330 wont start!!!

[Out_Sider]

ok..we put everything together correctly..its getting gas...so our only question now is "Is it timed correctly?"... b4 we put the valve cover on..i put it on top dead center (which is that little mark at the top the fly wheel..right? but what are those other marks near the bottom of the fly wheel??) and when it was on top dead center and we went to put the valve cover on...there was pressure and it wouldnt go on..but then if i turned the crank some..the cover went right on.....but then we tried to start it and it doesnt do anything...it turns over but nothing happens...and it shoots blueish air out of the airfilter??? i just want to know whats wrong and what can we do to fix it?? its really starting to make us wonder if this was a waste of money.. :cuss:

[Out_Sider]

wtf? nobody knows whats wrong:huh

[dork]

when you put the cam chain on at tdc the cam lobes should have been pointing down. when you put the cam sprocket on there's one mark that should be at 12:00 and two marks that line up with the cyl. head at 3:00 and 9:00.

there are three other marks on the flywheel. the F mark is for checking the timing at 1400 rpm, it should align with the index mark through the inspection hole. then there are two marks close together. these are the advance marks. the index mark should be between these at 3250 rpm. to time the cam you need to be on the T mark which is tdc.

[stupid driver]

lobes down, and there should be 3 marks on the cam sprocket. one should be pointing strait up, the other two should be flush w/ the cylinder head. This is all while the notches on the flywheel are lined up. You may have to look closely w/ a flashlight to see the correct notch on the flywheel.

[Out_Sider]

aight when you say lobes down u mean like..both of them down..becuz i thought that 1 was always pointing upward..maybe im wrong...i'll look at it again in the morning. thanx for the replies tho..i thought i was gonna have to guessitmate...:eek2: ..lol

[stupid driver]

all the lobes on the cam should be pointing down.

[thursday]

look at your fuse if the 2 pieces of metal are not touching inside the fuse then its popped i have had this problem when i got some engine work done check that out.

[Out_Sider]

Originally posted by dork
when you put the cam chain on at tdc the cam lobes should have been pointing down. when you put the cam sprocket on there's one mark that should be at 12:00 and two marks that line up with the cyl. head at 3:00 and 9:00.

there are three other marks on the flywheel. the F mark is for checking the timing at 1400 rpm, it should align with the index mark through the inspection hole. then there are two marks close together. these are the advance marks. the index mark should be between these at 3250 rpm. to time the cam you need to be on the T mark which is tdc.

Thanx dude, thats was exactly what i was wanting to know! ;)

but one question..what do you mean when u say the T mark? i thought the tdc mark was just a little marking at the top of the flywheel? am i correct on this?

[cals400ex]

yes, the tdc mark is on the flywheel. it is a notch on the flywheel with a "T" right next to it. this "T" indicates top dead center.

[muff]

Originally posted by dork
when you put the cam chain on at tdc the cam lobes should have been pointing down. when you put the cam sprocket on there's one mark that should be at 12:00 and two marks that line up with the cyl. head at 3:00 and 9:00.

there are three other marks on the flywheel. the F mark is for checking the timing at 1400 rpm, it should align with the index mark through the inspection hole. then there are two marks close together. these are the advance marks. the index mark should be between these at 3250 rpm. to time the cam you need to be on the T mark which is tdc.

dork has it correct, every other time the flywheel is on tdc the lobes on the cam will be down

so in other words the flywheel may say tdc, but the cam lobes could be up which would resist the top cover from being bolted down

[Aceman]

Hey, I just installed Profab's 330 kit also and just fired it up tonight. It helps if you take the spark plug out to rotate the crankshaft to tdc then stick the cam in lobes down. Make sure you check you valve clearance also. Seems like the compression is too much for my starter though (cranks over pretty hard).

[Out_Sider]

well i got the 11:1 kit, so mine doesnt really have any trouble..but isnt the valve clearence like .005 for the intake, and like .004 for the exhaust? or do i have it backwards? we are putting it and gonna try and crank it tomarrow since i was busy all day today..video games are addicting:p..anyway thanks for the replies and i'll update yall on how it cranks and what not.

[Aceman]

I also have the 11-1 kit and the valve clearance is .004 in/ex both.

[Out_Sider]

once we had it timed correctly it started right up...and it turns out the jetting in the 400ex carb is about right..155main and 45pilot..i believe it needs a smaller pilot for sure tho because it would go from idle and just rev up on its own. And i think heat is gonna be a factor also because when we would just let it sit in one spot w/out moving the header would start to turn a little red. But as long as i keep it moving it stays normal. The good ole DMC sounds just as good as ever with the bore kit. BTW i rode it around the field a little bit with just the rear plastic on, and that thing just RIPS! Theres sooo much more power on tap than it used to have..im running 14/38 gearing and it just wont keep the front end down! i might have to get a 36 rear sprocket when i get my new rear tires..(i have 22s and im getting 20s) But i reccomend this to anyone that wants to boost up the power of thier 300ex! :D

[sparky450AR]

Originally posted by Out_Sider
once we had it timed correctly it started right up...and it turns out the jetting in the 400ex carb is about right..155main and 45pilot..i believe it needs a smaller pilot for sure tho because it would go from idle and just rev up on its own. And i think heat is gonna be a factor also because when we would just let it sit in one spot w/out moving the header would start to turn a little red. But as long as i keep it moving it stays normal. The good ole DMC sounds just as good as ever with the bore kit. BTW i rode it around the field a little bit with just the rear plastic on, and that thing just RIPS! Theres sooo much more power on tap than it used to have..im running 14/38 gearing and it just wont keep the front end down! i might have to get a 36 rear sprocket when i get my new rear tires..(i have 22s and im getting 20s) But i reccomend this to anyone that wants to boost up the power of thier 300ex! :D


hey man i think i have the same kit you do, the 1300 dollar one from pro fab.....scott told me to put in a jagg oil cooler, i did and it runs very cool. Yes your pilot needs to be at about 42, thats what mines at and it still revs up a little but it has so much compression that it has to have a litttle higher rpm at idle or else it wont run.


good luck, you will love it!

[Out_Sider]

well i didnt get the 1300 kit. we got the 300$ kit..so i dont have an oil cooler or the port/polish..but dad said that next summer we will get the cooler put on and get it ported/and polished. i got the 11:1 kit, that doesnt need an oil cooler, but i think in the hot summer months that we will need one. But i guess you could say i pretty much got the 1300 kit just w/ out the cooler and port/polish because of all the other head mods that we already had done.

[TRX300X]

If you want it to pull even harder get a 350X air intake boot and take the lid off the air box and rejet. Doing this really complements the kit. I have the 330 kit in my 250X which makes it a 288 and nobody seems to believe me that my enigne is only a 288, espically when I can hang with raptors in the holeshot :D