Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 16 of 16

Thread: installing a kill switch

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    veedersburg indiana
    Posts
    396
    i understand the long wire short wire but my wires are the same length so is the long wire the button end or the metal end ? just asking as my switch is a old one that still works that i have had laying around ?? thanks
    2000 440 ex
    yoshimura full exhaust, ac nerfs, prm bumper, um air box, braided lines, magura hyd clutch, ars-fx + 1 aarms,
    custom axis shocks, wer stabilizer,
    hipers with blue rings and razr 2's
    protapers, burgard stem,
    oury grips, prm skids, cycra probend hand guards
    chrome burgard sub frame
    prm gwide grab bar


    special thanks to
    pairanutz racing ,badlands offroad park,millcreek whitetail farm ,, buffalo creek scent products and wife and kids

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    It seems like Im always at work
    Posts
    3,409
    Originally posted by jonc623
    i understand the long wire short wire but my wires are the same length so is the long wire the button end or the metal end ? just asking as my switch is a old one that still works that i have had laying around ?? thanks

    It doesnt matter which wire you put where. It's a simple contact switch. When you pull the cord off it closes the switch and grounds the ignition wire. My switch had two wires that were the same length, and only four inches long. I had to lenghten the wires to even reach the harness.


    Jeepdude, thats pretty much what mine looks like, but instead of cutting the wires I just cut away the insulation with a razor blade and soldered in the new wire. But I have the tools to remove the pins from the connectors.
    Youll be happy with the connections doing the way you did and wont have to worry about water getting in there and corroding the splices.

    Maybe JOEX can put the photos in the FAQ section
    Heres to all the men in women in uniform!

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Northern CA
    Posts
    281
    Yeah, there's a couple things I would do differently if I did it again. One thing I "oops'd" on is the when I pulled the rubber covering back and spliced the wires, the rubber obviously could not be slid back down without being sliced up one side. I should have poked a hole in the rubber sheath and pushed the new wires through it, then it would have slid back down and covered things up wihtout needing to be cut... but I don't think that's too critical since the half roll of electrical tape I used to wrap it up should seal pretty good.
    2002 400EX, Arens Steering Stem, Arens nerfs, Renthal 787 bars, MSR Raptor clutch lever, 14/39 gears, X-Ring chain, Kenda Klaw XCR & XCF, HMF slipon, Cascade brake block off, UNI filter, no airbox lid, JE 416 10.8:1, Hotcams Stage 2, stock suspension for now.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    300

  5. #15
    Guest

    jeepdude key?

    what kinda key is that your using jeepdude?

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Northern CA
    Posts
    281

    Re: jeepdude key?

    Originally posted by Jumbo747
    what kinda key is that your using jeepdude?
    Just some cheap re-cut I guess... it came with the quad when I bought it. I've thought about getting the little black Honda one but it doesn't really seem worth it... I'll probably just take the key switch out altogether.
    2002 400EX, Arens Steering Stem, Arens nerfs, Renthal 787 bars, MSR Raptor clutch lever, 14/39 gears, X-Ring chain, Kenda Klaw XCR & XCF, HMF slipon, Cascade brake block off, UNI filter, no airbox lid, JE 416 10.8:1, Hotcams Stage 2, stock suspension for now.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •