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Wingnut
03-22-2004, 09:24 AM
I'm having trouble with my batteries. I don't think it's the overcharging thing because the battery can still be recharged. I have had the stock battery and two of the YT12A-BS batteries die. My fan runs a lot and I race with the lights on, so is it possible that the battery is actually being drained faster than it is charging? I know the lights don't run off the battery, but the fan does.

Pappy
03-22-2004, 09:28 AM
turn off the lights. the charging system cant keep up with the fan and the lights. the charging system is supplying all it can and then the battery is being drained because current demand is higher then available output

trx11t
03-22-2004, 10:20 AM
Why is your fan running all the time. The only time mine has ever even turned on is when I leave it idling for a long time.
Something must not be right. I would check your radiator cap or maybe even your water pump seal.

Pappy
03-22-2004, 10:25 AM
his ran runs alot during the 2 hour long races he participates in.

jlhughes750
03-22-2004, 11:34 AM
Pappy, Hey I know your the batery guru and all, but this YFZ battery issue make 0 sense... we both run into and talk to alot of racers right!! Well I'm gettin so many different combos of problems its a lil confusing...

heres my 2 cents: first of all 2 hour race or not Wingnuts got a cooling problem. My fan has run 2 times since i bought it. I ran the last 2 weeks at the Dutchmen for 1.5 hours in the slop....no fan running????? His bike may be jetted too lean and causing it to run hotter, or not using the right fuel???? Both times my fan turned on was before it was jetted properly, after i beat the snot outta it and let it sit runnin.

I still have the stock battery. It was dead over the winter everytime i try'd to start it(0-10degrees out) after it charged a while it would fire and i rode no problem. Since we do dead engine starts I do a long slow charge for a few hours before every race. Last week a guy at the race had a big battery with no lights on, charged the day before right from the box.. after 2 laps at the Dman it fried the battery real bad, the bike wont even try to turn over???? Ive talked to EXkid, the dealer he works for sold 9 and had to replace relays under warranty on 6 of them.

Another thing to keep in mind. Do u know why the new Honda 450R has a hotstart button?????? Well then a battery thats already borderline too weak to start the bike, might have a problem turning over a high po engine that just got stalled while u were dumping fuel into the top end!!!!!After a few minute it may turn over again????

batterys
relays
hard hot starts(after u stall it while while beating the pulp outta it)
I do not think there is one problem, I think there may be a few problems people are having.

Pappy
03-22-2004, 11:41 AM
Originally posted by jlhughes750


Another thing to keep in mind. Do u know why the new Honda 450R has a hotstart button?????? Well then a battery thats already borderline too weak to start the bike, might have a problem turning over a high po engine that just got stalled while u were dumping fuel into the top end!!!!!After a few minute it may turn over again????

batterys
relays
hard hot starts(after u stall it while while beating the pulp outta it)
I do not think there is one problem, I think there may be a few problems people are having.

exactly right. there hasnt been a clear fix because there isnt just one problem. my fan will come on but not constantly.

if it was just a relay it would be an easy fix. typical electrical BS:p all a PITA

5valves
03-22-2004, 11:55 AM
What kind of teather kills switches are you guys using?
My budy and I have had our 450's since mid July and have no issues with battery or hard starting.
My battery has never been on a charger. Even when it was cold.
When we go to the sand I install 2 HID lights with stock stator flywheel and stuff, and ride most of the night will all lights on and still have never had a problem.
He and I are both using Pingel N/C teather kill switches.
we ran the switch in series with the kill switch on the handle bar.
Both of us being from the Electrical back ground where no way going to ground the elecrical system of this machine like a 2 stroke is done.
Just something to think about.
Good luck

Wingnut
03-22-2004, 12:00 PM
It does run hotter than any other YFZ I've ridden with. If anyone has any tips on how to get it to run cooler I'd like to hear it. It is jetted richer than stock all around, but maybe not enough.

