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got any more pics of your bike standing still, all angles ?Quote:
Originally posted by jefteland
1988 BLASTER YFS85, 1996 banshee spindles and disk frt brakes, 2005 DVX400 rear hydro brake. fully gusseted frame. FOX floats all the way around (even rear). plus 1 1/4" steering stem
Ok..so Ive been building a bike for my daughter to ride in the dunes.
Here are some pics and Ill describe it's build later.
http://i1197.photobucket.com/albums/...r/IMG_0360.jpg
http://i1197.photobucket.com/albums/...r/IMG_0361.jpg
http://i1197.photobucket.com/albums/...r/IMG_0359.jpg
http://i1197.photobucket.com/albums/...r/IMG_0355.jpg
http://i1197.photobucket.com/albums/...r/IMG_0353.jpg
http://i1197.photobucket.com/albums/...r/IMG_2743.jpg
http://i1197.photobucket.com/albums/...r/IMAG0158.jpg
http://i1197.photobucket.com/albums/...r/IMAG0155.jpg
http://i1197.photobucket.com/albums/..._2548835_n.jpg
1998 chassis
yamaha banshee rear hydraulic brake conversion
+4 swing arm
400ex rear shock (polished & chromed)
JJ&A billet round house carrier
+4 banshee G-Force axle
AC Racing grab bars F&R
Cascade Innovations seat cover, polished billet front resi cover, handlebar clamp, license plate holder, rear tail light cover, engine oil cap,
Tusk billet gas cap
Applied Racing ball bearing EZ pull clutch lever
Motion Pro throttle and clutch cables
Maier carbon print plastic with new long nose.
Snyder Motorsports +3 long travel (16.25" long shocks) a-arms and Banshee hydraulic brakes.
Honda 400ex thumb throttle
FMF fatty pipe and silencer
V Force 3 reeds
26mm banshee carb
ITP Sand Stars F&R on ITP rims
I will be installing a set of Trail Tech HID's once I get the battery installed and a rectifier built to charge it.
I have a couple of full carbon fiber axle beams (34" long) that are ground to 40mm. Once I get the key ways cut and all the aluminum hubs shaved for weight Ill install that too. The axle alone will shave off over 35 lbs from the rear of the bike.
Then Ill replace the lightened front hubs with a set of JJ&A 3 spoke wheels F&R.
I should be able to get this bike down to around 275 lbs ready to ride.
The motor is stock, except some casting smoothing and a slightly shaved head for more compression.
I'd be ecstatic to have that in the dunes.....no telling what your daughter will think. Sick blaster dunatic, keep us posted.
the bike ran flawless until the last ride. it developed an air leak somewhere and popped a hole in the top of the piston from being lean and detonating.
But until that point, it was a kick to ride. The only lil spin I took on it (and Im 250+ lbs) it hauled the mail just fine.
Im sure with my lil 100 daughter it rips.
just about every time she would stop around others, both dads and sons would oggle over it. In fact some would ask "what kinda bike is that?" with the different nose, carbon print plastics and non OEM colors it makes it kinda hard to recognize it right away.
Sounds like you had a pre-ignition because of the hole in the top of the piston and there was a hotspot in the cylinder, be it a gasket of shard of metal. Spark plug and carbon build up can do that to but i doubt you had old plugs or enough ride time to build up carbon in that fresh rebuild haha.
too lean in the middle. Im installing an EGT and Cyl Head temp Digitron guage on it now. No more doing that kinda stuff.
Im running a Toomey needle on the middle clip position and a 320 main. It was very crisp, just a lil too crisp.
so Im gonna jump up to a 340-350 main, raise the needle on position and advance the timing 1-2 degrees.
340 or so jet seems like it'll do the trick. Sounds like you're really close to having it dialed in. The egt should help quite a bit with that, thats a pretty good idea.
ive had to do that before with a BIG 250r motor I built years ago when i just was running it too tight (compression/timing/jetting) and it would eat pistons every time out.