help fasttt on ball joints

[fasterz]

ok well i read this in the faq.. "Method 1; remove the cotter pins, and put a socket between the joints (see attached picture) back one of the nuts off until it pushes the ball-joint stud out of the arm.. you may have to use some washers to take up the space between the nuts and socket.."

i dont understand it.. i cant freakin get my lower arm off the spindal and i have to do it asap

can ne one tell me how to do it

[416mx]

Take a hammer and hit the edge of the spindle on the back side , hold up on the arms while doing this , it will fall right out , may have to hit it more than once. It will dint the alum a little but it won't hurt anything.:p

[JOEX]

Don't just hit and think it will come loose. There needs to be pressure applied to the stud as the spindle is being hit, not a 'hard' hit either.

I used the socket method myself but I don't remember exactly what I did:p If you have a manual, look at the pics of the tool they use and try to mimic it with a socket. Wish I could be more help but i'd have to be there to explain:(

Joe

[300exOH]

First loosten the castle nuts until they are flush with the end of the bolt. Then put one socket over the lower bolt and put the other upside down against the other nut. When you loosten the the one it will push against the socket and pop it loose. You will then have to switch them around to pop the other one loose. You are basically using one bolt to push the other out. YOu'll have to crank them against each other pretty good for them to pop loose. The sockets are just a spacer between the two castle nuts. You may have to play around with different length sockets to find ones to fit. Hope this helps some.

[FFW]

Why bother with sockets and odd methods such as that? Just go to your local parts store and purchase a ball joint separator. I replaced both upper and lowers last night and it took 2 hard whacks with a mallet and they separated with no damage to anything, not even the boots.

Granted I have owned the BJS for many years but it came in handy last night.


:)

[Woodsrider]

My method is to preload the suspension, at the hub. Place a large prybar between the lower arm and the spindal and pry. I use this method on everything from my quad to MDX ball joints. The only thing I change is the length of the pry bar. The one I use on cars is 5 feet long;)

[JOEX]

Originally posted by 300exOH
First loosten the castle nuts until they are flush with the end of the bolt. Then put one socket over the lower bolt and put the other upside down against the other nut. When you loosten the the one it will push against the socket and pop it loose. You will then have to switch them around to pop the other one loose. You are basically using one bolt to push the other out. YOu'll have to crank them against each other pretty good for them to pop loose. The sockets are just a spacer between the two castle nuts. You may have to play around with different length sockets to find ones to fit. Hope this helps some.
You explained it pretty well:) I did it using just one socket, your method sounds like a better one;) I bet it is still confusing to those that have limited experience though:p

Once you get some good pressure on the studs a slight whack with a hammer should break it loose.

FFW, Where the heck were you a couple of months ago? LOL!

Joe

[JOEX]

Originally posted by soggyrider
My method is to preload the suspension, at the hub. Place a large prybar between the lower arm and the spindal and pry. I use this method on everything from my quad to MDX ball joints. The only thing I change is the length of the pry bar. The one I use on cars is 5 feet long;)
This is a new one for me, but that's not saying much:p
Where do you place the pry bar? What pivot points?

Joe

[foleyit]

Don't just whack it! I was impatient and dis-assembly took place late at night or was it morning. Either way I was determined to take them off and nothing was open. Except for my Bud Light. That should explain some of the backyard mechanic techniques below. It worked for me.

I was able to remove mine off by leaving the front tires on the spindle. Assuming that you have already removed your shocks. Place some blocks underneath your front tires. If you don't have a mallet and only a hammer give your spindle some gentle taps. It should loosen the ball joint bolts from the a-arms. If you need to put pressure on the arms I placed a 2x4 across the a-arms and hit the 2x4 with a hammer don't hit it with full force. Tap and work your way up if needed.

[Woodsrider]

Originally posted by JOEX
This is a new one for me, but that's not saying much:p
Where do you place the pry bar? What pivot points?

Joe

The pry bar I use on the quad is 30 inches long, and has a tip that is angled at about 40*. The angled tip is about two inches long, place the tip of the bar under the lip of the spindle, and the pivot point is rested on the lower arm. With the suspension compressed, the shock is pushing down on the lower arm, adding to the pressure that breaks the joint loose. Just pry the joint free from the spindle. Piece of cake;)

[300exOH]

Originally posted by soggyrider
The pry bar I use on the quad is 30 inches long, and has a tip that is angled at about 40*. The angled tip is about two inches long, place the tip of the bar under the lip of the spindle, and the pivot point is rested on the lower arm. With the suspension compressed, the shock is pushing down on the lower arm, adding to the pressure that breaks the joint loose. Just pry the joint free from the spindle. Piece of cake;)

Good idea... But how do you break the upper ones loose?

[Woodsrider]

Originally posted by 300exOH
Good idea... But how do you break the upper ones loose?


Same basic principal, you just don't get the added help of the compressed suspension to help. And it's a little harder to find a spot to pry against. Do the uppers first, leave it in the spindal then do the bottoms.

[FFW]

Originally posted by JOEX
You explained it pretty well:) I did it using just one socket, your method sounds like a better one;) I bet it is still confusing to those that have limited experience though:p

Once you get some good pressure on the studs a slight whack with a hammer should break it loose.

FFW, Where the heck were you a couple of months ago? LOL!

Joe

I forgot about this topic:)

Did it finally get resolved?

Not that it matters but I did the complete swap of the uppers/lowers and shocks in 45 minutes and that included a trip or two to the tool box to grab needle nose pliers. My trusty separator makes the job take about 20 seconds at most for all 4 of the joints.


Hey JoeX..Sorry! Didn't see the topic! Next time be sure to ask me months in advance!
:blah: