how to disassy 400ex rear shock

[david kelsch]

At the base of the shock is a large nut. It goes into the aluminum piece that bolts to the swing arm link. This piece has a small screw on either side that provides adjustment on one side and an unknown function on the other.

My big question is when I get that loose will any shock oil come out and will I need to recharge the nitrogen?

What is the PSI speq for the charge?

Originally posted by david kelsch
At the base of the shock is a large nut. It goes into the aluminum piece that bolts to the swing arm link. This piece has a small screw on either side that provides adjustment on one side and an unknown function on the other.

My big question is when I get that loose will any shock oil come out and will I need to recharge the nitrogen?

What is the PSI speq for the charge?


I'd send it to a trained shock technician:huh

[david kelsch]

Where would the fun be in that. So your saying that we can rock through unknown tracks and trails with riders you don't know, but should fear tearing some mechanical thing down. NEVER.

I understand what your sayin'. Thats why Im asking questions before there is any action.

[papaw]

dont do it no one will charge it unless they do the work on it.i think its because the nitro.if i was putting nitrogen in something that small i would want myself to put it all together.if it blows up in my face its my own fault....

[david kelsch]

I can charge it at work. We rebuild pneumatic hammers that require the nitrogen to be recharged. We have all the required safety equiptment and the fitting is the same on my shock. So getting it recharged isn't a problem.

[tholt]

i got a question for you? are you jsut trying to rebuild the shock or what? if you are just changing the oil or the seals, there is no need to remove the shaft from the lower shock mount. why are you trying to do that?

[fly400ex]

150 psi for the nitrogen

[motoboy66]

I rebuilt the shock on my CR500 a;; the time. Get a service manual, and you will ne fine. 150 PSI sounds right. I would not take the bottom off, there is a nut on the top that comes off. The threads on the bottom are a strange size, so if you mess them up you have to get a new shaft, $$$$.

Todd

[david kelsch]

I was trying to remove the spring retainer to get the shock spring off. Im going to refinish it to match my new color theme. The large ring the spring pushes against doesn't appear to be able to clear the end. On the front shocks, when you compress the spring, the spring retainer can slide down, then off, so the spring can slide off. I pried a little on the center of the rear shock retaining ring, but it didn't look like it was meant to come apart, so I dont think it is the same set up. Looks like you take the end off, then the ring and spring slide off. Is that correct?

As for a service manual, I bought a CD version of the official Honda off EBAY three weeks ago and I guess Im getting screwed cause its still not here. I gotta wonder if the lawyers would even let them tell you how to tear it down anyway.

I appreciate the PSI speq.

[tholt]

to remove the spring, you don ot have to remove the shaft. take the threaded preload colloars that are the top side of the shock on the top of the spring and loosen them all the way off the spring, and you lightly have to compress the spring with your hand and there is like either to half moon shaped pieces on the bottom of the shock spring that you slide out or it is one big piece with a knotch cut out big enough to slide around the shaft. don't really remember what that piece looks like on an ex. but once you remove that piece that spring and the retainer will slide right off and leave the shaft and the rest of the body intact. you should never have to remove the shaft unless it is bent or broke. othen then that never take it loose.
Tim.

[david kelsch]

COOL, THANKS FOR THE INFO.

I did relieve the preload, then tried to lightly pry on the half moon shapes, they didn't budge so I stopped and began my info quest

Ill try again tonight. A little WD40 love juice and a bigger screw driver might be in order.

[tholt]

yeah, if they ever get a lot of dirt in there, they are a pain to get out sometimes. might actually take an extra hand to pull the spring down while you tap it with a screw driver and a hammber possibly. most of the ones i do are usually pretty hard to get out b/c of all the dirt that usually gets packed in there.

Tim.

[BigAl]

Tholt's got it on the spring.
That bottom screw on the clevis is the rebound adjuster, it is just a needle screw that adjusts an orifice opening, be very gentle with it.

I have rebuilt a couple of rear shocks on EXs, it's not too bad if you have a clean organized place to work.

You won't need nitrogen or fluid to work on the spring.

[david kelsch]

THANKS BIG AL FOR THE INFORMATION.

I SEE THE SCALE FROM SOFT TO HARD FOR THE ONE SCREW.

WHAT IS THE SCREW ON THE OTHER SIDE FOR.

I'VE SEEN YOU "OLD AND FAT" GUYS RIDE. I KNOW BETTER