM air shrouds, Primary drive alloy sprockets and gold x-ring chain, lots of TLC.
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yeah it isnt that hard of a process but it is alot of "trial and error". good to see things worked out for you.
will want to go ahead and buy the polaris special tool for the cam chain tensioner. The method described in this thread (leaving the cam chain tensioner in) is pretty much impossible if you don't have a buddy available to help you out....trust me. Sure a screwdriver will work to remove the tension from the cam chain, but it's in such a tight place and it requires that a good amount of pressure be used to remove the cam chain tension that it's just easier to remove the tensioner assembly and use the special tool to reset it before re-inserting it into the head for re-installation. Removal of the tensioner also makes it easier to align the timing marks properly upon re-assembly since you will have slack on the chain to work with. The method described here will require a you to strain your fingertips turning a small screwdriver in a tight area to remove enough tension from the chain to allow removal from the cams. Since this adjustment is suppossed to be checked and if need, completed every 35 hours, IMO I think it's worth it to buy the tool for $17.95. The polaris part number is pa-45958 and can be found at this link: 
this thing cranked right up. and just sounds so much better. I let it run for a few to check for any leaks and am pleasntly suprise as to how long it'll idle now as before it would only idle for maybe a minute.