Having a tough time getting my rear axle out

I have a 2002 400ex and the bearings in the carrier are shot so I started to take it apart watching a tutorial on youtube to guide me along. I am almost there, but can't get the aluminum piece that holds my brake rotor on to come off. Accidentally broke one of the ears off trying to get it loose with a hammer, bad idea I know but I wasn't thinking. Soaked it with PB Blaster as well and it still wont budge. The axle nuts and clips are all off so I can't see what else would be holding it. What should I do?

I am not sure what you are referring to, the brake rotor assembly just slides off the axle after the lock nut and axle clip are removed. There is no reason to remove the rotor from its hub to remove the axle from the bearing carrier if that is what you meant.

Ya I got a feeling you forgot to or didnt see the clip on there, once that clip is removed theres nothing stopping it from sliding off.

Also you dont need to remove the rotor like said above, you should be able to just take out the axle itself and replace the bearings then reinstall the axle.

Unless you bought a whole new carrier with bearings, then it would have to come out I guess :rolleyes:

there is a snap ring that sits up against the brake rotor stay. you need snap ring plyers or some skinny needle nose to get that snap ring off, once it's off it will all slide off.

i have changed a good bit of rear axle bearing and to any one who says it should just come right off there inexperienced. if the caliper, jam nut, collar and c clip are removed and the aluminum rotor hub will still not come off, the new holding force every one is forgetting is corrosion. corrosion especially likes to happen when aluminium is against steel. as it is in this situation.

soooooo since you already broke and ear off it, the hub is junk. i would put a deep score in it with a grinder and a cut off wheel then hit a wedge/chisel in that score to crack it the rest of the way. with that added clearance from the crack the collar could be free to come off. if no do the same 180 degrees from the first and remove the hub in 2 pieces.

for future reference aluminum expands 1.5 times faster then steel so heating the hub will give you extra clearance over the axle to remove the hub. if you have no access to a grinder you can still do this now. light tapping around the hub towards the center of the axle (in relation to the diameter of the axle) can also loosen corrosion.

hope this helps!

I cant help u get the hub off ,but if u need one to replace the one u have ive got one off of a 08 ex in very good shape ill sale

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Originally Posted by qlphoton

I cant help u get the hub off ,but if u need one to replace the one u have ive got one off of a 08 ex in very good shape ill sale

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How much? They are all interchangeable for all years I assume? Mine is a 2002.

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Originally Posted by on the rocks

i have changed a good bit of rear axle bearing and to any one who says it should just come right off there inexperienced. if the caliper, jam nut, collar and c clip are removed and the aluminum rotor hub will still not come off, the new holding force every one is forgetting is corrosion. corrosion especially likes to happen when aluminium is against steel. as it is in this situation.

soooooo since you already broke and ear off it, the hub is junk. i would put a deep score in it with a grinder and a cut off wheel then hit a wedge/chisel in that score to crack it the rest of the way. with that added clearance from the crack the collar could be free to come off. if no do the same 180 degrees from the first and remove the hub in 2 pieces.

for future reference aluminum expands 1.5 times faster then steel so heating the hub will give you extra clearance over the axle to remove the hub. if you have no access to a grinder you can still do this now. light tapping around the hub towards the center of the axle (in relation to the diameter of the axle) can also loosen corrosion.

hope this helps!

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Thanks! Is it possible to have it welded? There's a shop here in town that does aluminum welding and was going to see if they could patch it up if I don't destroy it getting it off. I figured it was corrosion, it is legal to ride on the street here in Montana so I think it got some road chemicals in there.

just water could be enough to corrode it on to the splines of the axle.

if a shop it willing to weld it i would try it if getting another turns out to be difficult. with 3 tabs to reference the one broken one off of they should be able to get it straight. now it is cast aluminum so that could be the deciding factor. im not up to par on welding aluminum.

your welcome though.

Bro for the cost of welding it you could buy a new or used one on ebay:muscle: