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make sure to check clearances for each valve (where the bucket is)
ok, so put the new shims on the little circle marked on the valve, and slide the bucket over it. the bucket should just glide in, DO NOT push it. if it does not just set in, you are not puttin it in at the right angle. it takes a big of finnaglling to get the hang of it.
so put the cams in with the timing marks i showed you before, put the cam stay on and torque the bolts to 7ft lbs of torque and check that your still at TDC (down by the timing plugs) and then release the tension of your chain SLOWLY. now recheck your clearances. if you are doin this on your own, it may take a couple of trys to get the hang of it. it is more time consuming than it is hard.
once you got everything together, DOUBLE, TRIPLE check little things such as timing, clearances, makin sure the cams are in the right spot etc. etc. slap the gasket back on with the head cover and you will be good to go. enjoy your newly tuned machine!!!
if anyone finds ANY room for improvement in this article, just hollar at me ;)
--wolffie
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good write up! this should help alot of guys not just people with predators. lots of good info!
btw your inbox is full
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Great thread. I must ask, what made you think your quad needed reshimmed? What's some symptoms to look for.
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thanks for the comments guys (trx23rider, i cleaned the box out man:D )
kc8pnd, most people adjust their valves after every 25-35 hours i believe because they stretch out and you usually hear a slight "pinging" noise after you hit the throttle. For some odd reason, i had the other extreme; my intake side valves tightened WAY UP(there wasnt even any clearance when i checked them) the problem i had is the thing wouldnt start with the starter, you had to manually "pop start it". after the quad was warmed up, the clearances would stretch out and everything would be ok. of course, then after a bit they would tighten up again and you would have to redo the whole process, lol!
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I went to the dealer today and talked to chadhix, he said try a plug in mine because it is not starting from a cold start. The plug never fixed anything. I have to choke + pull the carb to airbox tube off to get it to start. After I crank and crank with the starter it slowly fires up, once warm its fine, it fires right up. I think my shims are flat! Thanks for the write up, I might be doing this in the next few weeks.
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so basically your machine wont start worth a ****, but then when you get her started shes ok for abit??
assuming you jetting is right and you have no airleaks, i would say your clearances are too tight.
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It started starting hard slowly. I ride it hard most of the time for 1 to 2 hours every weekend. I would say close to 3 to 4 hours a week. As I said before it slowly started to do this, before I had to crank it over 3 or 4 times then a few weeks later choke it and now I have to take the air tube off. I think its the shims. There is no power loss that I can tell, this thing rips when its not spinning.
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does it backfire at all under decceleration? im willing to bet you need some bigger shims. if you got time, tear the beast down and order a shim kit. just follow my guide and you should be fine. if you encounter any questions along the way, just PM me and i can do my best to help you out.:)
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I don't notice any backfiring. It does blow gas vapor back out the carb (white mist) some times. I did order the shim kit, from hotcams so it was $90 :( never seen this thread till today, ordered it yesterday. O need to download a service manual from somewhere, I seen one a while back but never downloaded it.
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yeah download it because IMHO, the Predator's owner manual is not very good. i bought one and find it less than stellar.:ermm: they dont do alot of "explaining", and there are very few pictures.