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Thread: How to change your mechanical seal(water pump)

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Cortland, NY
    Posts
    529
    I just replaced my mechanical seal with help from this post, thanks for all the tips!
    Quads: 86 TRX 250R, 08 KFX 450R

    Trike: 83 ATC 185s (original and mint)

    Sled: Polaris IQR 600 mod

    Bike: Yamaha RZ350

    www.knhmotorsports.com

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    16

    mech-seal

    Originally posted by JM317
    I just replaced mine in about 10 minutes and it was the first time I've done it. Once the impellar is unscrewed and removed, pull the old seal out with some pliers. Tap the bearing and seal out with a screwdriver or socket. To press the mech seal in, just use a large bench vise and 24mm socket. Place a piece of wood or something behind the back side of the case of course to keep the back from getting damaged by the vise. Place the socket's hollow inner side directly over the edges of the mech seal with the back side of the socket against the other side of the vise. Make sure everything is lined up and even. Crank the vise down. Install the seal and bearing/backside of the impellar seal with another socket (I used a washer inbetween the socket and seal when tapping it), install the impellar again and you're done.
    DO NOT USE 24mm 0r 25 mm SOCKET THEY WILL DESTROY THE SEAL--USE A 3/4 INCH PVC COUPLER-- A $40.00 LEARNED LESSON
    THANK ATV GODS THEY HAD ONE IN STOCK -ONLY AFTER USING OLD SEAL ON THE IMPELLER TO PRESS IN THE MECH-SEAL

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Kansas
    Posts
    435
    i just purchased a new mech seal, bearing, oil seal and all gaskets including the metal one shipped to my house for $50 from service honda all oem / i have not replaced any of it yet and not sure i wanna take advice from anybody on this thread after reading it!!! sure does seem to b alot of controversy over what works and what doesnt! lol surley it cant b that difficult!
    Go Big or Go Home!!!

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Eugene, OR
    Posts
    414
    Originally posted by Grande Huevos
    surley it cant b that difficult!
    With the correct tools its a walk in the park. Without the correct tools its like walking barefoot in the desert. I have seen many people destroy the $35 mechanical seal.

    The best advice is too use heat. The bearings and seals will come out much easier. 250 degrees is good.

    Last time I was pressing in the mechanical seal I broke the water spigot. If you heat to 450 you can even get the spigot unscrewed.

    Home of the shiny 250r
    I see stuff whether it exists or not

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    N.J.
    Posts
    4,403
    Originally posted by Grande Huevos
    i just purchased a new mech seal, bearing, oil seal and all gaskets including the metal one shipped to my house for $50 from service honda all oem / i have not replaced any of it yet and not sure i wanna take advice from anybody on this thread after reading it!!! sure does seem to b alot of controversy over what works and what doesnt! lol surley it cant b that difficult!

    the original how to works, everyone has their way and their two cents about how to do it. The way I explained many years ago, allows you topressin the metal seal with out a special tool and minimal risk of wrecking the seal.

    Dont listen to me though, im only one of 3 atv specialists NOTED as one on this webstie.
    Atv Riders Photo Journalist and Atv riders atv specialist
    Ride:
    Laeger flip top protrax, Axis LT Shocks, Dominator +4 race axle , BWR 330 motor,Keihn 39mm pwk, 178 main, 52 pilot, DGH needle middle clip, Curtis Sparks TT Pipe& Silencer,CFM aluminum airbox, K&N Filter, 98 CR250 Boysen Rad Valve (rad 02b) W/spacer plate,Ricky Stator 200watt,Ricky Stator Rectifier, Ricky Stator Lightened Flywheel,Ricky Stator Billet Lights 200watt, Amsoil Dominator and C12 @ 50:1
    soon to have a B+B 320cc ktm rod stroker.

    ad me on facebook


    BWR part out all parts for sale!

    http://www.exriders.com/vbb/showthre...0&pagenumber=4

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Louisiana
    Posts
    451
    I just let a friend replace mine cause I thought he knew what he was doing...he had did his before, well he tapped it in with a 1" pipe. It seemed like it went in real smooth. Well after I put it back on it was dripping from the coolant hole under the waterpump. Anyway I purchased a new seal AGAIN and did it myself with a shop press and a 3/4 white PVC cap...yes platic cap and it worked awsome. I cleaned the area for the mechanical seal good with steel wool and said a few prayers! It works awsome. Thanks to AceCarlos for help with advice too.
    88 K&T 250 R 76x76

    09 Pimped CC Precedent

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Nevada
    Posts
    9,647
    Originally posted by beerock
    Dont listen to me though, im only one of 3 atv specialists NOTED as one on this webstie.
    Holy $#!%, where have YOU been?
    Duncan Racing 340PV, +2 A-arms, +4 LSR axle, and a host of other goodies.

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    N.J.
    Posts
    4,403
    hahahaha, I been around. Not really into the whole forum thing much anymore. How u been man?
    Atv Riders Photo Journalist and Atv riders atv specialist
    Ride:
    Laeger flip top protrax, Axis LT Shocks, Dominator +4 race axle , BWR 330 motor,Keihn 39mm pwk, 178 main, 52 pilot, DGH needle middle clip, Curtis Sparks TT Pipe& Silencer,CFM aluminum airbox, K&N Filter, 98 CR250 Boysen Rad Valve (rad 02b) W/spacer plate,Ricky Stator 200watt,Ricky Stator Rectifier, Ricky Stator Lightened Flywheel,Ricky Stator Billet Lights 200watt, Amsoil Dominator and C12 @ 50:1
    soon to have a B+B 320cc ktm rod stroker.

    ad me on facebook


    BWR part out all parts for sale!

    http://www.exriders.com/vbb/showthre...0&pagenumber=4

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Nevada
    Posts
    9,647
    Getting back into things, actually, picked up an old beater, along with a few new friends that are eager to get into the sport.

    I'm looking at designing a new ignition system, going to see if I can marry a CR250 and a stock 250r ignition together, should be an interesting project.
    Duncan Racing 340PV, +2 A-arms, +4 LSR axle, and a host of other goodies.

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    N.J.
    Posts
    4,403
    for the power of the CR and lights of the trx?

    if it doesnt work out just go with the ricky stator, stator, flywheel and rectifier

    the best way to go to get what you want if im right as into why your doing it, try and get a PVL digital ignition that u can use lights with.
    Atv Riders Photo Journalist and Atv riders atv specialist
    Ride:
    Laeger flip top protrax, Axis LT Shocks, Dominator +4 race axle , BWR 330 motor,Keihn 39mm pwk, 178 main, 52 pilot, DGH needle middle clip, Curtis Sparks TT Pipe& Silencer,CFM aluminum airbox, K&N Filter, 98 CR250 Boysen Rad Valve (rad 02b) W/spacer plate,Ricky Stator 200watt,Ricky Stator Rectifier, Ricky Stator Lightened Flywheel,Ricky Stator Billet Lights 200watt, Amsoil Dominator and C12 @ 50:1
    soon to have a B+B 320cc ktm rod stroker.

    ad me on facebook


    BWR part out all parts for sale!

    http://www.exriders.com/vbb/showthre...0&pagenumber=4

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