FCR fuel screw......HELP!

[Bad Habit]

I was just trying to install one of those fuel screws from C&D. I finally got the bottom cover opened up to let the fuel screw pass through it and now the knob on the screw is hitting the hex part of the main jet cap. I turned the cap so a flat was lined up with the fuel screw knob, but now the knob bottoms out on the flange of the cap before the screw bottoms out in the carb. The fuel screw needs to be approx 1 1/2 turns out just to have enough room for the cap flange to squeeze under it. I know that the screw needs to be at least 1 1/2 to 2 turns out for proper adjustment, but it seems that this is going to dramatically limit the fine tuning that I purchased the screw for in the first place.

What can be done???? Dremel down the thickness of the screw knob? Dremel down the main cap?

Need help pleeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeze.:(

[dhines]

Two things you might want to look at:

1. Are you sure you got everything back into the hole on top of the screw - o-ring, washer, and spring - if I remember the setup correctly?

2. If you are cool on #1, just mark the main jet cap where it touches and grind it off enough for it to fit. Just make sure you dont grind it to a point where the o-ring won't seal. Or, yeah you can also grind down the screw a little.

I've installed three of them now and the only problems I had was having to drill out the hole a bit in the float bowl and having to make sure the main jet cap wasa turned the right way. Make sure you're cool on #1 above.

Out

[Taco]

I never realized the FCR carb needed this many mods just to make the fuel screw work just so you can fine tune the SOB:huh

[dhines]

This is for the installation of the aftermarket fuel screw that allows you to easily adjust the circuit without taking the carb off. The install really wasn't that bad for me - less than 15 minutes really.

[Taco]

Yea but still i thought you just removed the screw and put the new one in.

[Bad Habit]

Originally posted by Taco
Yea but still i thought you just removed the screw and put the new one in.

Ya, that's what I thought also. A little bit of "customizing" is to be expected, but not this much. I honestly think mine is about 2mm shorter than what it should be. Or the carb body casting is a little longer than most.

[dhines]

Yeah, you're right. It is still a bit frustrating that it is not completely straight-forward - but then how many aftermarket add-ons are?

Actually, when we put the extended fuel screw on my dad's new YFZ, it went right on - no adjustments required. I guess Yamaha's really are better! :confused: :devil: :blah:

[Bad Habit]

Well, my crossbar pad went right on without modification, but I think that's the only thing.:D

[lilpoppy]

My fuel screw went right in with no mods at all. What exactily are you guys grinding?

[stupid driver]

i think they are grinding that cap that goes under the main jet. The one where you can just take it off w/ a socket and get to the main jet. I hope i dont have to grind anything on mine, i just ordered one the other day :ermm: :ermm:

[dhines]

The only thing I had to do was to take a drill bit and slightly expand the hole that the screw goes into.

Originally posted by dhines
I guess Yamaha's really are better! :confused: :devil: :blah:

This is your first warning before being banned. NO more talk like that on this page... :grr:

[dhines]

Originally posted by Rico
I'm with you Big Daddy - Honda's suck!!!

Uh oh! Is Rico going Blue??? :blah:

[Bad Habit]

OK, here's a visual of what I had to do incase someone else runs into the same problem. You can see that I had to grind down the top of the knob approx 1-2mm to get enough clearance. Also, a 15/64 drill bit might be needed to clean up the hole in the bowl to allow the threads of the fuel screw to pass through it.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid75/p0b5b538cd4ec759cc18c71ed3c7a5e7e/fb4fca35.jpg