jlhughes750
03-22-2004, 02:27 PM
Originally posted by 5valves
[B
He and I are both using Pingel N/C teather kill switches.
we ran the switch in series with the kill switch on the handle bar.
Both of us being from the Electrical back ground where no way going to ground the elecrical system of this machine like a 2 stroke is done.
Just something to think about.
Good luck [/B]


can u explain more about what u meant by not grounding them like a 2 stroke???????

littlepick2000
03-22-2004, 02:44 PM
I have 2 yfz's with 400ex batteries installed in them both and I had not had a problem until this weekend when my battery died on the last lap. On one of my bikes i installed 250r louvers and it seems to run a little cooler. i run 50/50 klotz and 94 pump gas. I need to know what to do to help this problem. Should i run engine ice or get a heavier duty ingintion setup from ricky stator if they have one. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

5valves
03-22-2004, 03:32 PM
This is just understanding and it may not be correct.

With a typical kill switch N/O (normaly open contacts) You connect one lead to an ignition wire and the other to ground. When your switch is pulled it closes the switch taking your igniton or what ever you tied the other wire to to ground.
It just never sounded good to me to ground the ignition on this type of system.
With a N/C kill switch the contacts are closed until the cord is pulled. This enables you to wire it in series with your handle bar mounted switch so if either switch is opened up your bike wont run. This way you are just adding another switch, and not grounding anything that isnt sapposed to be grounded.

Like I have said grounding your system may be fine I just kinda wonder if some people may be grounding out there battery somewhere bye doing so.

Just a thought.
Any comments on this are great I am just throwing out an idea.

Thanks

ex kid
03-22-2004, 05:10 PM
as for making the bike run cooler:
-it aleady has air scoops from the facotry.
-if you take off the lights you'll get a little for flow
-engine ice may help, i've heard good things
-Maxima's coolant is also good stuff
-you could try to find a replacement NGK plug that is a colder heat range.
find out what some of the pro's at the GNCC's are running.

electrical wise:
yes my shop has had many come back for "the battery problem" and i beilve our head wrench has been replacing or changing the rectifitor/regulator and replacing the battery. i would seriously consider Yamaha GYTR kickstart option if they don't step up soon with a fix. i havn't seen a service bulliten or recall yet. that might be because they have a recall out on the Raptor right now.

Pappy have you found a battery that works better than stock. i tried to fit a YTX/BTX-9-BS but it was slightly too big.

Pappy
03-22-2004, 05:12 PM
hell just switching to a yuasa stock replacement is a good move.

the upgrade does require mods to the tray but so far so good.

and i agree kick starter would be cool but without a hotstart button i dunno how well it would work

holeshot19
03-22-2004, 05:53 PM
seems like when he is on the line he starts his when the other lines take off but when its his turn the thing just clicks hits the starter button 5 or six times before it turns over go figure he charges the battery slowly before the start of the races and he said there were a lot of guys chargeing theres at the races

xcyfz450
03-23-2004, 09:17 PM
i just replaced mine with a basttery from a cbr 929 re 2001 it has 190 cold cranking amps was a lil bigger had to modify battery box but it works AWESOME so far

Wingnut
04-04-2004, 09:01 PM
Well, it died again at Big Buck.:( I tried some water wetter and removed the headlights, but the fan still ran almost constantly.

Does anyone know at what temperature the fan is supposed to come on? I'm not too sure that it is actually overheating. I've never seen the oil temp light come on and the engine seems to cool off quicker than my 400EX's engine after a race.

Pappy
04-05-2004, 06:41 AM
is there a switch or modulator that controls when the fan operates? if so id be replacing it.

EvilJester400EX
04-05-2004, 08:00 AM
Originally posted by Wingnut
It does run hotter than any other YFZ I've ridden with. If anyone has any tips on how to get it to run cooler I'd like to hear it. It is jetted richer than stock all around, but maybe not enough.

I'm not sure if you want to spend money on this or not, but an oversize radiator would be a great fix. What is your jetting at right now? I think mine's at a 168 main, 46 pilot.

Wingnut
04-05-2004, 09:10 AM
With everything stock, I have a 45 pilot, needle on the 5th position, and either a 163 or 165 main (I can't remember which, I've tried both).

EvilJester400EX
04-05-2004, 09:19 AM
Have you changed to a higher heat resistant coolant maybe?

Wingnut
04-05-2004, 09:36 AM
Not yet, but it's on my list of things to try.

EvilJester400EX
04-05-2004, 09:59 AM
Sounds like a plan, let me know how it turns out.

04-05-2004, 02:54 PM
Seems like a recall needs to take place...:confused:

holeshot19
04-06-2004, 07:22 PM
today i installed a bigger batter in vic yamadog, the time has been blowing fuses and the battery seems weak so i cut out the plastic and installed a battery out of the 400ex seems to work ok till i order him a gsxr battery

AlaskaSpeed
04-07-2004, 10:23 AM
I took the stock rectifier out of the equation, for less than 30.00 you can get an improved rectifier from Trailtech that will take care of this issue. I never had a battery problem, but I have friends here that had to have their stock rectifiers replaced, besides the batteries; only for it to happen again with another stock rectifier. I am no expert, but maybe the stock rectifiers aren't really able to regulate the current like they should.
As for the kickstart kit, well worth the security of knowing your bike will always start and not leave you stranded...and it starts first or second kick every time for me....JIM

J37MX
04-11-2004, 01:16 AM
Ive read alot of different posts about what people did to get the battery to keep a charge but I still dont know what the best cure is. I have a friend with a YFZ and hes had some trouble with the battery not keeping a charge but not all the time. Just at one time he was having alot of trouble. Im going to be getting a YFZ as soon as I sell my 416ex and im wondering what I should do to it first as far as knowing that my battery is going to keep a charge. I dont want a kickstart kit and I dont want to be at the starting line and have the battery go dead which is my main concern because im into mostly racing. It sounds as if the improved recitifier from Trailtech helped Alaskaspeed to not have anymore problems. Im wondering if this is the cure. Has anybody else tried it? How'd it work? Thanks

AlaskaSpeed
04-11-2004, 08:25 AM
Originally posted by J37MX
Ive read alot of different posts about what people did to get the battery to keep a charge but I still dont know what the best cure is. I have a friend with a YFZ and hes had some trouble with the battery not keeping a charge but not all the time. Just at one time he was having alot of trouble. Im going to be getting a YFZ as soon as I sell my 416ex and im wondering what I should do to it first as far as knowing that my battery is going to keep a charge. I dont want a kickstart kit and I dont want to be at the starting line and have the battery go dead which is my main concern because im into mostly racing. It sounds as if the improved recitifier from Trailtech helped Alaskaspeed to not have anymore problems. Im wondering if this is the cure. Has anybody else tried it? How'd it work? Thanks

Not sure if any others here have gone to the Trailtech rectifier, but give Trailtech a call. They are very helpful and will explain why their full wave rectifier is better than the half wave stock unit. www.trailtech.net JIM

660bigdaddy
04-11-2004, 05:17 PM
the time has been blowing fuses and the battery seems weak
check your wireing. my buddies yfz was blowing fuses and found a spot in the wiring by the left headlight that was rubbed through and was shorting out on the frame.

WOracing
04-12-2004, 03:31 PM
its awesome not having a battery...i love my 450r:D

AlaskaSpeed
04-12-2004, 04:10 PM
Originally posted by WOracing
its awesome not having a battery...i love my 450r:D

I don't have a battery either.....

CatMostFeared
04-13-2004, 05:14 AM
I'm going to call trailtech today and find out more info.

465Stroker
04-13-2004, 05:23 AM
Has anyone checked to make sure your stator is working properly?

