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View Full Version : A-Arm removal



02-26-2002, 06:35 PM
I broke one of my lower A-Arms at a race this weekend. Now I cant get it off. It wont disconnect at the pivot point where it connects to the hub. I was just wondering if it is pressed in? If not it must just be bent.

kabd69667
02-26-2002, 06:51 PM
Like the ball joint?

beerock
02-26-2002, 06:55 PM
your a-arms are connected to a SPINDLE.

There is a trick way to get the BALL JOINTS out of the a-arm

loosen the bolts on the top and bottom until they are about to come off.
take a socket (you may need to use a extended socket)and put it in between the bottom and top bolt loosen the bolt until the socket pushes the ball joint out of the
a-arm

If you have half a brain you can decipher what I said and it should work for you.

It works for me. AND I never ruin a dust boot!

I hope this helps!

02-26-2002, 07:24 PM
Sorry, im not trying to get the ball joint out of the a-arm, im trying to get the a-arm out of the spindle. I just cant get the one bolt free from the spindle and was wondering if it is pressed in.

02-27-2002, 08:02 AM
under the dust boot you can fit a thin wrench on the ball joint adn then you can turn the bottom one while holding the top and it'll come loose,,,your tryin to get the ball joint loose from the knuckle I'm guessing,,and yes it is a bear to get loose,,I almost lost a finger tryin to get one of mine loose..

02-28-2002, 11:14 PM
I used this thread as my guide to remove my with no problem. That tip with the socket really helped out, saved my wife from hearing all sorts of foul language.

Now on install I have a small problem. My new upper ball joints work so well, that I can't finger out how to tighten it. Rico, you've done this, what's the trick? The lower one tightened up just fine, but the upper ball joint just spins. There are no flat spots to grab on to. What did you do?

Thanks!

03-01-2002, 07:39 AM
fatboy,,your upper ball joints don't look like the ones in this pic??

Notice there's 2 nuts to tighten the ball joint down.

03-01-2002, 09:21 AM
Well, yes and no. Based on your picture, I only have one nut and there is only room for one so I gather that that part is okay. What I am referring to is the other nut, which secures the ball joint to the knuckle/spindle assy. You know, the one I used the socket trick to break free. The bottom one popped in just fine so far as I can tell, but the upper just spins. With the exception of the two nuts that mount the ball joint to the arm, mine looks the same as yours.


Thanks!

p.s. almost forgot, will I re-use the factory brake line clamp that is located on the upper ball-joint to knuckle assy or route the new lines differently?

03-01-2002, 09:28 AM
Actually, my upper ball joint is different than yours, and there is no boot on the upper either. It may have something to do with the long travel thing. Anyways, just read your reply about using the c-clamp for this situation, thanks a bunch!

03-01-2002, 09:43 AM
Just spoke to Houser (called them about initial camber setting). They said 4° in at top (approx 5/8" to 3/4" at top of tire). They agree with the c-clamp thing, and it seems that I can re-use the stock brake line guide on the knuckle. I guess I'll see y'all when its done! Thanks for the input!