just got my 1st banshee, have some?

Hey all just got my 1st banshee today. Its a basket case. Literally, the motor was in 2 totes, dint have to give much for it and the frame and stuff is all good and strait. He said he did a pressure test on it and it lost 3psi in 6min so he was in the process of putting crank seals in it and needed money for something else. My questions are
1: what all do i need to look for other than just general wear and tear in the lower end?
2:when i put it back together do i have to sync the carbs some how?
3:he said he mixed his gas 32:1. This good? Book calls for less.
4:he said that i should get the tors delete kit that it makes tunning alot easier. Good or bad?
5: what else in general are common issues with banshees? I know a bit more maintenace, its mainly stock. Fmf pipes and weisco pistons. Bored. 10 over but i havent ran the part # to be sure of that.

Any info appreciated

32:1 is what I recommend and run in my 00 Banshee and 89 TRX250R. Eliminate the TORS, pretty much everyone that has a Banshee gets rid of those units. You can buy a Motion Pro kit to elmiminate them very easily. You drill, tap and file the carb to instal an idle adjust screw.

I also bought a banshee in cases. In reply to your questions...

1. Check the crank bearings for play. A little side to side movement is okay, but make sure there is no up and down movement. When I rebuilt my banshee motor, I noticed one of the bearings had some dirt and grim so I soaked them in cleaner and lubricated them.

2. I didn't have to do this

3. I have been running 32:1 and like that ratio much better than 40:1.

4. My basket case banshee had the TORS removal kit on them. It makes it very easy to tune the carbs by just turning the air/fuel screw on the outside of the carb.

5. Only issues i'm aware of is they are addicting. Haha. My thumb throttle seems really stiff, but it does have dual carbs so I'm guessing that does not help.

Good luck on the build.

i did some very close looking at the crank bearings. they are all in spec on clearances and all roll nicely but they all have a little ear sticking out of them except for the one on the right hand side (right side if your sitting on the bike). it looks like it has a ear on it but it is pushed into the bearing or broke off and hardly sticking out. dont look like the bearing has spun in the case at all. if i replace this 1 bearing do i need to replace all 4 crank bearings or can i just replace this one bearing?

I cant wait to get this thing fired up! im going to the dunes in waynoka Easter weekend to give it a work out!

I have never replaced a crank bearing yet, but if you have the motor this far apart...do it right and replace all four. It might cost a little more, but at least you know you have fresh bearings. It would suck for a bearing to go later in the summer.

true, they are like $34.00 from the dealer here in town. that's for OEM stuff. I asked him about putting the bearings on the crank and he said he would and he could but he does not weld them. Is the welding part something i can do? I have a Mig and a Arc. Also have a tig rig but i haven't even practiced with it yet.

I really have no clue. I have a wiseco crank in my banshee.

And this forum doesn't have a lot of banshee owners. Try bansheeHQ...they are really helpful and lots of information on that site.

10-4, was hoping there was more banshee guys on here so i didn't have to go to another forum. oh well just another log in name and pass word i will forget. lol. thanks for your responses tho

Sorry for the delayed reply.

Don't cheap out. You're that far down, replace the outer crank bearings. The inner ones are not replaceable unless the crank is split. You can go stock, but if you don't mind spending the extra money I would go with max load bearings.

Inspect rod play. A little giggle side to side is fine, but there should be no play up and down.

Get the motor bored to the next size and start nice and fresh with new pistons.

Yeah, it'll cost a little money, but the motor will be restored to it's stock bullet-proof state. No sense in not doing it while its apart.

Might want to look into a shift star too, makes shifting more precise.

32:1 is all I run and all I will ever run.

To get the carbs in sync, when it's all back together, have someone hold the throttle wide open. (With the bike shut off) On the side of the carbs, there is a little window on the side of the slides. Adjust the cables so that you see the little "ping" dot on the slide centered directly in that window. Do this for both carbs. There you go, not as accurate as a vaccumm gauge but it will get you damn close.

TORS removal is not necessary. I just have mine unplugged and use the factory idle screws.