CatMostFeared
04-13-2004, 02:38 PM
I never had any problems but I went ahead and order a bigger battery and trail tech rectifier from THEQUADSHOP today just for insuance.I dont want to take a chance at any races. :macho

BUCK442
04-14-2004, 09:20 AM
We talked with Benson over at FST and he does not even have a fan on his YFZ. He was talking about something that allows it to run just as cool without it. You might talk to them. They are usually very nice about that type of stuff.

CatMostFeared
04-14-2004, 10:43 AM
Originally posted by BUCK442
We talked with Benson over at FST and he does not even have a fan on his YFZ. He was talking about something that allows it to run just as cool without it. You might talk to them. They are usually very nice about that type of stuff.

They run a bigger raditor,bigger oil rezzy, and some kind of liquid that doesnt boil until 140 degrees I'll find out more next race were almost next to them in the pits.They dont even run a over flow bottle.

jjgixxer
05-08-2004, 06:18 PM
im getting a yfz here in like a week was susposed to be today but guess not now if the battery dies will it still run ? if it dies wont start cant i pull start it too get it run or will it not run at all with the battery dead?

Quad18star
05-08-2004, 09:46 PM
Originally posted by 465Stroker
Has anyone checked to make sure your stator is working properly? Thats what my problem is .... I have a faulty stator according to my mechanic .... bike still runs as long as i keep the battery charged .

yamadog
05-12-2004, 05:27 AM
I keep a spare battery, that I bring to the mideast, and GNCC that I can come too. I used to get the dead battery issues only when my jetting wasn't correct and I would try to crank it for a limited time. But I usually check or charge mine before each race.
The best think to do is check it, make sure it has over 12.8 v-15 v. Then you know you are good to go. If you have in-between12.0-12.7 needs a good charge. If you are below 12.0 v, replace the battery.
Wingnut if you are having heating issues with the fan coming on just go through a few troublshooting step.
-assuming jetting is correct
- assuming good oil
-replace radiator fluid, make sure you are getting fluid moving to cool it water pump is working or not. Need the correct pressure too.
-Make sure the cooling fins are not all mangled up. If so seperate them individually with a flat tip screwdriver. (it takes a while, may need to pull a chair and have a six pack near by)
-Bad switch or relay somewhere.
One of these should take care of it. I run about the same setup, my fan hardly ever comes on, if so it will go off shortly.

yamadog
05-12-2004, 05:27 AM
I keep a spare battery, that I bring to the mideast, and GNCC that I can come too. I used to get the dead battery issues only when my jetting wasn't correct and I would try to crank it for a limited time. But I usually check or charge mine before each race.
The best think to do is check it, make sure it has over 12.8 v-15 v. Then you know you are good to go. If you have in-between12.0-12.7 needs a good charge. If you are below 12.0 v, replace the battery.
Wingnut if you are having heating issues with the fan coming on just go through a few troublshooting step.
-assuming jetting is correct
- assuming good oil
-replace radiator fluid, make sure you are getting fluid moving to cool it water pump is working or not. Need the correct pressure too.
-Make sure the cooling fins are not all mangled up. If so seperate them individually with a flat tip screwdriver. (it takes a while, may need to pull a chair and have a six pack near by)
-Bad switch or relay somewhere.
One of these should take care of it. I run about the same setup, my fan hardly ever comes on, if so it will go off shortly.

Wingnut
05-12-2004, 07:41 AM
I've done all that you suggested. Lately I haven't been having any trouble. I finally took it to the dealer and they found that the red wire's connector coming from the rectifier was badly burnt up. It was replaced and now the battery is charging and the fan doesn't seem to run as much. Maybe it's fixed for good, I hope so anyway.

Pappy
05-12-2004, 08:16 AM
Originally posted by Wingnut
I finally took it to the dealer and they found that the red wire's connector coming from the rectifier was badly burnt up. .

and IMO the wire was fried due to the rectifier. it cant handle the load/no load situation the way Yamaha has the YFZ charging system designed. The Trailtech is a full wave no load unit and will more then likely be the fastest fix to these issues.