|
|
C&D Racing, 308-696-7805
Here are a few pics of my front end, I have added the Houser A-Arms and aftermarket shocks. For some reason I don't think that I have my front end all tuned in yet. Can someone take a look at the attached pics and let me know if I have them adjusted right. Let me know any info. Thanks
C&D Racing, 308-696-7805
SOLD ---------- SOLD
2001 400ex, JE 416 10.8:1, Hotcams Stage 2 Cam, C&D Racing Port and Polish, Viton Valve seals, 39mm FCR Carb, Complete Curtis Sparks X-6 Exhuast, Sparks Timing Key, Magnum Rev Limiter, Sparks 8 Plate Clutch, Race Cut Fenders with CarbonFiber Hood with Scoop w/ mesh insert, Magura Hydrolic Clutch, Steel braided clutch line, Holeshots MX Rear on Red Labels, Holeshot MX Front on Red Labels, K&N Air Filter with Prefilter, ShockWears, AC Skid Plate, and Polished Propeg Nerfs, TAG X-5 Bars, Kill Switch, DR Blockoff Plate, OMF Radiator Shrouds, Elka Triple Rate SSD, Rear Elka Rebuild, +2 Houser a-arms (HammerTone and Chrome), Lonestar Axcaliber 2 + 2 axle, Polished Motor Mounts and Sidecase, DR number plates, PEP Steering Stabilizer.
C&D Racing, 308-696-7805
C&D Racing, 308-696-7805
2nd
C&D Racing, 308-696-7805
SOLD ---------- SOLD
2001 400ex, JE 416 10.8:1, Hotcams Stage 2 Cam, C&D Racing Port and Polish, Viton Valve seals, 39mm FCR Carb, Complete Curtis Sparks X-6 Exhuast, Sparks Timing Key, Magnum Rev Limiter, Sparks 8 Plate Clutch, Race Cut Fenders with CarbonFiber Hood with Scoop w/ mesh insert, Magura Hydrolic Clutch, Steel braided clutch line, Holeshots MX Rear on Red Labels, Holeshot MX Front on Red Labels, K&N Air Filter with Prefilter, ShockWears, AC Skid Plate, and Polished Propeg Nerfs, TAG X-5 Bars, Kill Switch, DR Blockoff Plate, OMF Radiator Shrouds, Elka Triple Rate SSD, Rear Elka Rebuild, +2 Houser a-arms (HammerTone and Chrome), Lonestar Axcaliber 2 + 2 axle, Polished Motor Mounts and Sidecase, DR number plates, PEP Steering Stabilizer.
C&D Racing, 308-696-7805
C&D Racing, 308-696-7805
3rd and last....thanks for the replys
C&D Racing, 308-696-7805
SOLD ---------- SOLD
2001 400ex, JE 416 10.8:1, Hotcams Stage 2 Cam, C&D Racing Port and Polish, Viton Valve seals, 39mm FCR Carb, Complete Curtis Sparks X-6 Exhuast, Sparks Timing Key, Magnum Rev Limiter, Sparks 8 Plate Clutch, Race Cut Fenders with CarbonFiber Hood with Scoop w/ mesh insert, Magura Hydrolic Clutch, Steel braided clutch line, Holeshots MX Rear on Red Labels, Holeshot MX Front on Red Labels, K&N Air Filter with Prefilter, ShockWears, AC Skid Plate, and Polished Propeg Nerfs, TAG X-5 Bars, Kill Switch, DR Blockoff Plate, OMF Radiator Shrouds, Elka Triple Rate SSD, Rear Elka Rebuild, +2 Houser a-arms (HammerTone and Chrome), Lonestar Axcaliber 2 + 2 axle, Polished Motor Mounts and Sidecase, DR number plates, PEP Steering Stabilizer.
C&D Racing, 308-696-7805
C&D Racing
Josh their is a very informative article on how to set up A-arms on the web site http://www.cdracingonline.com and it is under tech tips or under Chassis in the atvproducts page. Hope this helps you out. If the link doesn't work let me know and I can copy and paste the page in an e-mail. The bike is looking good.
C&D Racing
C&D Racing, 308-696-7805
Hey, nice to see you on here finally, I just sent you a email, you might find it a bit funny. Read it or check out the post on under the mechanical section. And about the caster and camber, I have read that article you have a few times but can't get it right.
