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Thread: How to change your mechanical seal(water pump)

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    16

    Mecnanical seal

    I change my mechanical seal, oil seal, shaft and bearing on my 310R. The problem is that it wasn't leaking from the small hole of the bottom water pump cover when I first installed. Then I ran it for several minutes and when I look it, it was leaking small drops of coolant. Right now I dissambled again and everything looks fine. The mechanical seal doesn't seems to be broken. What do you think is the problem?

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    30
    Does anyone have pics or a good diagram of how to perform a complete install. I have checked the service manual but does not help as much as I'd like. Which way do the seals face, and is it ok to install the bearing first on the outside of the cover or do other parts need to be installed before installing the bearing? Any feedback is greatly appreciated. PICS are a big plus.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    445
    I just replaced mine in about 10 minutes and it was the first time I've done it. Once the impellar is unscrewed and removed, pull the old seal out with some pliers. Tap the bearing and seal out with a screwdriver or socket. To press the mech seal in, just use a large bench vise and 24mm socket. Place a piece of wood or something behind the back side of the case of course to keep the back from getting damaged by the vise. Place the socket's hollow inner side directly over the edges of the mech seal with the back side of the socket against the other side of the vise. Make sure everything is lined up and even. Crank the vise down. Install the seal and bearing/backside of the impellar seal with another socket (I used a washer inbetween the socket and seal when tapping it), install the impellar again and you're done.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    N.J.
    Posts
    4,403
    Originally posted by JM317
    I just replaced mine in about 10 minutes and it was the first time I've done it. Once the impellar is unscrewed and removed, pull the old seal out with some pliers. Tap the bearing and seal out with a screwdriver or socket. To press the mech seal in, just use a large bench vise and 24mm socket. Place a piece of wood or something behind the back side of the case of course to keep the back from getting damaged by the vise. Place the socket's hollow inner side directly over the edges of the mech seal with the back side of the socket against the other side of the vise. Make sure everything is lined up and even. Crank the vise down. Install the seal and bearing/backside of the impellar seal with another socket (I used a washer inbetween the socket and seal when tapping it), install the impellar again and you're done.

    I hope that your seal is not cracked. you can damage the carbon seal using a socket to press it in.
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  5. #25
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    445
    The socket never touches anything other than the outer edges of the mech seal. A 24mm will matchup perfectly, the socket was deep enough to allow all the inner parts to fit inside of it with no clearance issues.

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    N.J.
    Posts
    4,403
    Originally posted by JM317
    The socket never touches anything other than the outer edges of the mech seal. A 24mm will matchup perfectly, the socket was deep enough to allow all the inner parts to fit inside of it with no clearance issues.
    touching the outer edges of the seal is a bad idea, you can crush/warp the seal if something goes wrong.

    if it works for you thats great
    Atv Riders Photo Journalist and Atv riders atv specialist
    Ride:
    Laeger flip top protrax, Axis LT Shocks, Dominator +4 race axle , BWR 330 motor,Keihn 39mm pwk, 178 main, 52 pilot, DGH needle middle clip, Curtis Sparks TT Pipe& Silencer,CFM aluminum airbox, K&N Filter, 98 CR250 Boysen Rad Valve (rad 02b) W/spacer plate,Ricky Stator 200watt,Ricky Stator Rectifier, Ricky Stator Lightened Flywheel,Ricky Stator Billet Lights 200watt, Amsoil Dominator and C12 @ 50:1
    soon to have a B+B 320cc ktm rod stroker.

    ad me on facebook


    BWR part out all parts for sale!

    http://www.exriders.com/vbb/showthre...0&pagenumber=4

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    445
    Everything went in smooth, I checked it over really well. I didn't see any signs of the metal cripping or bending. The true test will be when I get it back together in a couple of weeks, I'll post the results.

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Coal Township, Pennsylvania
    Posts
    463
    where does one buy a complete gasket and seal kit ??

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    445
    I used OEM gaskets for the bottomend and cometic gaskets for the topend, but you can get all the seals and gaskets in kit form from Boss Bearing (I think K&S makes them), give them a call and ask for Kyle. The mechanical seal is something you'll have to buy from a Honda dealer.

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    445
    Originally posted by JM317
    Everything went in smooth, I checked it over really well. I didn't see any signs of the metal cripping or bending. The true test will be when I get it back together in a couple of weeks, I'll post the results.
    Everything is working great, no issues whatsoever.

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