Oil Tank?

[hosted]

Today I changed the oil in my 400 for the first time, and I'm wondering if I messed something up. I just pulled on the rachet really hard not thinking of anything and the whole rubber part that it is in started spinning. Next thing I knew, oil was leaking out right below the tank in between where it comes together with the little rubbery dampener thing that it fits on and I end up pulling some rubber thing out that my bolt was screwed into. I was just wonerdering if this is really bad, an easy fix, or nothing to worry about. It doesn't seem like everything is in there very tight. Let me know if this isn't making any sense too, cause I don't know what I'm talking about!! Thanks

[Pappy]

there is a rubber cushion that mounts on a small tab on your frame. the oil tank slides into it and protects the drain stem. sounds like you loosened the drain bolt but didnt remove it fast enough and the oil spilled and then the bushing came out with the bolt. its not normal for that too happen and id suspect you may have torn it into 2 pieces. as long as the drain stem is protected ...the lower part of that bushing is of little concern

[ewalker302]

Yep same exact thing happened to me. You try to tighten the bolt & it just spins & never gets tighter, right??

The guy I bought my 400 from it from had done it.

It worked out b/c he thought the bike was using oil when it was just leaking there, so I got a cherry 99' on the cheap.

The rubber is just a bushing, it is not attatched to the threaded part that holds the drain plug, however it may be stuck to it because of heat/etc.....

Remove the rubber sleeve from the threaded part, it should slip out.

You have broken the threaded part off of the bottom of the oil tank by overtightening it.

For some reason Honda uses some type of adhesive/epoxy to fasten the threaded piece to the oil tank.

You have two choices:
1--Of course buy a new oil tank----prob $50+
2-- You can do what I did.

First the good news is it can be fixed, the tank and the part that got snapped off (the threaded part in the rubber mount that the drain plug threads into) are aluminum or an aluminum alloy.

Now you will have to take the tank & part to a machine/radiator shop, somewhere they can weld aluminum.

I think I got mine welded back at a radiator shop for like $10 the shop guy just did it while I waited, maybe 5 minutes.

Now after having it fixed you will probably have a fat weld attatching the theaded part to the tank.

Take a dremel tool, grind/taper/smooth the weld down some.

Ok now you will need to take a sharp knife & cut a taper in the rubber sleeve that the drain plug goes into to account for the weld material.

Thats it.

Sounds a lot harder to fix than it is.
Once you remove the tank you will see.
You could prob use some JB Weld or some type of epoxy, but I wouldnt trust it.

:bandit:

[Woodsrider]

I hope you were loosening the bolt and not trying to tighten it. Be very careful when reinstalling the drain bolt, that you don't over torque it. you could crack the tank.

[JOEX]

Hey soggy, did you get the right part number for the crush washers?

Joe

[hosted]

Yeah, I was loosening it. I will take the tank off tomorrow and look at it. I have a good friend that live just down the road that has a TIG and is always welding aluminum stuff for me. So do you mean weld all the way around that hole that the rubber part screws into, so that it tightens it up? I am not picturing it very well. It might be easier when I am looking at it though.

[JOEX]

When you take the tank out it will be obvious what soggyrider and ewalker are talking about, worst case scenario.

Where the drain plug screws into the bottom of the tank itself may have snapped off due to the tin foil the tanks are made of.

Is this a brand new quad?

Joe

[Woodsrider]

Originally posted by JOEX
Hey soggy, did you get the right part number for the crush washers?

Joe

Yes I did. Just never got around to posting it. Sorry. The P/N for the tank washer crosses over to the automotive side as well, and is still over a dollar each. Bucktwentynine I think. The cost is pretty much the same so I figured why post it. Unless you work at a Honda dealer your going to have to buy the correct washers for retail. I have been using a crush washer that is used on the brake lines at the caliper. Its getting to be hard to find them as well and I too will have to start buying the washers at a buck each:cuss:

Nice camera by the way:D

[JOEX]

Originally posted by soggyrider
Yes I did. Just never got around to posting it. Sorry. The P/N for the tank washer crosses over to the automotive side as well, and is still over a dollar each. Bucktwentynine I think. The cost is pretty much the same so I figured why post it. Unless you work at a Honda dealer your going to have to buy the correct washers for retail. I have been using a crush washer that is used on the brake lines at the caliper. Its getting to be hard to find them as well and I too will have to start buying the washers at a buck each:cuss:

Nice camera by the way:D
Bummer, that's alot of pennies......:(

You should still post it though. I bet 95% of the people don't know to replace them. Maybe they or a similar size can be found at a well equiped automotive store?

Joe

[Woodsrider]

Its quite possible that you could find them at a parts store. They're just an "aluminum sealing washer" P/N 94109-12000 is for the crankcase drain bolt, and P/N 90441-425-000 goes one the oil tank. The hole in the first washer is 12mm and the hole in the second one is 10mm.

It took a lot of digging and research buy my back counter parts people to find me the second one in an automotive application but they did it and it does cross over.

[JOEX]

Thanks, Mike.

Isn't the tank bolt bigger than the crankcase bolt?

Joe

[hosted]

No, it isn't new, it's a 2000. The tank didn't break, it was just the rubber part inside. I will look at it tomorrow and hopefully do that fix. I am going to watch ebay and see if I can pick a tank up for cheap too.

[JOEX]

Originally posted by hosted
No, it isn't new, it's a 2000. The tank didn't break, it was just the rubber part inside. I will look at it tomorrow and hopefully do that fix. I am going to watch ebay and see if I can pick a tank up for cheap too.
So you can screw the drain plug back in and tighten it with no problem?

Joe

[hosted]

I can screw the drain plug into it and tighten it, but the part that you screw it into is turning freely, and i was able to pull it out with ease. I pulled the part out that you screw the plug into and from there was able to take unscrew and tighted the drain plug from there. I will have to look at it again in the morning.

[RIDER11X]

That bolt is supposed to be torqued to 14FT/ LB. That is not much. Don't over do it or tank will break, underdo it and possibly lose your drainplug....blown motor!:(

[hosted]

Alright, I figured everything out today when I took the tank off. It looks like it will weld together with ease. Thanks for all your help! Does anyone know what the stock gears are too?

[Woodsrider]

Originally posted by JOEX
Thanks, Mike.

Isn't the tank bolt bigger than the crankcase bolt?

Joe

LOL You always ask me these questions when I've been drinking:p I am thinking that the head of the bolt on the tank in a 14mm but the shank of the bolt is 10mm. The bolt on the crankcase has a 12mm head and also a 12mm shank. I got all of that info from servicehonda, then ran the p/n through the automotive side and checked retail prices.

[Pappy]

just a tip....the 2002 and newer models have a reinforced oil tank. it may cost a bit more but buy new. if you buy a used tank you will have the same problem again.

[JOEX]

Originally posted by soggyrider
LOL You always ask me these questions when I've been drinking:p I am thinking that the head of the bolt on the tank in a 14mm but the shank of the bolt is 10mm. The bolt on the crankcase has a 12mm head and also a 12mm shank. I got all of that info from servicehonda, then ran the p/n through the automotive side and checked retail prices.
LOL! I'm usually drinking when i'm asking these questions!:p
I'm going to have to reread this this tomorrow:blah:

Hmmm, big head, small shaft; shaft and head same size.... wonder what's better:devil:

Joe

[JOEX]

Originally posted by Pappy
just a tip....the 2002 and newer models have a reinforced oil tank. it may cost a bit more but buy new. if you buy a used tank you will have the same problem again.
I was just about to ask you about that:p I remember you posting a pic of the reinforced tank but I didn't know what year that changed. Thanks;)

Joe