I have seen the light!!!

[exatak199]

ok I was set on geting a 440 kit now I'm going to get a 416 with a XR400 cam Pro Circuit T4 Exhaust with a little somthing extra.........................BoonDocker Nitrous System:eek2: :eek2:

http://www.boondockers.com/images/Img120.jpg

I'm going with the 20 oz bottle (shown up there) measures out to be 11.5” x 3.25”

more info at www.boondockers.com

:devil:

[Bob-Hobo]

cough cough waist of money cough cough:rolleyes:

[UglyMotha™]

Originally posted by Bob-Hobo
cough cough waist of money cough cough:rolleyes:


cough cough looser cough :rolleyes:



grow up some poeple live to drive in a straight line :o


sounds like an arm wrenching setup but i would recomend a better exhaust and a more radical cam though

Originally posted by UglyMotha™



sounds like an arm wrenching setup but i would recomend a better exhaust and a more radical cam though

Not everyone is as crazy as you ugly...:o

[wilkin250r]

Originally posted by Bob-Hobo
cough cough waist of money cough cough:rolleyes:

You think so? I had a little 250x with nitrous that would beat a stock 400EX for as long as I could hold the button down :devil:

[exatak199]

Originally posted by Bob-Hobo
cough cough waist of money cough cough:rolleyes:

you think it's a waist hobo-bob?
ya right!
look at what it does for a predator 500

http://www.boondockers.com/images/Img20.gif


wilkin250r that 250x must go good.

maby a differnt cam would be good but for now I'll stick with a XR 400 cam:blah:

[y2k400ex]

Thats only untill its Hand grenades..........

[Toadz400]

sounds awesome! i wouldn't consider that a waste of money, unless you do XC?:confused: lol

let us know how it goes, someday i'd like to run nitrous in my banshee for drags...but that's after i can afford some cool heads and stronger head bolts.

[Bob-Hobo]

Well guys sorry if i didnt know the guy is only doing drag races but it just seems in any other situation a built motor would be worth it more. As in pushin a lil button all the time to get a boost of power is kinda stupid. How exactly is this a practical modification for a quad, the power is only useful in a strain line and it has to be refilled every so often.:o

[RAPTORAZ]

Originally posted by exatak199
ok I was set on geting a 440 kit now I'm going to get a 416 with a XR400 cam Pro Circuit T4 Exhaust with a little somthing extra.........................BoonDocker Nitrous System:eek2: :eek2:

http://www.boondockers.com/images/Img120.jpg

I'm going with the 20 oz bottle (shown up there) measures out to be 11.5” x 3.25”

more info at www.boondockers.com

:devil:


I'd suggest a different cam. The XR cam is barely bigger than the stock EX cam. I'd recommend a Hotcam stage 1 (for more bottom to mid power) or the Stage 2 (for more mid to top power). Also, with a more radical cam profile, the motor will respond better while on the bottle as well.

you will need to jet it rich so when you hit the button it wont run lean and sieze

[exatak199]

Originally posted by RAPTORAZ
I'd suggest a different cam. The XR cam is barely bigger than the stock EX cam. I'd recommend a Hotcam stage 1 (for more bottom to mid power) or the Stage 2 (for more mid to top power). Also, with a more radical cam profile, the motor will respond better while on the bottle as well.

from what I've heard the XR400 cam is about the same as the hot cams stage 1! (tell me if I'm wrong)
and a want more bottom to mid power cuz thew N.O.S. will take care of the top end:devil:


And no I do NOT do strate drag racing I plan on doing mx/tt (but not useing the noz that what the 416 is for) also lots of wide open logging roads.

[exatak199]

Originally posted by BeeeRock!
you will need to jet it rich so when you hit the button it wont run lean and sieze

yaa I'll get the jetting right so that don't happen:D

[gojk]

I would look for a wet nitrous system. If you jet "right" with that system it will run bad except when you are on the bottle.

With the wet system you jet normally and then when you press the button it injects gas and nitrous making it alot safer.

[RAPTORAZ]

Originally posted by exatak199
from what I've heard the XR400 cam is about the same as the hot cams stage 1! (tell me if I'm wrong)
and a want more bottom to mid power cuz thew N.O.S. will take care of the top end:devil:


And no I do NOT do strate drag racing I plan on doing mx/tt (but not useing the noz that what the 416 is for) also lots of wide open logging roads.


Actually a nitrous oxide boosted engine will have its biggest gains in the lower RPM band. You'd be better off with a Stage 2 so you have more RPM to spread the additional power over.

[Smokin 440]

Correct me if im wrong, but the boondocker is a WET kit, and you won't have to rejet differently than if you wouldn't be running it b/c of the way its injected, before the carb forcing more fuel thru. I could be wrong, but i think thats how i read it on boondockers website. The boondocker kit is also supposed to be more reliable b/c it doesn't directly inject in the intake manifold like other kits that try to deep-freeze engine parts thus killing reliability. Someday i plan on gettin a boondocker, tell us how it turns out...

[gojk]

Looks like you are correct. I didn't look at the kit. I just assumed(and you know what that always leads too). Although it doesn't inject gas into the system, it is injected in the airbox. When it does inject it increases the pressure inside the float bowl causing the carb to deliver more fuel.

Quoted off of their site.


" After extensive testing, Rocky Young found it very difficult to get consistent results when injecting nitrous and fuel together in the conventional way (often resulting in engine damage). Then Rocky discovered that by injecting nitrous into the airbox, the engine consumed only the nitrous that was needed when it was needed, and by increasing pressure inside the carburetor float bowl at the same time, extra fuel could be delivered simultaneously. This was the only way he could produce consistent and reliable results using nitrous on a snowmobile - ventures into far off, hard to reach powder bowls could now be undertaken with confidence! Rejetting is not required, the extra fuel pump and fuel solenoid are eliminated, and the bottle heater can be eliminated (nitrous and fuel delivery both change with bottle pressure, so constant N20 pressure is not as critical). Rocky also discovered that when nitrous is sprayed from any conventional jet that is made from metal, N20 ice crystals are produced which can quickly damage an engine. Considerable time was spent researching and developing the Boondocker Nitrous system so it will disperse nitrous evenly and consistently without creating N20 ice crystals."

[exatak199]

Originally posted by RAPTORAZ
Actually a nitrous oxide boosted engine will have its biggest gains in the lower RPM band. You'd be better off with a Stage 2 so you have more RPM to spread the additional power over.

well your proly right but for when I'm not useing the nos I want good bottom end.


and I guess that I didnt read up on it at there site thanks for posting that gojk :)

:mad:

[set2crash67]

this is really off the subject but how did u make that air box lid? blue net and bolts .........i want one.

[exatak199]

Originally posted by set2crash67
this is really off the subject but how did u make that air box lid? blue net and bolts .........i want one.

umm that's not my bike it's just from there web site.


and my mistake Rico OI should have typed NITROUS:eek:

[jshtex]

Thanks Rico... I can't belive that some "no nothing" movie producers can mistakenly call something by the wrong name and you end up with all these people saying it that way.

Ofcourse since N.O.S. was a product placement sponsor they might have done it on purpose.

All I can say is upgrade the head studs. You will be running a lot higher cylinder preasure. And I personaly wouldn't trust that it wasn't running lean utill a dyno said so.

I have used nitrous on several cars over the last 20 years. See here for my latest http://www.cardomain.com/id/jshtex

[wilkin250r]

Originally posted by gojk
Looks like you are correct. I didn't look at the kit. I just assumed(and you know what that always leads too). Although it doesn't inject gas into the system, it is injected in the airbox. When it does inject it increases the pressure inside the float bowl causing the carb to deliver more fuel.

Quoted off of their site.


" After extensive testing, Rocky Young found it very difficult to get consistent results when injecting nitrous and fuel together in the conventional way (often resulting in engine damage). Then Rocky discovered that by injecting nitrous into the airbox, the engine consumed only the nitrous that was needed when it was needed, and by increasing pressure inside the carburetor float bowl at the same time, extra fuel could be delivered simultaneously. This was the only way he could produce consistent and reliable results using nitrous on a snowmobile - ventures into far off, hard to reach powder bowls could now be undertaken with confidence! Rejetting is not required, the extra fuel pump and fuel solenoid are eliminated, and the bottle heater can be eliminated (nitrous and fuel delivery both change with bottle pressure, so constant N20 pressure is not as critical). Rocky also discovered that when nitrous is sprayed from any conventional jet that is made from metal, N20 ice crystals are produced which can quickly damage an engine. Considerable time was spent researching and developing the Boondocker Nitrous system so it will disperse nitrous evenly and consistently without creating N20 ice crystals."

I'll admit, I haven't done the hands-on research, but this sounds like a bunch of BS. How in the world is injecting nitrous into the airbox going to increase pressure inside the float bowl?

If you pressurize the airbox, it will just de-pressurize through the top of the airbox (if you are running without the lid) or out the snorkel. It's like trying to pressurize one room in your house with all the windows and doors open. Even if you DO manage to pressurize the airbox and intake beyond normal atmospheric pressure, it will only increase enough to equalize, so you don't gain anything.

The only way to increase pressure in the float bowl is to DECREASE pressure through the intake, and the only way that will happen is to increase the speed of the air, which is controlled by the downward motion of the piston, not by the airbox.

[exatak199]

Originally posted by wilkin250r
I'll admit, I haven't done the hands-on research, but this sounds like a bunch of BS. How in the world is injecting nitrous into the airbox going to increase pressure inside the float bowl?

If you pressurize the airbox, it will just de-pressurize through the top of the airbox (if you are running without the lid) or out the snorkel. It's like trying to pressurize one room in your house with all the windows and doors open. Even if you DO manage to pressurize the airbox and intake beyond normal atmospheric pressure, it will only increase enough to equalize, so you don't gain anything.

The only way to increase pressure in the float bowl is to DECREASE pressure through the intake, and the only way that will happen is to increase the speed of the air, which is controlled by the downward motion of the piston, not by the airbox.


wilkin it injects the nitrous after the airfilter
shown here on a predator

http://www.boondockers.com/user/DW3.JPG

[Smokin 440]

I believe the nitrous might also be injected into the float bowl or something, if I didnt just spent my money i would buy it and try it. Does it work with fcr carbs???

[wilkin250r]

Originally posted by exatak199
wilkin it injects the nitrous after the airfilter
shown here on a predator


OK, I get it. For those that are still confused, I'll explain a little carburetor theory, and how the Boondockers nitrous system works.

When air is still, it exerts pressure outwards in all directions. When air is MOVING, it exerts more pressure in front of it, in the direction it is moving and LESS pressure on all sides. (perpendicular to the line of movement) This is how the fuel gets from the float bowl to the intake. Air is moving over the hole that leads down into the float bowl. Since this hole is perpendicular to the direction of the air flow, there is less pressure exerted.

The float bowl is at normal atmospheriic pressure, and the intake has less pressure (since the air is moving) This difference in pressure will cause fuel to flow UPWARDS into the moving air of the intake. To keep the float bowl at normal atmospheric pressure, it has vents to the outside air. This is where the Boondocker system comes in.

The Boondocker system has a special manifold for injecting nitrous. It has lines that connect to the vents that lead into the float bowl. When you hit the button, it pressurizes those lines, which then pressurizes the float bowl. Since the float bowl is pressurized MORE than normal, this creates a bigger pressure difference between the float bowl and the intake. More pressure equals more fuel. If you've read this whole thing, I'm suprised.

Any questions?