Questions on Stripping EVERYTHING!!

[Jay300ex]

Being to the point for the guys that have stripped their quads for PC before, what order did you go upon taking stuff off?

I am almost done with mine, but I am just curious on how others have done it. I started with the plastics, mounts, and any mud guards. Then did bumper, skid plates, gas tank, exhaust, grab bar, and air box. Then I took off my tie rods.

Next I am going to take my wiring off, then proceed to remove the swingarm pivot bolt and upper rear shock mount ( so I can take the chain off without breaking it ). Then the engine will come out, handle bars, front wheels, brakes, A-arms, shocks and so on.

Another question is at the point, those little tabs that hold wires, cables, or those rubber mud guards in place, I have to break those off right? Because getting it PC with those on will only crack the PC if I bend them during reassembly right? So twist ties should hold the wires and cables, but what about like, those little tabs that hold that rubber guard under the hood in place? Kinda stumed there right now any ideas guys?

[Woodsrider]

those little tabs that hold wires, cables, or those rubber mud guards in place, I have to break those off right? Because getting it PC with those on will only crack the PC if I bend them during reassembly right?

I would say they should be fine if its just a single coat pc job. The cured coating is very plyable.

[Jay300ex]

You think so? If that is so I would probably bend them in as much as possible to fit the wires through and bend them closed. It just seems that PC is hard and brittle so it would break and cause rust. I am not sure if it is going to be a single coat or not, I am taking my quad apart and a friend's, and his dad is doing the PC for free so since it is his son's and mine ( I have known him for years ) he probably will make it a good thick coat.

Anyone else have info?

[Pappy]

the plastic tabs are removable...dont just break them off. and if the frame is fully cured they will be a melted mess when its done.

[Jay300ex]

Originally posted by Pappy
the plastic tabs are removable...dont just break them off. and if the frame is fully cured they will be a melted mess when its done.

Oh those tabs are plastic? I thought they were just a light metal haha. How do you put them back on after you are done, if that's possible?

Jay

[JabberJaw]

Feel free to let us know how your gal strips also.

[Jay300ex]

Originally posted by JabberJaw
Feel free to let us know how your gal strips also.

You want an adjective? Hmm... quickly :blah:

[Pappy]

there are 3 or 4 plastic wire retaining tabs on the frame that can be removed. the metal wire straps remain on the quad.

[Jay300ex]

Originally posted by Pappy
there are 3 or 4 plastic wire retaining tabs on the frame that can be removed. the metal wire straps remain on the quad.

Ok. There are no plastic tabs on my frame, atleast I don't find any. The metal wire straps are there, there are a bunch of them, that was what I was wondering about, you know how you bend them in and out to get the wires through, should powder coat just crack and break if I tried bending them after the job is done? Should I just remove them and use zipties where possible? There are also some really really thin metal straps/tabs, is that what you think is plastic? Those would be hard to synthesize I would thing. But Pap should know your the pimp daddeo of PC in this house

[Woodsrider]

The metal wire looking straps stay on. They will be fine.

[Jay300ex]

So these can stay on?

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid93/pa3c9ee27a7a4b0913fcbd63b1f4c5960/fa51c196.jpg

Oh, and how do these things come out ?

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid93/p75536aa50e8e356dbd8bbe622ccfe014/fa51c18f.jpg

[markk]

I just took mine down a couple of weeks ago and i stared with my plastic, gas tank, then i stared on my wiring, undid my subframe a little pulled my harnes threw there, then took the front end apart, then pulled off the swing arm, pulled the tires, then i pulled my motor.

Tap up your frame real good when u put stuff back togeather, that way u dont screw anything up! becarful, and take your time going back togeather

[Woodsrider]

The stuff in the top pic stays on. The rubber bushings in the bottom pic will come out with silicone spray, or WD-40. If you look the bottom is not as tall as the top. Spray the bushing down with silicone spray and work the thinner part through the hole toward the thicker part. reinstall in the reverse order.

Markk is right, after you get it back from the powdercoater you need to run a tap through all the threads to remove any cured powder or sand that may be in the threads. Also make a mental note of where any grounds (electrical) are at on the frame/subframe. you may need to sand them back down after its PC'd, in order to get a good path to ground for the electrical system.

[Mofo Racing]

good luck im going through the teardown for the powdercoating. I hope you have better luck with your swingarm bolt Its a pain in the butt

[Jay300ex]

Originally posted by soggyrider
The stuff in the top pic stays on. The rubber bushings in the bottom pic will come out with silicone spray, or WD-40. If you look the bottom is not as tall as the top. Spray the bushing down with silicone spray and work the thinner part through the hole toward the thicker part. reinstall in the reverse order.

Markk is right, after you get it back from the powdercoater you need to run a tap through all the threads to remove any cured powder or sand that may be in the threads. Also make a mental note of where any grounds (electrical) are at on the frame/subframe. you may need to sand them back down after its PC'd, in order to get a good path to ground for the electrical system.

Cool thanks! Yea I was forgetting about taping the threads, but I would have done it because .. well... duh right? I will probably also tape some thin cardboard or something around the frame when my engine goes back in.

Something I just thought of is with bearings, like the spherical bearings in the a-arms, do those need to be removed? If I didn't would they just seize up when they are heated? I don't think there are any rubber pieces on them, but the clips the hold them in might not come out after the process, any word on that?

Jay

[Jay300ex]

Originally posted by Mofo Racing
good luck im going through the teardown for the powdercoating. I hope you have better luck with your swingarm bolt Its a pain in the butt

I was rather lucky with that one, I hit it up with a low setting on my air impact for a little bit, no budge. I don't have that size impact driver so I didn't want it to shatter the good drivers. So I took the breaker bar and cracked it, then impacted it again, ziiip came right off. Suprisingly enough the shaft slid right out from the other side.

[markk]

When u put your swingarm and eveything back togeather, make sureu grease it up real real good that way when or if u take it off again its not so hard! GOod luck

[Jay300ex]

Originally posted by markk
When u put your swingarm and eveything back togeather, make sureu grease it up real real good that way when or if u take it off again its not so hard! GOod luck

You mean the pivot bolt right? Yea I know I have to do that, just at work last week I was taking one out of a dirtbike and it was so siezed in there that I had to heat itup, and ended up melting some of the swingharm :( Always grease that thing good lol.

Jay

[Ralph]

if u bring it to a good place they will put plugs into any threads that may get powder in them

[Woodsrider]

Originally posted by Ralph
if u bring it to a good place they will put plugs into any threads that may get powder in them

True, but Ill bet dollars to doughnuts that the sandblaster wont plug the threaded holes. I know I don't. If the plug comes out in the sandblast cabinet it goes right down into the hopper to be picked up and clog the gun.

[Ralph]

sand can be blown out with an aircompressor, but powdercoat can...