C&D Racing, 308-696-7805
SOLD ---------- SOLD
2001 400ex, JE 416 10.8:1, Hotcams Stage 2 Cam, C&D Racing Port and Polish, Viton Valve seals, 39mm FCR Carb, Complete Curtis Sparks X-6 Exhuast, Sparks Timing Key, Magnum Rev Limiter, Sparks 8 Plate Clutch, Race Cut Fenders with CarbonFiber Hood with Scoop w/ mesh insert, Magura Hydrolic Clutch, Steel braided clutch line, Holeshots MX Rear on Red Labels, Holeshot MX Front on Red Labels, K&N Air Filter with Prefilter, ShockWears, AC Skid Plate, and Polished Propeg Nerfs, TAG X-5 Bars, Kill Switch, DR Blockoff Plate, OMF Radiator Shrouds, Elka Triple Rate SSD, Rear Elka Rebuild, +2 Houser a-arms (HammerTone and Chrome), Lonestar Axcaliber 2 + 2 axle, Polished Motor Mounts and Sidecase, DR number plates, PEP Steering Stabilizer.
C&D Racing, 308-696-7805
Brand loyal SOB
hey jhallet form the looks of your pics you have to much negative camber(I think this means the top of the tire is to far out)
bring it in so it angles inwards slightly.
I would do this by screwing the top ball joints in about 4 complete turns on both sides. then put them back on the spindles and look to see if it is lightly inwards on the top.
I cant get over how much the houser a-arms look like laegers....
Atv Riders Photo Journalist and Atv riders atv specialist
Ride:
Laeger flip top protrax, Axis LT Shocks, Dominator +4 race axle , BWR 330 motor,Keihn 39mm pwk, 178 main, 52 pilot, DGH needle middle clip, Curtis Sparks TT Pipe& Silencer,CFM aluminum airbox, K&N Filter, 98 CR250 Boysen Rad Valve (rad 02b) W/spacer plate,Ricky Stator 200watt,Ricky Stator Rectifier, Ricky Stator Lightened Flywheel,Ricky Stator Billet Lights 200watt, Amsoil Dominator and C12 @ 50:1
soon to have a B+B 320cc ktm rod stroker.
ad me on facebook
BWR part out all parts for sale!
http://www.exriders.com/vbb/showthre...0&pagenumber=4
Senior Member
Lonestar also has a Thing on how to Set Camber and Caster. Go to www.LSRacing.com and check it out.
Thanks for the Support: Maier, Moto-Xperts, Rekluse, Teixeira Tech, Fox Racing Shox, BK Performance, DWT, Rath Racing, Quadtech, Streamline Brakes, Precision Racing Products, PowerMadd, Spider Grips, ASV Inventions, IMS Products, CV4, UNI.
something NEW on the way
Your toe should be about a quarter inch on each side and you camber should be about 5 degerees. A good way to set camber is to buy the carpenders protractor form sears and set each wheel to 85 degrees.
C&D Racing, 308-696-7805
I allready have the top ball joints turned all the way in, How about the bottome ones?
C&D Racing, 308-696-7805
SOLD ---------- SOLD
2001 400ex, JE 416 10.8:1, Hotcams Stage 2 Cam, C&D Racing Port and Polish, Viton Valve seals, 39mm FCR Carb, Complete Curtis Sparks X-6 Exhuast, Sparks Timing Key, Magnum Rev Limiter, Sparks 8 Plate Clutch, Race Cut Fenders with CarbonFiber Hood with Scoop w/ mesh insert, Magura Hydrolic Clutch, Steel braided clutch line, Holeshots MX Rear on Red Labels, Holeshot MX Front on Red Labels, K&N Air Filter with Prefilter, ShockWears, AC Skid Plate, and Polished Propeg Nerfs, TAG X-5 Bars, Kill Switch, DR Blockoff Plate, OMF Radiator Shrouds, Elka Triple Rate SSD, Rear Elka Rebuild, +2 Houser a-arms (HammerTone and Chrome), Lonestar Axcaliber 2 + 2 axle, Polished Motor Mounts and Sidecase, DR number plates, PEP Steering Stabilizer.
C&D Racing, 308-696-7805
The bottom's should be screwed all the way in at all times,,,at least that's what John houser told me.. try setting the toe in first and go from there.
I'm possibly on crack today but it looks like your ball joints are bassackward,,like the top ball joint needs to be on the bottom and vice versa,,but I didn't think you could put the bottom ball joint on the top..at least not on mine,,but I think yours are different then mine..like I said I could be on crack today and not know it..the reason I say this is because the bolt on the top arm looks much bigger than the bottom bolt..big bolt on bottom smaller on top..if they were bassackward then it would give you a negative camber because one is longer than the other.
I keep lookin at your pics and the editing my post, LOL ,,I'm almost positive that's what it is man,,what chew other guys think??
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote