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View Full Version : Port and Polish?



hunda400ex
01-27-2004, 07:01 PM
What is the process to do this? is it hard and how much of a difference will it make on my 416?

01-27-2004, 08:34 PM
im kind of wondering about that too, and iknow alot of people on here have it done so come on and give some info!:cool:

QuadJunkies
01-28-2004, 12:33 AM
All I know is mine is getting done as we speak..........:D :blah:

honduh440
01-28-2004, 01:36 AM
well u cant just do it yourself but if you get a bigger bore on ur bike all the horsepower comes from the port work its basically just opening up ur head for more air flow i got my 440 kit and their wasnt to much difference but after the port work it was amazing difference

01-28-2004, 08:56 AM
I had GT thunder do a XC port on my head about a month ago. It wasn't a full blown $350 race port. Laz just worked his magic in a few bad casting spots from when the head was made and opened it up a little. After getting the head back on and opening up the airbox lid with one of his air tubes I noticed a nice gain in power. I think the bored out stock carb helped the power difference also.

IS porting worth the money = He11 yeah :D

Mofo Racing
01-28-2004, 10:24 AM
is there a website that explains the port & polish process. I would really like to know exactly what is done and how it is done. :huh

250rider
01-28-2004, 04:44 PM
i had it done to mine and it made a world of difference, all it bascally is letting a dierct flow of air instead of goin around something and making everything smooth and take down all the corners and make them round, better air flow=more power

JP400ex
01-28-2004, 05:25 PM
Originally posted by 250rider
i had it done to mine and it made a world of difference, all it bascally is letting a dierct flow of air instead of goin around something and making everything smooth and take down all the corners and make them round, better air flow=more power

Hey 250rider, what size main jet are you running? I have close to the same setup you do and when i got mine the guy had a 200 main jet in it and it was hesitating real bad. The lowest i've gotten it so far is 185, whenever i put a 175 in it pops alot like its to lean. Everybody on here says I should have like a 158 or 160 but theres no way im sticking that in if the 175 is running lean. And these are Kehin jets were talking about.

One thing i was told is the jet size is going to vary depending on who did the porting to the head. I guess some people port it more than others which requres a larger main jet size.

northeast400
01-28-2004, 06:40 PM
mine seem to work more on the top end. but well worth it I have a few tips, but by no means a pro.

01-28-2004, 06:51 PM
Having your head ported varies from the guy doing it to how much cash you got.

Prices vary on port work. Anywere from $50 to $350. If you go with a full race port it works best when you got the hammer down. Full race porting does not work too good if your pokin down the trail. It is for hardcore, wide open throttle racers, not Jim Bob that likes to tool around on the farm in 2nd gear.

2 strokes really wake up to porting just like they do when you add a pipe.

I"m no porting guru by any means but I do want to explain that porting is an artwork and if not done correctly it will cause your motor to run worse than bone stock.

This pic shows the fresh metal exposed after porting..:cool:

http://ricoracing.netfirms.com/misc_pics/exhaust_port.jpg

250rider
01-28-2004, 06:53 PM
i seriously dont know what jet i am running bc the place where i got my motor done at did all the work and they did a full race port so are jets would probably a lil different ne way

01-28-2004, 06:55 PM
My jetting went up 1 size after I had the head ported. BUT,,,,, I also opened the airbox lid up a little to let more air in. I'd say jetting can change but it's not going to be anything drastic or difficult to dial in.

chad502ex
01-28-2004, 07:24 PM
My NASCAR machinist explained a little to me about the process of port/flow work while he flowed my 502 head. Anyway, he explained that alot of people try this in thier own garage (garage mechs) and totally screw things up bad! Even notable engine builders do not have the knack for good port/flow work even though they claim increased cfm. According to my machinist, he said that flow benching heads for maximum cfm is what is really the most decieving part of the process. Most ppl port for max cfm's which is desireable but the real trick is to insure that the sonic wave from the longitudinal wave in the motor that exits the exhaust ports is not disrupted. These sonic waves is what moves forward and backwards inside the exhust pipe. Standing Sonic waves can be moved forward and back depending on the area of the port that is removed. In other words, He explained that if you remove from the bottom part of the exhaust port you get more top end, and if you remove more from the top part you get more low end. There is a little lip on the bottom side of the exhuast port (he pointed it out to me) and said that removing this totally disrupts the sonic wave and performance could depreciate as a result. The real thing is I met my machinist after a friend sent his 502 head to FastByGast and my machinist busted tuns more power after them- and they race NHRA drag bikes. The best part of his work is he charges me and friends $150. Great prices.

Hope this helps.

chad502ex.com

chad502ex
01-28-2004, 07:34 PM
Originally posted by chad502ex
, He explained that if you remove from the bottom part of the exhaust port you get more top end, and if you remove more from the top part you get more low end.


sorry, reverse above.

doh!

chad502ex.com

01-28-2004, 07:40 PM
Originally posted by chad502ex
sorry, reverse above.

doh!

chad502ex.com

Yeah my head has more takin off at the bottom compared to the top..

chad502ex
01-28-2004, 07:54 PM
Originally posted by Rico
Yeah my head has more takin off at the bottom compared to the top..

yea i ws babbling too much and got a bit corn-fused! LOL

oh well.

chad

Chef
01-28-2004, 08:03 PM
Those ports look awful rough Rico...Not bashing it, but did you have a polish done, or just the porting?

chad502ex
01-28-2004, 08:08 PM
Originally posted by Chef
Those ports look awful rough Rico...Not bashing it, but did you have a polish done, or just the porting?

Chef, I though the same, but wasn't going there. But since you did, well,.......

just kidd'n

chad502ex.com

01-28-2004, 08:11 PM
Originally posted by Chef
Those ports look awful rough Rico...Not bashing it, but did you have a polish done, or just the porting?

Why you bein mean to me???


j/k


That is just a mild XC port no polish at all. Not much money involved but it definitly helped. No offence taken.:D

Chef
01-28-2004, 08:16 PM
Originally posted by Rico

That is just a mild XC port no polish at all. Not much money involved but it definitly helped. No offence taken.:D

Ok thats what I was hopin. My ports were as smooth as my sidecases...and well you know what those look like. :cool: :blah:

01-28-2004, 08:36 PM
Originally posted by Chef
Ok thats what I was hopin. My ports were as smooth as my sidecases...and well you know what those look like. :cool: :blah:


Yeah I do............:mad:

Bring that POS to hatfield junior...:D I think some WV sludge would go good with the bling..:o

EX4me
01-28-2004, 08:44 PM
I'm gonna get wex300 father-in-law to do mine. I believe he also does something with nascar. Has a copy of what LRD would do to your head.

Chef
01-28-2004, 09:44 PM
Originally posted by Rico
Yeah I do............:mad:

Bring that POS to hatfield junior...:D I think some WV sludge would go good with the bling..:o

That would be awesome...but I would have to ship the damn thing out there!:mad:

QuadJunkies
01-28-2004, 11:40 PM
Originally posted by Rico
Having your head ported varies from the guy doing it to how much cash you got.

Prices vary on port work. Anywere from $50 to $350. If you go with a full race port it works best when you got the hammer down. Full race porting does not work too good if your pokin down the trail. It is for hardcore, wide open throttle racers, not Jim Bob that likes to tool around on the farm in 2nd gear.

2 strokes really wake up to porting just like they do when you add a pipe.

I"m no porting guru by any means but I do want to explain that porting is an artwork and if not done correctly it will cause your motor to run worse than bone stock.

This pic shows the fresh metal exposed after porting..:cool:

http://ricoracing.netfirms.com/misc_pics/exhaust_port.jpg I know mine is going to run around 280.00 in price

cals400ex
01-29-2004, 01:00 AM
Originally posted by JP400ex
Hey 250rider, what size main jet are you running? I have close to the same setup you do and when i got mine the guy had a 200 main jet in it and it was hesitating real bad. The lowest i've gotten it so far is 185, whenever i put a 175 in it pops alot like its to lean. Everybody on here says I should have like a 158 or 160 but theres no way im sticking that in if the 175 is running lean. And these are Kehin jets were talking about.

One thing i was told is the jet size is going to vary depending on who did the porting to the head. I guess some people port it more than others which requres a larger main jet size.


where is your fuel skrew and clip on the needle at?

JP400ex
01-29-2004, 06:48 AM
Screw is about 2 1/2 turns out and clip is stock position in the middle.

jshtex
01-29-2004, 07:01 AM
JP400ex... We are running a 416 with 11:1, head ported by Thumper Racing and so on. We are running a 195 MJ after 11 pulls on a dyno to get it right. So it is possible that you need that large a MJ.

Aceman
01-29-2004, 07:24 AM
I remember reading on here that when Mickey Dunlap puts a stock carb back on his 500ex he actually has to jet down because the carb gets such a strong signal. Since you've opened up your ports air flow isn't as restricted and flows a lot easier, sending a smaller signal to the carb, making it require a larger mainjet. I could be totally wrong but it seems like that would be the reason for the larger mainjet.

MIKE400EX
01-29-2004, 09:03 AM
Backwards. The BETTER the signal to the carb, the SMALLER the main jet you need. More compression, smaller duration cam, advanced cam timing, less overlap, more ignition advance, bigger engine, higher velocity ports etc... all create a better vacuum signal to the carb. Lower comression, big duration cams, retarded cam and ignition timing, smaller engine, ports that are too big for the application, lousey porting etc... all create a weaker or less uniform vacuum signal. It's a balance of many (more) factors. Get everything to work in harmony and complement other conditions and you'll have the best running motor.

cals400ex
01-29-2004, 12:27 PM
Originally posted by JP400ex
Screw is about 2 1/2 turns out and clip is stock position in the middle.

i would try to put the needle clip in the 4th position at least for the winter months. that may help your popping problem. i have came to the conclusion that the popping is somewhat normal after building your engine and running a straight through pipe. i look for things like a good plug reading and see if my headers are glowing and also see how the bike runs instead of listening for a few pops here and there.

JDiablo
02-08-2004, 07:45 PM
so what would i have to take off my engine for this to be done,im not to much of a engine junky...just the head?and go to a machine shop or w/e or engine builder and tell them i want it ported and polished???

cals400ex
02-10-2004, 12:46 PM
Originally posted by 300exrida
so what would i have to take off my engine for this to be done,im not to much of a engine junky...just the head?and go to a machine shop or w/e or engine builder and tell them i want it ported and polished???


yeah, you will take the head off and send it to an engine builder. i wouldn't let the normal person do this.