Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 23

Thread: Never have a swinger bolt SEIZE again

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Stixville, Ms
    Posts
    3,429

    Thumbs up Never have a swinger bolt SEIZE again

    If you own a quad and frequent the creeks, mud holes or other wet conditions long enough you will eventually be faced with the problem of having a swinger bolt seize on ya.

    as many of you know it can be a big problem to remove and in extreme cases it has to be cut out with a sawz-all or hack saw.

    with a tip from a ole fellow R rider i followed thru and came up with a means to prevent this using the stock hollow swinger bolt.

    heres how it works....

    first you have the 2 holes drilled in the swinger in the locations approx. where bearings ride on the "hing pin" and do the same for the hing pin itself. if you have the open type swinger where the swinger bolt goes through the engine also. you should drill holes in this location aswell. unless you have a drill press and the right bits to do this you'll have to have this done because the metal is very hard and regular drill bits will not work.

    after the holes are drilled you'll need to thread one end of the swinger bolt for a greese zirk and plug the other end. either by tapping threads for a short bolt/screw or by filling it with JB weld. either way is fine.

    once this is done you now assemble things as normal and your ready to fill it with greese. each and every time you ride in extreme wet conditions its a good idea to pump a few shots of greese in there. this expells any water that may have entered while riding.

    heres a couple pics




    250R's...... "they gots bite wiff dat bark !!!" R's are fo sand bars.....

    '86 TRX250R (265)
    '86 TRX250R (250)
    '86 TRX250R (CT310) WIP
    '86 TRX250R (250)
    '89 TRX250R (WIP)
    '88 Blastee (WIP)

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Who the hell knows
    Posts
    65,589
    If your going to do this, also add a few holes where the pivot bolt slides through the engine, they will sieze there also.

    This is a good mod, however it doesnt keep the dust collars from siezing to the pivot bolt sleeves, you will still need to pull the bolt for proper servicing, but not as often!
    Staff Photographer ATVRiders.com
    Senior Photographer ATVInsider
    Staff Photographer GNCC Racing/ATV MX
    Staff Photographer Vurboffroad
    Staff Photographer Cycle News

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    381
    Heres my cure for that problem





  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Lester,WV
    Posts
    177
    That is genus,wouldnt be half as hard as disassembly and if you have a bearing carrier with an external zerk you just make rounds every time you do one you do the other.
    400ex,shreader rear tires,Nac's parking brake block off,SBS brake pads,Nac's graphic,renthal handle bars,fmf Ti4 full system,dyno-jet kit, Pro armor Heal nerf bar combo, Kenda Klaw XC front

  5. #5
    Guest
    Man, you guys go to alot of work to keep bolts from seizing! Just go down to your local auto parts store and buy a can of anti seize compound. I use it liberaly on my bolts, especially the swingarm pivot bolt and it always slides out like butter!!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Who the hell knows
    Posts
    65,589
    Originally posted by Kyle_TQRA
    Man, you guys go to alot of work to keep bolts from seizing! Just go down to your local auto parts store and buy a can of anti seize compound. I use it liberaly on my bolts, especially the swingarm pivot bolt and it always slides out like butter!!
    On the east side of the country, this seems to be a huge issue.
    Staff Photographer ATVRiders.com
    Senior Photographer ATVInsider
    Staff Photographer GNCC Racing/ATV MX
    Staff Photographer Vurboffroad
    Staff Photographer Cycle News

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    long island new york
    Posts
    56
    ever hear of anti sieze? we use it at work for tractor tralier brakes for this thing and it never siezes

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Buckeye, AZ
    Posts
    2,044
    I run a solid pivot bolt, so this isn't even an option for me.

    Even if it was, i'd still stick to pulling it, cleaning it off, and applying lithium grease liberally. Obviously, I don't deal with AS MUCH water. Mainly excess dust "control" water, not creeks. But we've still had them sieze before.
    Chance Mayfield #171
    Team Money$hot
    Team ILBT2
    2001 Cannondale FX470
    2002 Cannondale Blaze 450
    WORCS Open A/Pro-Am

    2009 Sponsors:
    S&S Motorsports, Blackwidow ATV, HiPer Technology, Amsoil, Fasst Company, ODI Grips, Powermadd, ASV Inventions, Regina USA, Four Racing, SixSixOne, ScottUSA, Gaerne Boots, Skorbordz, ProClean1000, RB Components, GoPro

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Va
    Posts
    272
    anti seize is great stuff
    2004 Z 400
    2003 Rubicon

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Nevada
    Posts
    9,647
    Anti-sieze seems to be a common suggestion. Trust me, it's not enough back east.

    The anti-sieze will work well for a short period of time, if you want to disassemble again in three weeks, the anti-sieze will allow your bolt to come out with ease.

    But the anti-sieze won't last forever. If you're riding constant water and mud, you need to re-apply. THIS is the benefit of the holes and grease zerk. It allows you to re-apply new grease to the problem areas without actually disassembling.
    Duncan Racing 340PV, +2 A-arms, +4 LSR axle, and a host of other goodies.

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •