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Thread: Contrversial BREAK-IN READ!!!!!!!

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    San Diego, Ca
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    974

    Contrversial BREAK-IN READ!!!!!!!

    Everyone check out this site and let me know what you think, I am by no means a professional engine builder but I do perform most of the work on my bike besides machine work. This break-in procedure is unlike anything I have ever heard from any engine builder before, but it sounds like it makes sense to me. Any engine builders what do you think about the article. Here it is:
    http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
    2001 Duncan Racing National 440ex
    Power Cylinder 4000 12:1 JE
    web cam 463/9i, port & polish, 3 angle valve job, hardend rockers, titanium valve springs.
    Duncan Racing Fat Boy 4 Exhaust
    1mm oversized blackdiamond intake and exhaust valves
    15 point gusseted frame powder coated candy apple red
    Doug Eichner Signature Series Edelbrock Carb
    Procom CDI ignition
    Hinson Basket, Removable Side Case
    Sparks 8 plate clutch
    Custom graphics and seat cover
    Custom air intake with K&n Filter
    everything is polished and billet
    Roll Design chrome swing arm
    Elka dual rate ssd with LT linkage
    TCS ZPS, douglas ultimate billet beadlock wheels with Maxxis Razr's
    Roll +1.5" chrome anti vibe stem with Tag T-2 oversized bars cr hi bend
    Herrmann arms Trail Tech HID Lights w/ custom billet mount (for the dunes)
    Overized UM vented oil tank FST oil cooler kit and even more

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Chandler, AZ
    Posts
    4,021
    Mototune's ideas have been around for a while. I like to split the difference--run em' hard but not too hard.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    plymouth,brockton,MA
    Posts
    421
    i was always told to break an engine in the way your gonna run it.and i run everything hard.
    2005 TRX400EX
    DG swingarm skid plate,moose raceing nerf bars.hole shots front and rear with ITP wheels,powermadd handgaurds,A-arm skid plates,

    my truck:
    1995 ford F350 crew cab dually,powerstroke diesel,auto trans,fully loaded and highly modified!!runs the1/4 mile at a bestof 15.07 seconds so far

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Chi town burbs, IL
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    4,256
    I asked Lazarus from GT Thunder about this and he had no objections to it. He told me that when he builds a fresh motor for his racers, they just run them like they normally would.

    Of course you would also need to adjust the valves again at some point after everything is broken in. Proper engine pre start-up lubrication is also a must as well.
    00' 400EX - GT Thunder 450 stroker, custom JE 12.5:1 piston,
    +7mm stroked crank, HD stroker rod, HRC cam, GTT full race porting, +1mm intake valves, FCR 39 carb, CRF timing chain, Denso IXG27 iridium plug, full Hinson 8 plate clutch, Desert Toyz Supercooler w/ SPAL fan, UM airbox w/ UNI, CT Hi-Output exhaust, Roll LOBO II F/R, LT PEP 8 click ZPS piggyback fronts, PEP ZPS rear, YFZ brakes/450R master, CCP stabilizer, Hiper Tech beadlocks, Durablue X-33, TAG, Quadtech, ASV, AC, IMS, RAD, Works Connection, Galfer..

    05' Kawasaki KLX 110 - Fast 50's springs F/R, HRC cradle, Rox risers, FLY fatbars, NGK CR6HIX iridium plug, Twin Air filter

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Northern Kentucky
    Posts
    139
    I have always been told by a couple friends who build race car motors... Run it like your going to run it... They say if its going to come apart or anything go wrong with it, it will happen regardless. I can understand not running it extremely hard just so you can break in the rings decently.
    2001 Honda 400ex
    motor:+4 stroke crank, 89mm 13:1 JE piston, Stroker cam, port and polish, larger valves, 450r carb, K&N filter, GT thunder shorty, MSD ignition.
    Frame: Gibson +3+1 LT front end, Custom axis shocks, RPM swingarm, LSR axle, Graydone proline nerfs, Tag bumper, PEP steering stabilizer, Houser stem, tag bars, Axis rear shock. plus more stuff i cant remember

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Central NY
    Posts
    9,290
    Thats how I break in my engines. Just make sure its nice and warm before you give her he11.
    M-Dub

    Quadless as of now
    05 KLX110 - some stuff
    01 ZR600 - bone stock
    1992 LT80 - pitquad I guess?

    So far the people that have SCREWED me on here:
    powerband
    and yamablaster24 more yamablaster24


    Remember every time you run wheel spacers or flipped rims... god kills a kitten

    "The best you have ridden is the best you know" Paul Thede- RaceTech

    Ignorance is NOT bliss -- it's embarrassing and counter-productive

    Experience is a tough teacher she gives the test first the lesson afterwards


    RIP 606

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    nc
    Posts
    220
    thats the way I've always done engines..
    phil
    04 400 ex hmf slip-on ,tusk nerfs, renthal bars,mso bumper,k&N w outerwear.

    97 polaris sport 400,with .020 wiseco ,ported cylinder,hpd pipe,rad reeds. (sold

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Alton, IL
    Posts
    341
    im kind of partial. i start slow but before the end of the day im running 3/4 throttle. i have had no problems with my 400 it actually ran really strong.
    See yaa
    04 400ex.................................11:1 wiesco
    alum. air box no lid.....................Hot shot CDI
    Bill's Thunder series slip on..........K&N
    450R Carb................................175 Dj
    Stage I Hot Cam
    Kenda Klaws on 10" rims

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Nevada
    Posts
    9,647
    I'm in the middle.

    Really, I think much of it depends on how the engine was built, your piston material, and your clearance specs.


    The traditional method of slow-delicate heat cycles is better for the piston. If you have very tight tolerances and cylinder/bore clearance, you run a serious risk of seizure if you drop the hammer during break-in. You need to give it it time to expand and contract, work out all it's internal stresses, and wear into the cylinder properly.

    The flipside is that high cylinder pressures are good for seating the rings, and those high cylinder pressures aren't going to happen at idle. And if you have a loose cylinder/bore clearance, you BETTER get a good seal on those rings.

    So, I say your break-in depends on your motor setup and piston material. If you have a tight clearance, break it in slowly. With a tight clearance, ring seal isn't quite as critical, because your piston seals better. However, if you have a loose clearance, drop the hammer.

    Just my $.02
    Duncan Racing 340PV, +2 A-arms, +4 LSR axle, and a host of other goodies.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    jaffrey NH
    Posts
    1,654
    I actually broke my motor in 2 days ago. I ran it for about 2 min at idle. Then after that I got on it and did some 3/4 throttle acceleration in 3rd gear. Keeping the revs low.

    after that I let er rip, but still havent really reved the pisser out of it.

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