I need help with my ramp PLEASE

[Rootar]

Im building a steel ramp 5 foot tall 6 foot wide and 12 feet long i need to know how to get the square tubing bent to the correct curve im very familar with radius cause i build skateboard ramps PLEASE help me out here

[Jason1]

despite what others say , this is what i do and it works to a charm


take whatever size tubing your using and get a chop saw with a 7/64's thick blade. cut down 3/4 of the way down the tubing in each cut and make each cut every 6 inches.

bend right around

[biker]

that is a real good idea Jason, or I was thinking a torch as well! goodluck:D

[Rootar]

does thin tubeing work best for the curved then brace it with medium thickness the side tubing is gonna be square 2inch another thing should i put down plywood or sheetmetal or nothing under the expanded steel suface any body got any more ideas me for to make it easyer

[Jason1]

personal opinion:

i hate plywood and i never advise to use it... but other people use it all the time and it seems to work fine so im not going to tell ya what to do there so you should make your own decision, if you care for me to elaborate further on why i think this way i will.


and please explain what you mean exactly by side tubing and medium thickness connected to thin wall and stuff... you totally lost me bro.



biker

i dont recommend a torch on thin gague steel... thats a no no.

[Rootar]

Jason1 go ahead and tell me your thoughts on ply wood and on the pipe thing i was gonna use 14gauge 2inch square tubing on the transition peices and then use a thicker gauge 1 1/2 inch square tubing for the tubes that run horizontal with the transition thats about the best i can explain it with out a pick also i looked at your site nice i might get one someday but now i just need to get used gettin high and not far oh is a 35 degree angle on my 5 foot ramp gonna be right for about a 35-40 foot jump prolly stay at 35
thanks for the help

[Jason1]

thats exactly what i use on my side rails and cross members so i approve of that 100%


why i dont like ply wood.. where do i start.

1. using sheet metal and expanded mesh adds ALOT of strength to your overall ramp. using plywood does not, therefore all your strength must be relied on your side rails and cross memebers.

2. wood is an organic material, it will decay, and its going to need alot more maintenence.

3. you must mix a silica with the paint to get grip, this is going to wear off fairly fast and you will always have to keep reapplying it.. the mesh will always be there and always be sharp.

4. the plywood really isnt as strong, ive seen many a picture online with people with plywood ramps that busted through.. hiting a ramp 2nd -3rd gear tapped then busting through hitting across member is gonna leave the ambulance a nice mess to clean up.

i could go on but im sure you see the picture.

the BEST way to do plywood is to get a straip of 14 gauge 1 foot wide sheet metal and weld up the center of the ramp.. or on a quad ramp get two of them and weld right where the tires will run. so the wood wont press inbetween the rails and use 3/4 inch marine pressure treated wood. put a good solid thick hard paint on it and apply many coats with alot of silica to make it as durable as possible. but if your gonna do all that ... why not just put the sheet metal and expanded on it and be done forever. would be alot less hassel.

[Jason1]

and your ramp.. that sounds safe and tame enough to me.

[Mofo Racing]

I just so happen to work at a plywood plant. Plywood aint as weak as you think it is. The stuff we make is some of the strongest in the country.

[Jason1]

no its not week .. its just like i said its organic and it requires maintenence and what not and its going to wear out quicker than what steel would.

i just dont like the stuff.. like i said personal opinion... the steel has many many many more benefits so i use that

[Rootar]

do i put my cross bars every other joint that i cut?

[Juggalo]

yeah for our rev 3 we did the cut and weld method and it worked out great. we also used ply wood which i would change if i could but the sheet metal and mesh was just to expensive. however we ran 2 strips of metal where the tires go up just like jason said and we ran a 3rd up the middle in case a bike wants to hit it. the woods held up great so far. we just redid the whole ramp and it looks awesome now, i'll post some pics soon

[Jason1]

you guys got a nice clean lookin ramp

rootar, you can space them whatever you want its just what your using for surface that matters... i use 12 awg so i space mine 18-22 inches with 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 14 gauge tubing.

[Disaster]

Once i get more money i hope to get a 5 foot ramp 6 ft wide and 10 feet long that way its more of a kicker action when its bent...

[Rootar]

Jason does this sound right I figured it up and im gonna need a 14 foot piece to cut every 6 inches then i ll cut off whats left after 5 feet high???

[Jason1]

no that doesnt sound quite right