RAD locknut

[kid300ex]

what does it excatly do? does anyone have one ? Im looking into one because my axle nut keeps comeing loose and its bugging me really bad. any help please? also where can i get one of these and how much do they cost

[400MXer]

I have one....they work really good. All it is, a huge nut that has a slit cut into it and a allen head bolt goes throught he slit. then you put it on and get it tight against that pin....then just tighten up the allen head. works great....hasn't budged yet.
A few other people on this forum has and they will tell you the exact same thing i'm telling you....it's worth it.

i'm not really sure where i got mine at....it was out of an ad in dirtwheels. i believe it was like$48 or $50....trust me, it's worth it....and it sure beats spending $200 on an antifade nut.

[CBW]

i have one also....on my atc250r......and it works real well..just like 400MXer said.............get one..:D get it at www.recreationunlimited.com

yup,,,axlenuts are great...get one from whoever,,,they are worth the money..

[Atomic83]

What exactly does an anti-fade do over a RAD locknut?

[CBW]

the claim to fame for the anti-fade is that the disk brake hub is also aluminum and acts as a heat sink for the rotor.......at least that is what they claim........i have an anti fade on my 400 and for the trail riding and jumping and stuff other than racing that i do.........they both work equally well.............

[Scott]

OK, I smell a scam. I'm not targeting Chris, I'm talking about the claim of the ani-fade nut. (Chris didn't make this claim, he just repeated it.)

Someone is going to have to do a lot of talking to explain to me why my solid steel axle is magically unable to conduct heat as well as this $200 aluminum anti-fade nut.

That's total BS, and if anyone would like to explain this to me, I'd be very interested.

PS. All this consulting company deals with is metals, material selection and properties of metals. Metals conduct heat very well. Direct metal to metal contact is normally a pretty good way to conduct heat.

40 lb axle, 2 lb axle nut. Which one is going to be more of a heat sink?:huh

Well for one it costs about 3X as much,,the main purpose for the antifade is it's a brake rotor holder and an axlenut all in one...it's designed to help disapate heat built up on the rotor,,but since I don't hardly ever use my rear brake,,when racing or riding,,I think it's an over priced product,,that you basically are paying for cool looks more than anything. The axle lock nuts on the market will get the job done just as good as the antifade..just won't look as gnarly...:eek:

PS..just got my new LS axcaliber,,and it looks pretty sweet,,,lets hope it holds up longer than my old durablue...

[400exRacerX]

I have the speed racing sure-loc nut. It costed me 45 bucks and was worth every penny. As for the anit-fade hubs I think they are for TT racing more than anything, because of how much you use the brakes in tt style racing. Although in mx racing I use my rear brakes alot in the air and on turns.

[Scott]

The claim that the anti-fade nut provides a heat sink is a bunch of BS.

Heat sinks work based on surface area available to dissipate the heat.

How big is that nut?
Now how much surface area is that compared to the surface area of the axle?

See what I'm getting at?

If you get brake fade, it's going to have a whole lot more to do with the tiny-@$$ brake pads than it is the rotor mounting braket etc. disipating the heat. You've got a huge amount of surface area, in direct metal to metal contact, straight from the factory. Adding a $200 nut isn't going to make your brakes work better.

Originally posted by Scott
Adding a $200 nut isn't going to make your brakes work better.


Nope but it sure will make your rear end look good..:D LOL

Guess I need one for my old lady....ha haaa LMAO

[Guy400]

What I'm wondering about everytime I read these anti-fade advertisements is what cools the nut after it draws the heat away from the rotor? It's not like the rear brake is tucked away inside the wheel where wind wouldn't get to it very efficiently. It's right out there in the open where the wind could pass over it unhindered. You'd be better off leaving a standard nut (or aftermarket lock nut) on the axle and buying a cross-drilled rotor instead if you were really worried about heat.

[Evan]

I am not sure if its from heat but I think it is, my rotor is warped. I noticed it when I was bleeding my brakes. I beat it back straight with a deadblow and it worked fine for a while but it seems it is warped again. I bought one of these antifade jobs with a LSR axle from a guy for my R for 350 so I will see how it goes. I plan on replacing that flimsy rotor pretty soon. BTW does anyone know why you are not suposed to run Silicone DOT 5 in quads? they run it in dirt bikes...so... It would be nice to have the feel of my cousins KTM250 when you hit the brakes, you could easily do endos.

the clostest ul ever get to that is braided lines, new brake pads and disk. the reason it brakes so good is its light.

[RoostinOna400ex]

400MXer... if you try to see if you nut is lose and turn it back and forth does it make a click like it is loss?? Mine does I dont know if my axle nut is lose or if there is just a little play in it? It is the same distance that it goes back to after I tightin it completly!?! :devil Hope Im not hurting anything!!