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Thread: How to change your mechanical seal(water pump)

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Long Island, New York
    Posts
    1,318
    Okay its been awhile but i have taken the cover off and took the shaft and impeller out. Then there was this rubber thing with a spring i pullefd that out as well. Wheres the mechanical seal? Theres that metal thing i cant get out and also the bearing i cant get out how should i go about doing this? how do i know whats reallly causing the leak like how can i tell the seal is damaged?
    88 250R
    06 CRF250R

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    N.J.
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    4,403
    Originally posted by Cr85rRida
    Okay its been awhile but i have taken the cover off and took the shaft and impeller out. Then there was this rubber thing with a spring i pullefd that out as well. Wheres the mechanical seal? Theres that metal thing i cant get out and also the bearing i cant get out how should i go about doing this? how do i know whats reallly causing the leak like how can i tell the seal is damaged?
    omg. well you just destroyed the seal if you pulled out the spring, what were you thinking?

    the spring and rubber piece with the grey plastic was the mechanical seal. also the part on the back side of the impeller.

    i think you need to make a post and try to READ.
    Atv Riders Photo Journalist and Atv riders atv specialist
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  3. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Long Island, New York
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    Mabey i wrote it wrong. I didnt take the spring out of the peice. I just removed the whole rubber peice every thing still intact. It slid right off the metal peice.All i have removed was the shaft, the impeller and rubber peice with the spring still in there. What ever else is in there i havent touched. So did i still mess up? I read your first post and i have the metal peice in site. So what should i do? thanks sorry for being iliterate lol.
    88 250R
    06 CRF250R

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    arkansas
    Posts
    235
    FYI if you have coolent coming out of the weephole, it might be the waterpump oil seal, located next to the bearing my mechanical seal is brand new and still came was leaking, so i pulled everything apart and the oil seal was broken, not the mechanical.
    nothing 450

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Long Island, New York
    Posts
    1,318
    Im buying the whole kit oil seal bearing mech seal and gaskets. Thanks for the info tho
    88 250R
    06 CRF250R

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    arkansas
    Posts
    235
    your a smart guy, its much earier to do it that way than not have to open all back up!
    nothing 450

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    N.J.
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    4,403
    Originally posted by bombsquad54
    FYI if you have coolent coming out of the weephole, it might be the waterpump oil seal, located next to the bearing my mechanical seal is brand new and still came was leaking, so i pulled everything apart and the oil seal was broken, not the mechanical.
    that does not sound right to me, the weep hole is usualy free of oil and coolant. if the oil seal blows, oil will leak through the weep hole and the mech seal will stil be working properly. no coolant will be in the weep hole area if the oil seal blows. if you have coolant leaking in that area there is a sealing problem with the mech seal.

    once again stated a little differently.

    the area in between the oil seal and mechanical pump are DRY the weep hole is to show failure signs of either the mech seal or oil seal. or water pump shaft bearing.
    Atv Riders Photo Journalist and Atv riders atv specialist
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    soon to have a B+B 320cc ktm rod stroker.

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  8. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    So Cal
    Posts
    391
    Beerock, I just got a hinson cover mod done off of ebay. Did a great job too and a lot cheaper. After changing the seal I have felt abit more drag when hand turning the impeller shaft, when using the washers w/ the used seal your actually seating the mech seal abit further after initially pressing the seal into the case? Thanks
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  9. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    N.J.
    Posts
    4,403
    you have to use your eye when your near the "seated" area of the mech seal. the seal will not go in any further then the specified seating area, if it doesit will not seal right and you will probably break the seal if you try it.

    usually the new mech seals are tighter when first installed and once they break in they free up.

    you put the washers in between the old seal and impeller correct? any other way will damage the seal
    Atv Riders Photo Journalist and Atv riders atv specialist
    Ride:
    Laeger flip top protrax, Axis LT Shocks, Dominator +4 race axle , BWR 330 motor,Keihn 39mm pwk, 178 main, 52 pilot, DGH needle middle clip, Curtis Sparks TT Pipe& Silencer,CFM aluminum airbox, K&N Filter, 98 CR250 Boysen Rad Valve (rad 02b) W/spacer plate,Ricky Stator 200watt,Ricky Stator Rectifier, Ricky Stator Lightened Flywheel,Ricky Stator Billet Lights 200watt, Amsoil Dominator and C12 @ 50:1
    soon to have a B+B 320cc ktm rod stroker.

    ad me on facebook


    BWR part out all parts for sale!

    http://www.exriders.com/vbb/showthre...0&pagenumber=4

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    It depends
    Posts
    693
    If you have the crankcase assembly tool (07964-mb00200), the smaller end of it fits pretty nicely on the mechanical seal flange. I use a plastic dead blow hammer to drive it in.


    On one of my 250R's I replaced the mechanical seal twice because it kept leaking. The second time it failed, I realized the large countershaft bearing had spun in the right crank case half. It did not fit tightly. The end of the counter shaft had movement that basically ruined the water pump bearing and all seals involved.

    I got a new right case half, but have not put the thing together yet.

    During assembly, don't get any oil on the mating surface of the ceramic seal. Wipe it perfectly clean. Use a very small amount of soap for lubricant. I have seen recommendations for mineral oil, food grade lubricant, and soap. I use dial bar soap from the soap dish. Just wet your finger, get a little bar soap on it, and wipe a very light coating on the seal mating surface. I have read Liquid soap is not recommended.

    I have done several of these. The one with the bad countershaft bearing seat is the only one I have done twice (well, three times now! ) .

    Dry running the seal will ruin it quick. Make sure the coolant is in the system before kicking it over!
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