Re-torquing head studs??

[Glamis400ex]

As a few of you know, I did a 416 a little while ago. I ended up replacing all the studs as well. Well I have a few hours on the break in and was told by C&D Racing that using the flexsteel head gasket, I wont need to re-torque. Just set the correct torque and that's it.

Here's where it gets interesting...I have the rocker cover off because I'm adding the Jegs cooler, so I figured I would test the studs to see if the loosened up. Well, you can only access the intake and exhaust bolts so I set the torque wrench to 33 ft/bls. and gave the intake side spin....still pretty tight. Popped @ 33ft/lbs.

Now, I went to the exhaust stud and set it at 30 ft/bls. first and it spun easy. I set it to 33 and it spun another1/2 turn and then the wrench finally popped. I finshed her off at 35 ft/lbs.

Anyone else have the prob with needing to re-torque a flexsteel gasket??

Glamis

[bandit390]

What do you mean by flexsteel gasket?

Is a stainless steel comectic gasket a "flexsteel"?

I replaced mine with that gasket and it blew again after 5 months of little riding, but I never took it apart to retorque them.

[Glamis400ex]

Yes, I believe thats the one...it was Cometic. C&D Racing says re-torquing ins't needed with these gaskets, that's why I spent the extra and bought it.... but mine was not tight at all.

I only have 3-4 hours on mine...:ermm:

Glamis

[bandit390]

Thats why I think just a gasket will never help. I sent my cylinder in to sparks a while ago to get the bigger stud kit for it. I will be putting the same gasket back on.

OEM gaskets and copper gasket sealant in an aerosol can is the only way to go

[Glamis400ex]

copper sealant was also used. I'm not saying the gasket leaked, I'm merely stating the exhaust stud/nut was loose...The new design of those is supposed to eliminate the need to re-torque after a break-in period.

Glamis

[cals400ex]

well crap, i just ordered that gasket kit so i did not have to take it apart so i could save myself the hassle after break-in. i guess i can let you know if i have any problems when i get mine in. dang, i don't want to take it back apart to check though.

[Glamis400ex]

I hear ya Cals400ex,

Dune Surfr had to do the same thing. I've called Sparks and they say it's only the exhaust side stud that comes loose...dunno why tho..:confused:

Maybe Colby or Dusty could clear this up for us.

Glamis

[nakomis0]

I figured you should re torque that gasket anyways. They try and make it so you dont have to re torque, but looks like it dont do the job as good as it needs.

I'm thinking still that 'hopefully' it will hold the torque and retorque, better than the normal gaskets do.

[Colby@C&DRacing]

Out of all the motors that i have built using the steel gaskets I have never had one that needed retorqued. I also never use copper sealant on a steel gasket. When you use sealant on a gasket that does not require it, It takes up space and when it breaks down, on the exhaust side due to the extra heat on that side of the head you will loose torque. It is not the gasket that shrunk it was the sealant that you put in. Another problem I find is with the machine shop when they bore the cylinder they do not use a torgue plate to keep the cylinder from warping from the heat, if this happens the mating surfaces are not true and the gasket is not at fault.

[Glamis400ex]

Thanks Colby,
That actually makes sence. Tony and I did mine and he said to use it so we did.

I snugged the exhaust stud back down to 35...do you think this will keep repeating itself? I did notice where the head mates to the cylinder, after I rode it for a little while, I did see some oozing off the copper sealant...no oil leak tho, so I understand what you are saying in that reguard. I have a feeling it should stay put this time, since a little cooper oozed out and that "gap" is no longer there.

Will I cause any trouble if I snug that baby down to like 40 just to keep it from coming loose again?

Glamis

Originally posted by Colby@C&DRacing
Another problem I find is with the machine shop when they bore the cylinder they do not use a torgue plate to keep the cylinder from warping from the heat, if this happens the mating surfaces are not true and the gasket is not at fault. my engine builder told me about this also...when i ahd problems with my head gasket blowing..i finly took my cytlinder and head to them to have them check it for warpage..they said it was fine....and they also told me if the cylinder was not true with the rest of the head...it could cause a leak in the head gasket....but they checked that also and it was fine

[StreetLegalEX]

I have some dude who fixed my quad last time.
My engine head a head-leakage shortly after repair(AGAIN)....took it all apart myself and noticed that my exhaust nut was loose.
I also found my head-gasket to be fine, it just leaked air between gasket and head.

Now when I talk to him about retorquing the stud/bolts he says you absolutely shouldn't do that because of the stretchbolts, they will break if you retorque them?????

Please does anybody have any comment on this? (I dont want to have an airleak for the 3d time in 3months!)

Also my local shop says you should ALWAYS retorque :confused: